Anchor 950 Lamp

Discussion in 'Pressure Lamp Discussion Forum' started by Mr. Lantern, Dec 30, 2014.

  1. Mr. Lantern

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    Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and would first like to say.."Thanks for welcoming me"!

    I'll get right to it. I purchased a 'new Anchor 950' Kerosene pressure lamp (http://www.majorsurplus.com/Nickel-Plated-Steel-Kerosene-Hurricane-Lantern-P16698.aspx) and received it a couple days ago and just now started to check it out and all.
    Well I followed the instructions that came with it, exactly.
    I had no success on getting it started. First off, I assembled everything correctly and I am using the correct fuel, Kerosene.
    Second, when I start to pump the needle in the supplied 'manometer' does not move at all and when pumping, I can feel that, there appears to be very little or no resistance at all? But there is pressure building up in the tank because when I pull down on the lever of the 'Ignition Device' as it's known, and put a match to the opening of it, it lights like a small torch and flares upwards to the mantle. While that is going on the mantle burns I slowly (as instructed) turn the 'Wheel'as it's called (starting at the 12 O'clock position) either left or right then slowly all the way down (to the 6 O'clock position, as instructed) and I can hear hissing and it looks like it wants to light but the only thing that happens is the mantle looks like it wants to light and top of the lantern starts to flare up with flames!

    I tried this several times and always with the same results so obviously either I am not doing something right or it really is a defective product? I know that there are no leaks in pressure coming from anywhere on the lamp itself?

    Can anyone tell me if the "Red Wheel" that allows the mixure of fuel and air, turns freely without stopping? It appears as though it just turns either way, left or right?
    Also even though the 'Manometer' appears to not function at all, could this be just one of the causes to the problem as well (I think not?).

    I know, I know, you get what you pay for, it's Chinese made, etc. but I really feel that it will work and the lamp is not defected, it's brand new out of the box. I really want to keep it and use it.

    Anyway any and all help, assistance, suggestions, etc. is greatly appreciated.

    Thanks everyone for your time and response and my apologies for the long sad story but I am trying to be specific on all that was done.
     
  2. James

    James Subscriber

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    Welcome Mr Lantern.

    These Chinese-made lanterns sometimes need a bit of maintainance before they run properly.

    It is quite common for the manometer not to work on older lanterns, but I suppose you could have got a faulty one. Assuming you can get the lantern running I would contact the seller and ask them to exchange the manometer.

    The red wheel is supposed to turn freely.

    Two things I would try:

    Firstly, check that the jet is screwed firmly into the vapourising tube as if the jet is loose it can result in fuel leaking from the sides and causing a flare-up.

    Secondly, make sure you are preheating the lantern for long enough prior to opening the red valve. If you are using the "ignition device" it should be left running for about a minute and a half prior to lighting the mantle. You will need to pump the lantern during this time to keep the pressure up. I would recommend preheating with the spirit tray first until you get it running properly. Fill the tray to the top with denatured alcohol, light it and once it has almost burned out open the red valve and start pumping.

    James.
     
  3. Mr. Lantern

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    First off, thanks for your advice James.

    My apologies for the elementry question here but
    when you are using the term 'Jet' exactly what part/section are you referring too? Could you be a bit more specific on pointing out this part known as the 'Jet'?

    As for the 'manometer' well I really think that this is not effecting the problem, I can always replace it, so right now that is not of real importance to me. Right now I just would really like to get the lamp in good working condition?

    I will give your lighting advice a shot and see what happens. I will leave the "ignitor switch" on for approx. 1 min. and then turn the 'Wheel' slowly afterwards. As for the denatured alcohol, process, well I'll try that next if the first process does not work.

    James, again, thanks so much for your input, very much appreciated and if you have any other advice about this then I'd like to read about it!
     
  4. John

    John Subscriber

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    Hello and welcome to the forum.

    The jet is screwed into the top of the vaporizer tube, that's the part with the hoop on it that the mantle goes through. It sure sounds like James has it right and that it's not getting preheated enough to start.

    Check out this link, it'll answer most of the questions you have. Rebuild and Operation
     
  5. Wim

    Wim Subscriber

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    Hi Mr L., welcome! You also mentioned very little resistance when pumping. It would be a good idea to oil the pump cup, and give the cup a bit of a "massage" to make things supple. I hope your lantern still uses a leather one, modern cups are often plastic which is not as good. The pre-heating torch needs a lot of air to function properly so it is rather important your pump works OK. I have an older Anchor lamp, and once I found out how it worked it turned out to be a good, reliable companion! Good luck with yours!

    All the best for 2015,

    Wim
     
  6. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Welcome aboard! :thumbup:
     
  7. James

    James Subscriber

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  8. Mr. Lantern

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    Update:

    Messed with the ANCHOR 950 (Petromax clone) lantern again. Found out that the manometer does actually work. The main problem was that I either:

    1.) did not pump hard enough for pressure.

    or

    2.) just did not pump enough for pressure.

    Anyway, I needed to put on a new mantle (Peerless TYPE III 500cp) since the original one that came with it "fell off"!? The original was an ANCHOR No. 4D (500cp). It had had only been used once and it didn't even light up just burnt up white.
    After all that, I pump the heck out of it and noticed the needle on the manometer start to move toward the Red Indicator Line on the meter, once reached, I then attempted to light and after the second attempt...'presto'... it lit up and sure is bright!

