Hi there. I have just found the lamp and it is in good condition after a citric bath!. Only missing the very very top lid. Never attempted a restoration on a lamp but want to. Can the inner hood be painted with heat resistant paint at all? I can upload pics later when back in
Hello and welcome, a question often asked, a topic much discussed, have a read here: High Temperature Paint
I'm certain we'd all like to see some photos when you have time. As Henry says, heat proof paint suitable for painting hoods is a subject that often comes up and the answer is, no there isn't as the temperatures in the hood are simply way too high - over 1000c. Lantern hoods either use vitreous enamel in various colours or electro-plating, mainly chrome but sometimes nickel. On YouTube you may find videos of people 'restoring' old pressure lanterns and a few of them sand blast the enamel off hoods and spray them with regular paint. Strangely you seldom see them lighting the finished lamp or if they do they turn the video off before the paint begins to bubble and burn. May I ask why you want to spray the inner hood? It's not visible when in use and it gets hotter than the outer hood!
You are pro 100% right about spraying something inside! I just like to do as much as I can sort of thing? Within my ability anyway! Pictures as promised. The base has some nickle which has come off after rusting and shows the brass. Other than that looks in good nic
It looks like there may be a few pieces missing under the hood. Specifically the parts that hold the J tube in the correct position but I'm sure you'll find them easily online.
I have the tube that holds the j tube thanks. Just worried about trying to light the thing when assembled. Prob do it outside!
Good call on trying it outside first, when they light correctly they are amazing; when they don’t light correctly they are spectacular.
Hello @Richard Guilliatt , i also hope, your first lighting gets successfull! The piece and the screw holding the J-Tube, while lamp running more and more, over the time mostly gets loose and the gap between nozzle an J-Tube gets to small. Then every time you correct the position and fasten the screw, the J-Tube gets pressed flat ... and flater ... and so damaged. I read an idea in an German forum and adapted it in my way with a piece of a cupper tube. This prevents the J-Tube from moving downside, also if the screw that hilds it is loosen. See attached photos. Just to give you an idea. And sorry about my poor Englich ... i hope you undestand, what i want to say ;-) Regards, Steven
Just to be clear: the screw shown is not the same as the clamping screw of the text. The screw in the picture is the mix paddle screw. To fine tune the light output.
Any common VHT paints on the market would just get burnt, flake off or crumble if it is used on the inner hood. The inner hood is exposed to a very hot and oxidizing atmosphere. I often find them to be badly corroded. In one or two of my Petromax or clones, I've coated the inner hood with a high temperature, ceramic-like stuff. It is not exactly a paint but works pretty well in reducing the adverse effects of high temp oxidation. It was water-based and made of purely inorganic materials: aluminium oxide, some metakaolin and some sodium or potassium silicate as binder. It required firing at red heat for curing. Its quite adherent on steel and does not crack easily in service. It has a non-glossy white or buff finish. I've tested its heat resistance by torching it and maintaining a cherry red incandescence on the inner hood for an hour or so. It seemed to pass the test and did not discolour, crack or peel. Not exactly easy to apply.
Thanks for the information. I have decided just to derust and leave bare for now. Gotta get buying fuel and mantles now!
Hi guys, I have just noticed (i might have pulled it out) that the little bit of a needle that comes out of the end of the pipe is missing on mine?) I take it I need it for it to work? Can i get a new one do you know. Cheers Rich
@Richard Guilliatt , the Needle is for cleaning the Nozzle from carbon or dirt and for long-term you should have it. But for the moment the lamp also will work without the needle. But you should check inside the carbourator (tube), maybe the needle ist just twisted. The needle has the part number 68 and is still available. Regards, Steven
It also can be that the needle is there but to low. Then you can adjust the height of the needle rod.
@WimVe yes, you are right. Reading this comment, i remembered an instruction, this could be usefull for @Richard Guilliatt for adjusting: a technical description on how to perform a complete cleaning and restoration of a PETROMAX 829 500 - Pelam.de Forum
Petromax Spares Price List Also, though not essential, Cleaning needle key 119 is a very handy little tool which makes removing / replacing the needle much easier.
