I thought it useful to document the (almost) full breakdown, fettle and re-assembly of this Australia-made Gloria 400. As it came (it actually came without the glass). Dismantling the Gloria 400 [Note: some of the photos used in this disassembly sequence were taken during re-assembly] With the glass removed, and using two 5mm boards, the lamp can sit on the bench with the burner clear of the surface. 1. Remove the pump, the non-return valve (NRV) locking bolt, and the NRV : Penetrating oil (Penetrene) and a big socket wrench was required. The NRV pulls out with the spring. 2. Remove the fuel line from the tank to the fuel control block. 3. Remove the (numerous) nuts, washers, sleeve, and bolt that: a. affixes the hanging shackle; and b. affixes the hood. Keep the inner and outer chimneys locked together. 4. Remove the fuel tank. 5. Remove the outer chimney. 6. Unscrew the packing nut and the pricker/control mechanism. Look after the pricker needle! 7. Unscrew the locking nut on the vapouriser. It is a good idea to grip the control block with an adjustable spanner to stop it twisting while unscrewing the locking nut. Remove the vapouriser. Take off the fuel control block. 8. Take off the hinged reflector, and remove the lower shroud. Take care not to damage the flame spreader/nozzle. 9. Take the flame spreader/nozzle from the burner tube, and take the burner tube out. This may require unscrewing the cast brass block attached to the outside in the inner chimney if the burner tube is stuck tight. You will end up with this: Top left to right: hood; outer chimney; fuel tank. Bottom left to right: outer shroud; inner chimney; reflector. Working from the top left to right and working down: NRV and spring; vapouriser; fuel line; reflector hinge bolt; pump; flame spreader/nozzle; hanging shackle; pump; fuel control block nuts, washers bolts (various); control spindle and pricker; NRV retaining bolt; spacers; burner tube; cast block fitting for burner tube. [Note that the centre bolt holding the inner and outer chimneys and hood together is not in this photo] Cleaning and preparation Fortunately this lamp, while a bit dirty, was in quite good condition. I wanted to keep it as close to found as possible so I cleaned it up with car cleaner. Where the enamel had been lost, I treated the rust with "stove black": The steel nuts and bolts were given a bath in "Evaporust". I cleaned the paintwork on the tank with kerosene, then waxed the tank with beeswax. The only washer needing replacing was the pip in the NRV which I made from 4mm thick Viton. The tank cap and the NRV retaining bolt had good lead washers. Re-assembly NOTE: All threads were greased with high temperature nickel grease 1. Replace the cast brass fitting to the inner hood and refit the burner tube, and set aside: The nickel grease is easily wiped off the enamel. 2. Re-fit the bolts and nuts to the lower shroud in the correct order: NOTE: I made washers from engine gasket to sit against the steel and enamel work. 3. Attach the outer hood to the lower shroud: 4. Attach the fuel tank: 4. Refit the NRV: 5. Refit the pump: NOTE: This is fitted with a Coleman leather cup. 6. Fit the flame spreader/nozzle to the burner tube and find a pot or similar to sit the inner hood on so that the flame spreader does not get damaged. Place the outer fittings onto the inner chimney: Don't fit the bolt yet, until the vapouriser and fuel control is set and adjusted. 7. Fit the vapouriser and lock it tightly to the fuel control block. Make sure the doors on the inner chimney and the outer shroud function properly. It is advisable to use an adjustable wrench to hold the fuel block while tightening the locking nut on the vapouriser. 8. Refit the fuel control mechanism and pricker. 9. Reconnect the fuel line. I've reached the limit on photos... stand by for more...
Re-assembly continued... 10. Now fit the centre bolt through the inner and outer chimneys, making sure the nuts go back on in the correct order; and fit the hood, and hanging shackle, making sure the shackle can rotate freely on the spacer that is placed over the bolt. 11. Testing time. I use a Tilley lighting torch. Low pressure bunsen flame. Higher pressure bunsen flame. Burning on a Petromax 500cp mantle. First light. 12. Fit reflector. Fit glass. All in all, just excellent! Cheers Tony This lamp is in the Reference Gallery here: Gloria 400 (Australia)
Well done Tony. The old girl is running well. Thanks for the wonderful write up and for sharing your success. Cheers, Norman
Thank you Tony, your efforts are much appreciated. I would love to set my hands on one of these stately doughnut lamps one day.