Corrosion

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Atle Hundsnes, Nov 9, 2021.

  1. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    I have an Optimus 1350/350CP which is quite corroded. Is there hope of maling it shine? i’d like to make it shiny, but what will i have to apply? Citric acid?

    i have seen people rub The lamp, so that the brass is exposed. Is that a possability?

    advice? Thanks!

    985F4ABA-3FFF-4C0B-A899-660735F06D59.jpeg
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 9, 2021
  2. John

    John United States Subscriber

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    Hello Atle,

    I think the spots may be deeper than the plating.

    A short dip in citric acid may help. But not for more than three or four minutes. Then use a fine polishing compound and let’s see what you get.

    It is very easy to polish through the plating so go slowly and check often.

    Thank you,
    John
     
  3. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    Thanks! so what’s under The plating?
    Brass?
     
  4. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    It doesn't look like brass. I have a steel made, nickel plated Coleman that came to me in that state and yours 'looks' the same to me. Try a magnet to see if it is ferrous.
     
  5. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    So, what happens if it is steel made, and I polish through the nickel plate? I'll check with a magnet.
     
  6. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith United Kingdom Founder Member

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    Apparently, an old antique dealers trick is to polish with wettened kitchen foil.

    I don't think that I've ever tried it (if I have, I've forgotten how it turned out!) and possibly your lantern is too far gone but it might help with some of the more minor pitting...
     
  7. Matti Kucer

    Matti Kucer Sweden Subscriber

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    Hi!

    If You check the metal when the fuel lid is off then You will see unplated brass there. They are supposed to be made of plated brass.

    The 1551 tanks where made in steel.

    Regards
     
  8. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    So then I can rub the nickel plating off entirely, and get a shiny brass lamp. I've seen some examples of this, and it's quite nice. And quite a bit of work. :-)
     
  9. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith United Kingdom Founder Member

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    Realistically, that might be your only option. Replating will be uneconomic...
     
  10. Ole Larson

    Ole Larson Subscriber

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  11. MYN

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    Despite all the pitting corrosion, do you see any traces of red rust?
    If its made of steel, you'd surely see some. If its brass, there won't be any.
    You need not polish it all the way down to bare yellow brass. That is very tedious.
    Some gentle polishing(with Autosol, Mothers, Never-dull, anything) would usually make the blemishes and corrosion inconspicuous and restore back a lot of shine.
     
  12. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    I will try with Autosol. Thanks.
     
  13. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    If there is a label on the lamp that says 1350, then it is brass. The 1350 was nickel plated brass on the tank and globe cage. The hood was chrome plated. I would expect polishing the nickel off the tank would be a big job. Doing it chemically or by electrolysis would be easier and quicker.
     
  14. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    Update: I bought 500 sandpaper to use with my drill, so we'll soon find out if that works. The tank/ lamp body isn't magnetic, and it's made of brass. the rest is steel. I will re- paint the top lid, I got close to the same color spray paint. So we'll see.
     
  15. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Atle Hundsnes

    If you’re talking about painting the cap at the top of the hood: there is no paint that will last if you use the lamp regularly — I assume the current coating is ceramic.

    Best regards

    Tony
     
  16. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    I bought spray paint which is said to withstand The temperature. Was expensive enough..
    RAL- paint. For cars etc.
     
  17. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Atle Hundsnes

    I’ve used just about every high, and very high, temperature paint available in Australia and none have withstood repeated running of lanterns.

    There’s been a fair bit of discussion of this subject here, so let us know how it goes.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  18. MYN

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    I think the top cap on the hood of your Optimus 1350 might have a red vitreous/porcelain enamel coat. That isn't the same as any paint you'd find anywhere on the globe, so far as what I'm aware of. It is not a paint in the first place :).
    There aren't any paints on the regular domestic market that can match up to it in terms of high temperature resistance.
    Most high temperature paints would come in matt(non-glossy) finish. The glossy ones would soon lose their gloss or discolour if subjected to the temperatures of the hood after a while.
    Nevertheless, there are some highly speciallized industrial or R & D ceramic/inorganic paint coatings that would match up to vitreous enamels. Some even exceed the temperature ratings but they come in flat/matt and very limited choice of colours.
    Do let us know what your outcome is.
     
  19. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    So i painted The top, and bubbles appeard when The temperature rose. I’ll have to Get A new top. Else the lamp looks good, i think. FC7E3B08-45C2-4DE4-B4E5-8686B546C124.jpeg
     
  20. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    Looks like you have yourself a working lantern :thumbup:
     
  21. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    It’s working, allright. After much effort and some New parts. The hardest was The pre- heater, which now is workig. i’m quite pleased with The brass- look. I didn’t waNT it to be too shiny, The contrast would be too much.
     
  22. Fireexit1

    Fireexit1 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hi Atle, looks like it will give good service. The top is enamelled "emaljert" to work with high temperatures. Paint will not work. Maybe remove the paint and live with the old enamel finish ?
     
  23. Atle Hundsnes Norway

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    I ordered another one..
     

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