HANDI an Australian Made Lantern – Fettle

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by AussiePete, Aug 24, 2020.

  1. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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  2. Nicholas Aslanides Australia

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    Thanks Pete, I'll check it out and grab some.

    Nicholas
     
  3. bonza Australia

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    I enjoyed reading this thread and found a lot of interesting info.
    a Handi pressure lamp is one that I have long wished to obtain
     
  4. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    @bonza
    The Handi lantern is a good runner and when service/restored will give years of service.
    I hope you find one soon.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  5. Paul Aslanides

    Paul Aslanides Australia Subscriber

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    @AussiePete
    @ROBBO55

    Hullo fellers. I'm curious to know how the cleaning spindle in the Handi is sealed. Just in case I need to address any future problem there.
    Are there O rings on the spindle, or should I pack the long nut with Graphite ?

    Also, any details on how to make the crimping tool, please ? What is the function of that piece of copper over the angle iron in the vice ?

    Thank you.
     
  6. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    Hi @Paul Aslanides
    The copper sheet is just a shield to prevent the small file marring the top of the steel die blocks as I file the edges of the pricker.

    The die blocks are made from 1/2” steel angle iron.
    5C420719-8F70-449C-A8AD-BEDE5823D264.jpeg
    The blocks have 2 lugs, rounded 3/16” screws threaded and installed into one half and a corresponding holes in the other half, that precisely locate both half of the dies together when crimping.
    The blocks were then clamped together and 2 holes, channels one 2mm the other 1.5mm, were drilled between the clamped faces. 43A45120-9C9A-4DDB-9960-45E546A54912.jpeg DEBD377E-23AC-48BD-AC8C-6DC00265597B.jpeg
    The drill bits have brass sleeves so that my pedestal drill’s chuck can tighten and grip them.
    The 2mm channel is basically a holder and doesn’t distort a 1/16” brass tube. This holds the brass tube whilst I thread it.
    D1D63701-F69E-43C4-915B-BF1E8601C87A.jpeg FE22C276-C773-454B-A240-63387C508273.jpeg
    The inner channel hole, 1.5mm, is the crimping hole. The vice is tightened up when the threaded brass tube, with the pricker wire installed, is inserted to the required depth.
    D97EF3EC-D635-47B4-8D6E-1ADE2A49ACF2.jpeg
    After the first crimp the brass tube is rotated 90 degrees and crimped again.

    the freshly crimped pricker is then put back into the holding 2mm hole
    15EAEF83-379D-4DB0-B0AB-E17E0A583F8E.jpeg

    A copper keeper or shield is placed over the pricker and the sides are tapered with a very fine file. AC968FE3-4B51-4290-BA3C-0DB1BE851208.jpeg

    The result is a very nice pricker.
    8AD36254-DB04-4A2B-AB33-F6EB045023C2.jpeg

    Note .... the actual prick wire is knotted first before it’s installed into the brass tube to be crimped.
    517AC256-83E8-4CC3-A1F2-5BD4629B3691.jpeg

    Hope this helps
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  7. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    Hi @Paul Aslanides
    Ooooooops .......... the holes stated as the holding 2.0mm and the crimping 1.5mm are incorrect. :cry:

    The following is correct: holding 1.5mm and the crimping 1.0mm

    It was early in the morning and I hadn't my coffee at the time ........:shock:
     
  8. Darryl Durdin

    Darryl Durdin Australia Subscriber

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    Great display @AussiePete , thank you for sharing , others will try making there own
     
  9. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    Paul, If I remember correctly the seal is a compressed fibre material (Asbestos?). If I remove the spindle I usually replace the seal with graphite.
     
  10. Paul Aslanides

    Paul Aslanides Australia Subscriber

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    ROBBO55 Thank you. Found this recently. Asbestos Cord. Haven't used this stuff since 1971 when I had a leaking fuel tap on the Indian Scout. PTFE tape is much safer. I'll try a cutting of one strand as a wick, in the spirit cup on a lantern.

    Asbestos Cord.jpg
     
  11. Paul Aslanides

    Paul Aslanides Australia Subscriber

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    @AussiePete Thank you, Peter. Much appreciated.
     
  12. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    @Paul Aslanides
    No worries mate, only too happy to help.
    Cheers mate
    Pete
     
  13. Barry Purkins Australia

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    I have inherited an old Handi Kero-Pet pressure light.
    I dismantled for cleaning and looking at the generator it looks different to the generator shown on parts list for Kerosene.
    Anyone know how to tell if generator has been changed from Kero to Shellite.
     
  14. Darryl Durdin

    Darryl Durdin Australia Subscriber

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    @Barry Purkins
    I believe there is a stamp
    Number or letter on the jet or gen,
    If you have pulled the vaporiser apart.
    Shellite has a fine brass mesh as the flow restrict or, kero has a curly spring like restrict or,
    I hope this helps
     
  15. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    Outwardly there should not be any difference between the kero or shellite generators. As Darryl has said, there is a difference in the packing and the jet is different. The shellite jet has an O stamped on the top. Here you can see a shellite and a kero jet side by side. A bit out of focus, but you can see the O.

    Handi_jets_2_cropped.jpg

    I have seen one example of a Handi with a different generator. It was more the size of an Austramax generator. I don't know any more details about it.
     
  16. Barry Purkins Australia

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    Thanks Darryl and Nils
    It has a fine brass mesh. I will look for a number on jet
    Regard
    Barry
     

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