Feeling stupid, need some memory help.

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Reese Williams, Dec 13, 2019.

  1. Reese Williams

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    I agreed to overhaul a couple of x246es, pre 1960 Guardsman, for a friend. Took one apart, then the project got sidetracked for a couple of months. Back on it now and putting it back together I came up with three extra parts and don't remember where they go. They are the three parts below the valve in the picture. The valve is shown for scale (I do remember where it goes). There is a gasket in the kit that fits the large washer. I disassembled the second lantern (there is a reason I only take one apart at a time) and these three pieces aren't in the second one.

    Also, am I correct that the x246 only takes one small gasket under the gland nut vs two for the x246b?
    WP_20191212_003.jpg
    Any help appreciated.
     
  2. george

    george United States Subscriber

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    I'm no Tilley expert but none of those parts look like they belong on a Tilley. I'll let the experts take over here.
    :mrgreen:
     
  3. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    The large rimmed metal ring goes on the pump above the washer. Not sure about the small washer or the 2BA nut. Are they definitely from the 246?
     
  4. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    The small C washer and nut are from the Tilley pump.

    Cheers

    Tony

    @Reese Williams
     
  5. Reese Williams

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    Interesting, since the leather was in good shape I didn't disassemble that portion of the pump. Did do the NRV but left the rod assembled. There was a spare leather, wonder if those were spare as well and I just forgot. I've forgotten more important things than that before.

    Thanks guys.
     
  6. Reese Williams

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    It has all become clear. When I took out the pump rod I inspected the leather, it was good so I put the rod aside without really looking at it. The above posts made me take a closer look and a look at the rod from the other lantern. It suddenly became clear that someone else had been at the rod before me when I finally noticed the spring was on the wrong side of the pump cap. The split washer, nut and a spare leather were in the bottom of the pump. The nut is redundant, the other parts are now in their rightful place. Sometimes I wonder if I'm getting too old to walk and breathe at the same time. Golden years my arse.
     
  7. Anthony

    Anthony Australia Subscriber

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    :clap: That has to be the quote of the year :clap:
     
  8. george

    george United States Subscriber

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    See, I told you my eye site is failing!:mrgreen:
     
  9. Reese Williams

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    @Tony Press @ColinG
    Ok, everything together. With the valve and pump installed, no vaporizer, control cock knob full clockwise, there is still an air leak when I pump it up, enough of a one I don't think you could ever get full pressure at least not for more than a few seconds. What did I miss? All gaskets are new. The leak is in the valve. With the valve removed I can blow air through the valve with the knob full clockwise. Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    RW
     
  10. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @Reese Williams

    Have you checked the rubber (viton) seal that sits in the brass cup at the bottom of the valve?

    1. Make sure it’s not hard, and that it sits evenly, and engages with the lip in the bottom of the cock.

    2. Check the spring in there. It should be firmly pushing the brass cup with washer to the bottom of the control cock. If it’s not, stretch it about 20%.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  11. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    What Tony says!
     
  12. Reese Williams

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    @Tony Press @ColinG
    All gaskets and pips are new from a Fettlebox kit. I cleaned the seat in the bottom of the valve where the pip is. The spring was in good shape and felt like it had enough tension but I guess I can stretch it a bit. I adjusted the locating bush (I'd call it a jam nut) so that the valve bottomed out in the fount the snugged the bush. I'll give the spring a tug and report back.

    thanks
     
  13. Reese Williams

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    Well bugger me blind, that did it. Stretched the spring a bit and was able to pump it up until its little barometer popped up flush with its housing just like the tattle tale in a roast turkey.

    I guess after some of the Preways and PL-1s I'm just overthinking a nice straight forward design like the Tilley.
     
  14. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Excellent!


    Cheers

    Tony
     
  15. Reese Williams

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    @Tony Press @ColinG
    Ok, so how do you get Tilley mantles to work. I got a batch of genuine Tilley mantles from one of the big three vendors. What crap compared to a Coleman sock style mantle. Half of the tillies don't have the tie string threaded properly through the mesh, the strings break with a moderate tug on them. How do you get the mantle to open up before burning it in? Mine want to stay creased at the middle where it's flattened out in the package so it hangs like a battered umbrella or a mushroom cap. I'm used to tying on a mantle, pumping up the lantern, burning the mantle, then while it's still hot opening the valve and lighting the lantern. The air/gas flow fills the mantle out to a nice round shape and life is good. Do I just not understand the way of Tilley? Any suggestions appreciated.

    Merry Christmas to you and yours.

    Reese
     
  16. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    Reese

    Tying/lighting instructions in a moment.

    I use cheap mantles for testing, but use The Base Camp (UK) mantles, Tilley mantles, or Peerless mantles for proper work.

    If you have broken tie strings you can set the mantle in place with this fuse wire, or strong waxed cotton.

    I always set my Tilley mantle up as per the instructions below, but for the initial lighting, I carefully drip alcohol onto the mantle to soak it. It burns in quicker.

    Do the ‘setting-in’ of the mantle with the glass off, then put the glass on when it’s all operating properly.

    BBFE562D-DEAA-4F4C-9956-F52BE8D00E0E.jpeg

    E981AC9D-0C3A-4CD0-B2B0-5E03E05F99EA.jpeg


    Cheers

    Tony


    @Reese Williams
     
  17. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    If you want to try a different method of tying mantles, have a look at this here you might find it useful.
     
  18. Reese Williams

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    @Tony Press @ColinG
    I have been tying them per picture above but instead of it standing out in a nice flying saucer shape it is so soft it hangs limply from the upper tie making an umbrella shape with the upper and lower halves of the mantle lying against each other and the crease in the middle of the mantle making the lower edge of the umbrella. I'll try Colin's method tomorrow and see how that goes.

    thanks gentlemen.
     
  19. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    One thing to remember is that when it's first inflated the mantle should 'puff out' but it doesn't always do it properly. Try adding pressure with the valve closed and when the meths has almost burnt, open the valve swiftly. This might help it to inflate correctly. Once you've got a good shape you won't have to do it again!
     
  20. Tony Press

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    Reese

    It should not matter if the mantle is flaccid. Mine do that when I soak them in alcohol. The main game it to have them even and not twisted.

    The mantle should be inflated to full running pressure to get its shape properly.

    Cheers

    Tony

    @Reese Williams
     
  21. Reese Williams

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    @Tony Press @ColinG
    Better. Colin's alternative tie worked better for me. It gave at least a semblance of a bag shape to the mantle. I think reversing the crease was the key. Both lanterns are burning nicely now and will soon be on their way back to the owner. He's an expat Brit who runs the trap program at my gun club and he wants to pass them on to one of his sons. apparently they belonged to his dad when he was a sprog. His dad was something in the colonial government in British Guiana and he grew up there using these for house lighting.

    Thank you both for your patience and help.
     
  22. Reese Williams

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  23. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    :thumbup:

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  24. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    :clap::D/
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  25. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Glad to have helped. I confess I'm not the inventor of that method but I drew the diagram showing how you do it. I posted another thread about using Butterfly mantles as double ties by undoing the bottom stitching. You'll find it here.
    The advantage in doing this is that they are so cheap you can experiment without worrying about wasting expensive mantles.
     

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