Hi all. I’ve just fettled this Coleman 249 kerosene lantern. I have several 249s however this is my first model that’s made in USA, the others being made in Canada and Australia. Before Fettled She is easy to light and burns very bright I’m a poet and didn’t know it! Cheers Pete
Beautiful lantern Pete. Usually find Canadian or Australian 249s in Australia...in fact have never seen a USA 249 in the wild in Australia. Was it found locally or imported? I have found a single UK stamped 237 and 249 in Australia however. Cheers Peter
@peterthevet Yes it was bought from an Aussie collector, however I suspect that he may have sourced it from the USA. Outside of a few collections, it’s the only US example that I have seen in Aussie. To be fair, I hadn’t made a quest in finding one, I just happen to be at the right place at the right time. Cheers Pete
Nicely done Pete. I wouldn't think that 249's were ever imported from the US. The Canadian factory would have supplied the 249's life term in Australia apart from the years they were manufactured here. The odd U.S. made one may be found as collectors or even immigrant's have bought and brought them to Australia.
I think you are right Matty. The UK 237 and 249 I found most likely came over on the boat with the ten pound Poms. Cheers Peter
Peter, There are things that we may never know the true facts about. It is possible that Made In England lamps were sold here if they couldn't flog them all off in the UK. Australia seemed to be a dumping ground for some lamps/lanterns with regards to Coleman. They even flogged off the Colex globes and reflectors for the ColMax lantern that, from memory, was never sold here.
That looks great Pete, brilliant condition! The timing of your post is most fortuitous as I was about to post a 249 fettle question that I expect you may be able to answer. I am stripping down my 249 and I have got to the valve and cleaning wire, freed the nuts but can’t get any further without risk of damage, which I’d rather avoid. I assume the plastic valve stem wheel will just pop off with some persuasion? It’s seen better days anyway. How does it work at the cleaning wire side? There must be some kind of packing in both sides I assume? It’s turning but doesn’t appear to unscrew? Thanks.
@Scott D , have a look at this post. 242b and 249 valves are the same. 1938 Coleman 242B Needle Mechanism Question I'm not sure if the valve wheel does come off. @AussiePete A very nice example, Pete.
It’s a beautiful lantern @AussiePete ! Reminds me Optimus 930, also favourite among many. I think this classic esthetic is appealing to many people - me included.
Hi Matty, good to hear from you, I hope this year shines for you and your family. Yes, I agree with you about the lamps and Australia. There’s murky waters here and at best, informed guesses or as they say “educated guesses” are the order of the day. Cheers mate Pete @Matty
@Scott D The jet cleaner needle mechanism is mechanically independent from the valve shaft that includes the plastic valve knob. The valve assembly screws completely out of the manifold. The following picture is of a 242K that has a similar valve setup albeit it has a plastic wheel for the needle mechanism instead of a bent rod. Here is the 249 parts list for further clarification. The plastic wheel, as far as I know, is moulded to the valve shaft and has not been designed for removal. I would think the best bet here is to replace the valve shaft with a similar one, perhaps from a 242B. Hope this helps. Cheers Pete
Good Day Scott D (Pete, I hope you don't mind that this becomes a fettling thread, mods, please move if needed) In reference to your intention to dismantle the cleaner wire actuator. I would advise against it if it works, that is if rotating the offset stem moves the eccentric block (and tip cleaner) up and down by 1.5-2mm est. If you have to, yes, the actuator (242-353 or 202-3531 tip cleaner stem complete) is sealed with graphite. The graphite is compacted by the threaded ferrule, and is formed into the valve. I believe that once the ferrule is unscrewed from the thread, it is the graphite that holds the stem in place, and pulling forcefully eventually results in the wire stem straightening and leaving the font brass part and graphite packing in place. It is so difficult to remove that I do not know if it can be re-used. I have been told heating it up helps, but I destroyed (graphite pulverized and stem straightened) the 249 tip cleaner. Fortunately I had what I believe is a complete 201 tip cleaner (I attach a photo), and it fits and works. In a pinch I imagine one can reshape the wire if it was bent during removal, re assemble and pack it with graphite sheeting or strands again.