    Just would like to say to "everyone" who posted, "THANK YOU" for your help, assistance and suggestions. It's very much appreciated! :)
     
  9. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith United Kingdom Founder Member

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    I thought you said you'd followed exactly the instructions that came with the lantern - the instructions in the library here say 50-60 pumpstrokes... :whistle:
     
  10. Mr. Lantern

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    Yes, I did follow the instructions as given.

    To me I found the original instructions kind of vague.

    The first time I messed with it (remember this was my very first time messing with a kerosene lantern as well as a Anchor or Petromax lantern didn't know it was a Petromax clone. I am used to the Coleman type lanterns used with Coleman fuel) I pumped the lantern and while counting the pumps I noticed that the manometer needle would not move. So I continued to pump and well simply no go on the lantern.

    The next time I pumped faster and harder and well the results were much better. This was a first time experience for me using kerosene and this type of lantern.

    After the second time messing with it I had success ligthing it and experienced the following:


    Specifically, this is what I found out when learning how to start the ANCHOR 950 (Petromax clone).

    As stated in the instructions, the "Preheat" cold-start process needs to take place. I performed the 'hard-start' process. Afterwards, the actual lighting can take place, once the 'Igniter is lit, then "s-l-o-w-l-y" the "RED KNOB" is turned, from the 12 O'clock position, 'clock-wise little by little, then it lights.

    You see what I found out the first few times when lighting the lantern, when turning the "RED KNOB" even steadily slowly I would get or encounter the fireball like flare up of flames! Even following the instructions which tells me to turn the "RED KNOB" slowly, there is much build up of gas pressure being emitted at a fast rate. When this happens, along with lighting the igniter flame your going to experience a 'fireball of flames flare up!" This happened a few times, then I snapped and just gently and lightly turned the "RED KNOB" ever so slightly and then "poof" the lantern lit!?

    So what does all this tell me? It tells me that when starting the lantern I need to 'gently and very, very slowly turn the RED KNOB ever so lightly in order for the lantern to light properly. Once lit then you can turn the RED KNOB's small pointed arrow all the way down, to the 6 O'clock position.

    Well, this is just my experience in the process with dealing with the ANCHOR 950. I am new to the clone Petromax lanterns and new to kerosene lanterns in general.

    I may be wrong, who knows, I just know that this is what I experienced and maybe it will go different for me next time, who knows? But I will perform the same process the same exact way and see what happens.

    I had it lit and going on last night for several hours and it sure emits a very bright light that's for sure!
     
  11. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith United Kingdom Founder Member

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    Yes, there's a big difference starting the Coleman-fuelled lanterns you're used to and kerosene-fuelled ones - which aren't Instant-Lite or even Quik-Lite or anything like it.

    Kerosene is much less volatile than Coleman fuel so the vapouriser (generator) and burner need to be preheated fully before satisfactory vapourisation will occur. This will take around a minute with the rapid pre-heater and 2-3 minutes if you prime with alcohol. You also need to take into account ambient temperature and windspeed when priming.

    It's also important to realise that even with sufficient priming, the vapouriser and burner aren't initially that much above the boiling point of kerosene. Therefore, if the tank pressure is too high or you open the valve too quickly, the vapouriser is flooded with cold kerosene which drops its temperature below boiling point and you get a massive flare-up caused by liquid fuel burning.

    Just take things a little slower and easier when starting with a kerosene lantern. It doesn't all have to happen straightaway (or, preferably, five minutes ago...) ;) :lol:
     
  12. Mr. Lantern

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    David, thanks so much for the infomation. I will definitely keep this in mind when operating/turning on a "kerosene" lantern, of any type!
     
  13. Digout Australia

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    Welcome aboard Mr Lantern.
    It is good to see that you have overcome your Lantern problems.
    Now you can enjoy the experience
     
  14. Gneiss

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    Yes they certainly are....

    The biggest issue with them is that they rust at the drop of a hat so try and store it somewhere dry.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Mar 31, 2017
  15. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith United Kingdom Founder Member

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    ...and people like me continually whingeing on about how it's far too bright and it's dazzling me and can't you move it somewhere else, please... 8)
     
  16. Alby

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    Hi all .. Well its just a query really , I have just acquired an Anchor 950 CP from a guy in Suffolk ... the sea angling squad.. he was selling 3 on Ebay and I bit the bullet and purchased the shiniest looking best maintained one ... so its been in the Salty Suffolk Sea coast most of its life I suspect and well looked after .... Now I have serviced it... fully washed it out... tested the seals , there are some pits on it and chrome is tarnished but hey it fired up a treat on Kerosene with a cheap Chinee mantle on it ...
    result .... Hey but the downside is I am spoiled by the PMax ex Bundeswehr 829 I have which is much better and totally awesome .... it has a pump adapter fitted and I use an" acme " double barrelled foot pump to pressure it ... it can be left some hours before I even look at the manometer ...
    Now the anchor really cannot be left that long and has to be pumped more as it looses pressure.
    Question ... is there a pump adapter for my Anchor 950 for this similar as the P Max anywhere... they are not an exact fit .. the anchor has a larger thread....
    I suppose the fishermen have little else to do when the wee fishes are not biting other than pump
    the lamps up ... eh .
    Anyone any suggestions ..
     
  17. Alby

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    Durr ... checked out my pump adapter from the Petromax 829 ... took some time mmm ...it fits :roll: ..must have been one of those days when tried to fit it before ... hey I ordered one .. now just fine now its a foot pump for the air supply .. thanks all :D/

    Alb :thumbup:
     

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