Coleman Quick-Lite 427 Xmas fettle...soon arriving from the US

Discussion in 'Pressure Lamp Discussion Forum' started by Alex74, Nov 15, 2020.

  1. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hi all,

    Some of you might remember the hard and long fettle of a battered Primus 981, which I greatly enjoyed. Being a masochist I wanted to repeat the harrowing experience with a very old American lamp...

    I always fancied those early Coleman Quick-Lite lanterns with 2 mantles and external pump barrel, so today I bought a rather battered 1926 427 from the evil Bay. Photos to follow but the hood mesh is broken and a mica globe window is missing. The tank looks good from photos.

    Is there anything to watch out for, during the fettle of these lamps? I know they run on petrol rather than kerosene, so I’m conscious of the potential hazard. The plan is to read up on these lamps while it’s in the post. Thanks!
     
  2. Alex Smith

    Alex Smith United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Excellent @Alex74 , looking forwards to this one.
     
  3. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    EC6ACC63-F526-4E54-9E42-7DABDC3BBFC9.jpeg 26537259-A2D1-485B-90D8-6436732096EE.jpeg 3ED1B042-BB85-44A1-83FD-42857E2A7FB9.jpeg F267C5CC-2B75-4055-80BC-8995CC5CAEB5.jpeg 3D1FC60E-267A-49C4-958F-6C277278B4F5.jpeg EDF8D906-61B7-4D8C-95E4-F96E5F49268C.jpeg EC6ACC63-F526-4E54-9E42-7DABDC3BBFC9.jpeg 26537259-A2D1-485B-90D8-6436732096EE.jpeg Ok folks, it has arrived today from the US after almost a month. Here are some photos as it appears straight out of the box. Where do I start please? :roll: It looks in ‘reasonable’ condition apart from the brass mesh at the top...Dated 5 5. Is that May 1925?
     

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  4. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    @Alex74
    Wow, you have a very interesting and fulfilling fettle ahead. These lanterns were well made and, provided the tank is sound, will come up a treat. Excellent reproduction mica globes, I think the Americans call it a chimney, can be obtained from Fred Kuntz. I have a few and they fit perfectly and are value for money.
    The date stamp 5 5, I believe represents May 1925.
    I’m looking forward to seeing the “money shot”.
    Enjoy
    Pete
     
  5. george United States

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    Yes, May 1925! Have fun, these lanterns are almost bullet proof! Just check the tank for stress cracks.
     
  6. Alex Smith

    Alex Smith United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Oh my word, that looks good. Very much looking forwards to seeing how you get on.
     
  7. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Ok thanks guys. Looking forward to start disassembling carefully and having a closer looks at all the parts. The tank looks almost mint despite a very small ding, but I haven’t filled with fuel yet. Where do I get replacement seals and pump leather for this one? Are they still available from Coleman? It’s the Christmas lockdown project....
     
  8. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    @Alex74
    Old Coleman Parts could be good source of any parts you need. I have been very happy with parts from them.
    Here is the link to Mike’s site ....
    OldColemanParts.com :: Lantern Parts
    have fun on your fettle and I’m looking forward to seeing the money shot.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  9. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Great. Thanks Pete. I’ll check Mike’s site straight away. There’s also a Veritas Superb in the queue... but I’ll work on this one first. 8]
     
  10. coleman54

    coleman54 United States Subscriber

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    Alex, Nice project ! :thumbup:
    While shopping for replacement parts if you want time line correct parts, the vent, smooth winged fuel cap, and bakelite fuel valve wheel are not, if that is a concern to you.

    Correct parts for this lantern : is a plated nickel vent that should have a bead flange attached lap seam screen and US Coleman logo stamps and no tabs on lower edge.
    Winged fuel cap should be knurled wing type.
    Fuel valve wheel should be fiber type with: “CLOSE” directional arrow and “D” stamps on the face. I can provide images of these if you would like.

    @Alex74


    Larry
     
  11. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hi Larry,

    that’s great information to start me off. Thanks a lot. Yes, it would be super to get all the original and correct parts if I can find them. Any photo or diagram you have would be a bonus, with thanks. I think I’ll concentrate on getting her operational again first and then, bit by bit, I’ll replace non original parts with time correct ones if I find them. Are the cage and top hood original then? The hood has two small cutaway slots that don’t seem to match any detail in the cage?

