Petromax 828 10/42

Discussion in 'Lanterns' started by leo, Aug 18, 2018.

  1. leo

    leo Germany Subscriber

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    I've got this Lantern in a very bad condition from a collecting friend from Austria.
    The tank was heavily pressed in, the carburetor was deformed.
    With two soldered brass rods I was able to pull out the dents almost completely.
    A "10 42" is printed on the bottom of the tank. The lantern is completely made of brass.

    Petromax_828_gruen_Messing_05_kl.JPG
    before:
    Petromax_828_gruen_Messing_01_kl.JPG
    Petromax_828_gruen_Messing_06_kl.jpg 20180811_115335_kl.jpg Petromax_828_gruen_Messing_02_kl.JPG Petromax_828_gruen_Messing_03_kl.JPG 20180811_124640_kl.jpg
     
  2. WimVe

    WimVe Subscriber

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    Top isn't brass is it ?

    Nice lantern.
     
  3. leo

    leo Germany Subscriber

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    of course, Top isn't brass, I'm sorry :lol:. The collar is also made of enameled steel. I don't know what I wrote above :?
     
  4. bp4willi

    bp4willi Germany Subscriber

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    Hi Leo, wie hast du das mit den aufgelöteten messingstangen gemacht??
    Gw
     
  5. leo

    leo Germany Subscriber

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    I soldered the brass rods at different places, then I clamped them in the vice and pulled the tank a little bit, which was pumped up to 2 bar.

    Willy it is an english spoken Forum, let's respect it. Deepl translator works well (mostly ;) )
     
  6. eiremax

    eiremax Subscriber

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    Ah Its a nood to the lanterns heritage. Forgetting about the deformed tank, the lantern is actually in great condition. Nice find and fix.
     
  7. george

    george United States Subscriber

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    I have a Petromax from June 1944. It came with the wooden field box but only one lantern instead of two and a top shield. Lots of extra parts and four globes. I think they are all Putzler glass globes, "Indifferent" trade mark. The lantern is composed of a lot of steel parts. The tank is a field gray (?), almost a very creamy very light gray, with a large yellow lable instructing the user to use in a well ventilated area. The top is black. Petromax 2827B (gasoline).:lol:
     
  8. eiremax

    eiremax Subscriber

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    PICTURES!!
     
  9. WimVe

    WimVe Subscriber

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    Mine set is presented here: Petromax 2827B kist

    [​IMG]

    Would be nice to start a seperate topic and find out if there are any differences between the sets.

    Being a real ww2 item they didn't use a steel tank.
     
  10. urbanz Slovenia

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    Hello!! I've recently bought an old Petromax, it looks very much like the one on the top of the post, it's green and with all the same patents, it's likely exactly the same model. It doesn't seem to be in a bad shape generally, but it's not in working condition... the first thing that boggled me is that the pump valve doesn't seem to be, what it is nowadays, no groove to turn, so i could extract it, to repair it. Any knowledge on this type of 1941-ish pump valves?
     
  11. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    Hello @urbanz and welcome to the forum. There are many people here who will be able to help you but first, some questions.

    Can you post a picture ? When you look down the pump tube, you should see something like this
    01.JPG

    Is it possible that the valve is covered with dirt or pieces of old pump leather ?
    04.JPG


    No valve:
    03.JPG


    It is possible that the valve has been replaced with a Primus one,
    02.JPG

    Henry.
     
  12. urbanz Slovenia

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    @Henry Plews, thank you so much for such a thorough answer! We're near the answer to this riddle :) It is actually what you attached in the last picture, under what you mention as the "Primus one". I couldn't take a photo now, because the pump leather, got accidentaly stuck in the shaft and I need to get it out first, but it is 100% that. Thank you! Now, the question is, - is there a key for that? Can it be replaced with the regular Petromax spare pump valve? - and does the existing one have the same constituent parts under the 'bolt-screw' or is the whole vent made differently too? I'm attaching the pic of the lamp, it is probably older (judging by the rapid heater) than I originally had thought. Thank you! 20190923_103129.jpg
    Urban
     
  13. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom Founder Member Subscriber

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    Yes you need a Primus type valve tool. There was quite a discussion on these recently and I guess someone will provide a link. In action they are the same with a spring loaded rubber seal. The lamp will date from about 1941 onwards because that is when that rapid pre heater valve was made and 1942 would be correct if it is dated. This green painted lantern from WW2 is almost certainly model 2828. All those "military" painted lanterns had a 2 added to the model number and examples of 2821, 2826, 2827 and 2828 do turn up sometimes. ::Neil::
     
  14. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    @urbanz yes, there is a key for that type of pump valve, you can buy one or make your own. Have a look at this thread -
    Primus No 1020 age and seized solid NRV

    The complete valve can be replaced with a regular Petromax one but most parts under the head are the same and it is possible to get just the small rubber seal (part #17).
    How well do you know your old Petromax lanterns ? If you are new to this hobby, you may find this helpful - it's for a bigger lantern but the principal is the same:
    Restoration of a PETROMAX 829 Lantern
    You will see that the rapid heater is a little different but part 229 is the same and if it is bad, it wont be possible to build pressure in the lamp in order to use the rapid heater.
    Replacement seals are available from the Fettlebox here
    Pressure Lamp Seals & Washers - The Fettlebox
    or here Detailseite: Ersatzteil- und Zubehörliste Petromax 250 HK

    Henry.


     
  15. urbanz Slovenia

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    Dear @Mackburner and @Henry Plews thank you for your wonderful explanations and insights. They were very helpful!!! While I'm not completely new to these lanterns, I only had experience with a newer 500hk model and have little experience in restoring them with different parts than the nowaday's standard sets etc. The info that 229 part is the same in both the modern and 'my' rapid heater is very valuable, since I can just see this can easily appear to be the next problem, when I solve the problem with the pump valve. About that one, I'll buy the key, i'll try to figure out, which size is best - and as I understand I can then easily replace it with the standard Petromax pump valve - I'll do that. Thank you so much!
    Urban
     
  16. urbanz Slovenia

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    @Mackburner and @Henry Plews thank you again for your inputs. I've managed to unscrew the pump valve, resolve other issues and renew most seals on the lamp, which is now capable of running beautifully to some extent (great victory!!). In the process of unscrewing crazily "glued-together" nuts I've managed to damage the old preheater lever, so I'm trying to find ways to repair that (not easy). But I have one crucial question - in time, like in an hour or two, the mantle soots up. My strong suspicion was, that the vaporizer has carbon residue all over the place - and it did - I've soaked it in citric acid etc. but the problem remains the Preston loop, which I think is blocked and - when hot - is releasing smoke during burning, that over time soots up the mantle. I cannot clean it even with a bicycle wire or any of the tools available to me - so my questions is - do you think it'd work if I just buy a new upper part of the carburetor? Would it fit on a 1941 lantern or are the screws just different enough nowadays for that not to be possible? For example - the whole carburetor valve doesn't fit on this model - the internal parts do, so I changed them, but the whole valve has slightly different measurements.
     

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