Here is the EX100 that I have just fettled (the before photos will be at the bottom of the post): As found: The pump cap was damaged, so I replaced it with one that fitted, but was not quite the same: Fettling was reasonably straightforward (except for the solder, which I will link to later. A new vapouriser was required: The pump reassembled: The Tilley reflector came from a Kayen Lamp: Here it is, lit up and running on my verandah at early dusk:
The tank is brass (as is the bail); and it was the original paint in the "before" photo (I checked underneath). I tried to rematched it as best I could: the colour is almost right - except for the gloss!. Cheers Tony
Tony, some questions, if I may please: * Copper wire is o.k. to hold the glass on the EX100 ? * Copper wire from Jaycar ? * Gauge ? The standard stuff used for winding coils, for example, for crystal sets ? I do have some gal. wire, used for lashing wire mesh fencing to frames and gates. * Could you describe the tool used to hold the wires as you twist them together in the drill ? In another repair you did, to a Svea stove I think, you threaded brass tube internally 7/16" x 26 tpi. How did you hold the tube whilst tapping, without damaging or crushing the tube ? I have threaded much 1/2" brass tube at a factory in days past, but that was external threading, and the tubes were curved, so quite easy to hold in a fixture without them turning during the tapping process. ( We only tapped the end or straight section of tube for a short distance ). Spouts for kitchen taps etc. Thanks for your time and patience. Paul.
Paul I’ve used both brass and galvanised wire in the past to make the globe brackets. I’ll check the gauge in the morning. I can’t see why copper won’t work, but the original would have been steel. I’ve wound them by hand holding the end in a vise; with pliers, holding the end in a vise; and also with a slow drill. If the wire is not too stiff, using your hands is fine. There is a special tool you can buy to twist wire, but there’s really no need. To do an internal thread in brass tubing I would, if possible use a piece much longer than needed, internally fit a steel rod that sits snugly inside, then clamp that end between two halves of a piece of wood that has been drilled to the outside diameter of the tube and sawn through the hole. It’s easier to do on a lathe, but I don’t have one. Cheers Tony @Paul Aslanides
The piece of wood Tony is talking about I assume would be like this. Best to use a soft wood like pine, poplar or cedar. Drill the hole first, cut to length then cut down the centre of the hole. The blade thickness is the gap create the grip. Have the grain going the same way as the one in the pic so the timber can compress that little bit. I like to drill the hole a tiny bit smaller so the shoulders hold the most. The thicker the timber the more the load is distributed. I mark how they go together so the hole lines up. I keep several sizes close to the vise and replace them often. Cheap, easy and they work.