    11E3993E-639C-4E82-A548-E1BADF75E4A4.jpeg A7170179-2750-4E39-A9F8-350DDF244D70.jpeg E5058C0C-27C2-4390-8B83-90D1F1E14240.jpeg
     
  12. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    I would also like to try to restore that old mica globe rather than buying a brand new replica (too shiny..). I found new ‘stove inspection window’ mica sheets for sale on eBay and Amazon, which may be ok to replace the broken panes. And I may be able to clean and carefully polish the other ones that survived intact.... anyway, that’s the plan!
     
  13. coleman54

    coleman54 United States Subscriber

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    Yes Alex, the cage (frame) and burner are correct.
    The hood (vent) is not.
    Mica globe is correct.
    Looking at these later images you show the vent stud (missing) and nut (missing)
    Screw retainer is not original either.

    Correct vent :
    0F1218E8-BBCB-4084-B242-1BF658A16DF0.jpeg A6CBD00E-29C3-4CC3-BCC8-008679FD64E2.jpeg 9082D995-84B5-45B6-9BBE-28875A856236.jpeg

    Correct fuel cap :
    60A850D3-7F92-419A-9E0A-10EA71F12B3D.jpeg

    Correct valve wheel :

    51D7FD05-CC03-407D-89C8-01959C68E6F9.jpeg
     
  14. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Thanks Larry,

    that’s great. I got confused with ‘vent’ and ‘hood’. Now all clear. I’ll start looking for time correct parts. the hunt for specific parts is part of the fun of collecting old lanterns. In the meantime I’ll disassemble, and try to bring it back to life.

    Last question for the day. Fuel: here in the UK we have ‘unleaded petrol’. A while ago I also bought a bottle of Coleman fluid for a self-lighting miners lamp. Which fuel works best for this old beast please?
     
  15. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    @Alex74

    Here in the U.K., regular use of unleaded petrol will eventually clog the generator.
    A slightly cheaper alternative to Coleman fuel is Aspen 4 www.find-aspen.co.uk or eBay.
    Cheaper still is Holts Brake & Clutch Cleaner.
    You can also use Panel Wipe (used by automotive paint sprayers) but be aware there are different types, make sure you get one that is naphtha based.
     
  16. Sedgman

    Sedgman Subscriber

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    What an interesting lamp. Does look like a US 1925 427 (pump handle is certainly that) and the parts mentioned earlier would be the ones to make it fit in with the expected 1925 US model. I can’t help wondering why so many parts are not aligned with what they should be. I know the simple answer is they were all changed at some point but why change a filler cap? Oh well maybe they just did. I’m still wondering though and whether the hood is from an early 327.
     
  17. Matty

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    I admire how you adapted to use the term Alex is more familiar with.

    @Alex74

    It is a bleeding shame the vent mesh has had such a nasty impact. This lamp is quite the survivor. It would have been nice to see the hood stay with the lamp. Those cut out notches are a part of the lamps history. I'd have retained the screw that holds the hood on too.
     
  18. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Thanks Guys,

    everything is slowly Starting to make sense about this old Coleman lamp, so many thanks for all the leads and info.

    some of you know I also collect Victorian oil lamps (European and US made), so to thank you all for the advice I’ll send a couple of photos from my latest fettle for the Christmas table. A Stella Matador 20” from around 1905, made in Germany by Otto Mueller. The tank retaining screw had half corroded away, so I had to make an extension with a modern screw. Then remove 120 years of heavy tarnish, de-gunk the burner and find a flame spreader and correct chimney for it. I’m now checking for fuel leaks. The money shot tonight...

    88454051-BD55-44AE-8F6A-D9452D2B57C6.jpeg 7CBFEE1A-C63A-4EAE-9C15-652A3C8F331C.jpeg
     
  19. MikeO

    MikeO Subscriber

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    Very festive with the poinsettia sitting beside the Steela Matador. Christmas card worthy!

    That 427 has some stories to tell! The hole in the pump tube cover is oval from wear so this lantern was a very regular user! Lots of repairs and mismatched bits but I think that's a sign that this was a valuable possession to its owner, and they did whatever needed to keep it going.

    It will be interesting to see how the bolt attaches the hood to the burner. Normally there's a stud in the burner that is threaded at the top for the usual ballnut. They usually seize in the burner and snap off if someone really reefs on a more tightly seized ball nut. I'll bet the previous owner has drilled out the snapped off bit and tapped the hole in the burner for the new bolt they used. Actually, a pretty good field repair solution if that's what they did. Orrrrrr, I wonder if the torn mesh on the hood was from somebody trying to getting the seized stud out with some pliers or vise-grips and they snapped the stud? Seems a drastic approach but if you're going nightfishing and the lantern needs new @#$%^& mantles...
    PA150077.JPG


    I love lanterns like this that were somebody's pride and joy and got plenty of use. It'll speak to you about whether to do a restore to original, a restore to the owner's modifications. Some really philosophical lantern-fu going on.

    Mike.
     
    Last edited: Dec 12, 2020
  20. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    B490C357-D0BE-4A12-884E-899118F4E228.jpeg 304177B6-ECAE-4DA3-8914-19C213152A8A.jpeg 3B24D289-AA49-45AA-B977-6E522667A458.jpeg Hi Mike,

    yes- it certainly has been used, loved and abused! That’s what I liked about it when I bought it. I just love the overall feel of it, hence that’s why I don’t want to put a brand new repro mica globe in it. Sacrilege! So the challenge now is to restore it to a working lamp, whilst keeping that feeling of ‘old and used’... I’ve done it on a couple of Tilley PL53s and the result is very pleasing I must say (the neighbours agree...)

    I’ll post more photos as I take it apart next week. Meanwhile the Stella has been lit tonight... no leaks. It’s interesting to see how well the flame spreader does its job by pushing the flame outward, creating a perfect ring of dancing yellow flame. The light is mellow and warm. Perfect for Christmas Eve. Cheers.
     
  21. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    EE0C72A3-9D47-4654-B720-103144A65EB8.jpeg EE0C72A3-9D47-4654-B720-103144A65EB8.jpeg 00C9CB56-BD2D-433E-B757-83461BF0FBCA.jpeg 9FF30240-F264-401E-9588-B34C2A9ECF56.jpeg ABDEB3FA-C801-489C-9445-BE13CB1F398C.jpeg CC862D39-CB15-4525-B3EC-8ED5E3D1A979.jpeg Ok guys,

    enough with wickies and back to good il pressure lanterns! I’m starting to take everything apart on the L427 tonight (finally on holiday now). The vent was retained by a makeshift screw. The original double threaded stud and ball are missing. I think the generator has a snapped wire. Am I correct? If so shall I repair or replace? If the latter, which type please?

    I have ordered a cheap, identical burner with It’s stud and ball from the US but not the generator....
     
  22. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    The burner seems totally seized in the seat and won’t turn even with release spray....

    08D0486D-E97F-4B22-9FC9-7F6201A3D870.jpeg
     
  23. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Alex

    The steel wire that turns the pricker is broken. The quickest and easiest repair is to replace the generator. Your lantern is fitted with an R55 generator.

    A bit of targeted heat, penetrating oil, patience and care should get the generator nut free.

    Cheers

    Tony

    @Alex74
     
  24. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Thanks Tony..... Progress, or not! The nut was long broken in situ (As revealed by a rusty fracture line on the steel screw) and when I Twisted to get it out, the lower brass part snapped off. Half of the retaining nut is still in there and caked with rust. This is going to get interesting...

    While I can possibly still remove the lower bit of the brass tube, that broken screw is well seized in there....Any ideas?

    90F67CEC-9EE9-424F-A020-BAB0B1BF56C1.jpeg DB27A504-6E0C-4B3B-A76E-3AE29C8A0FEC.jpeg
     
  25. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Mmm... I’ll have to look in the shed.

    Tony
     
  26. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    In the US you look in the shed for inspiration?...:doh::lol: I think I’m going to open a beer to help the problem-solving!...
     
  27. podbros

    podbros United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hi @Alex74 ... Would you be able to take another pic similar to the last one, but after careful cleaning and gentle wire brushing at all, please?

    There may be a way but it involves some skill with a mig welder?

    Or careful heat and quench and a good easyout?

    Remember, it's only metal ; it can't win as it hasn't got a brain ;)

    ..even if sometimes it seems to have a mind of it's own :/
     
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2020
  28. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    A mig welder? I haven’t got one of those I’m afraid. I was thinking of carefully drilling out the remaining bit of brass tubing, then try and use an extractor. However that jammed screw is possibly partly corroded as well (judging by the state of the upper square head), so it may still struggle to come out.... but here’s a photo of the disaster after wire brushing....:shock::cry:

    4063425B-EE3D-49E3-AD05-8B45B6851D5F.jpeg
     
  29. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    To help you wrap your head around the problem, it should look a bit like this:

    F46F1727-3E27-4062-8859-D4C54E6E4600.jpeg

    B20AA6F0-AFFC-4C7D-9F12-0550B29DC122.jpeg

    Tony
     
  30. Alex74

    Alex74 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Thanks Tony,

    brilliant photos. That confirms the presence of a retaining lip on the lower end of the brass tube, just as I thought. My first job is to carefully extract the tube to give me space to try using an extractor...

    I assume the fuel valve assembly unscrews off the tank?
     

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