Hasag 52 SAPO mystery unveiled

Discussion in 'HASAG' started by Cesar, Sep 20, 2020.

  1. Cesar

    Cesar Chile Subscriber

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    20200920_112106.jpg
    20200920_112511.jpg 20200920_112431.jpg 20200920_112412.jpg 20200920_112335.jpg 20200920_112150.jpg 20200920_112630.jpg 20200920_112132.jpg 20200920_112554.jpg 20200920_112119.jpg 20200920_112533.jpg 20200920_112520.jpg 20200920_112324.jpg 20200920_112306.jpg 20200920_112912.jpg 20200920_112214.jpg 20200920_112106.jpg Hasag 52 Sapo, i share with you my latest finding, before they removed the chrome and apparently it will be easier to polish the surface and enjoy the color of the bronze, the lamp only has the old Hasag logo, the number 52 on the plate and a daring sheet of metal with an embossed frog and is glued or welded to the fountain. There is nothing written below the font and it does not have a Hasag logo in the highest part of the hat as I have seen in other Hasag 52s.
    I have the impression that it is a very old model, maybe from the early 20's, I want to know more about it.
    I want to disassemble and change the ruined parts, I do not know how to remove the valve from the bottom of the pump, and I do not know the dimensions of the rubber and seals of the other sections of the lantern, my experience is basically with Petromax lanterns. I would like to get the original knob, apparently it was black and with rounded edges, as it has one of ILSA lanterns that were made in Uruguay. The mystery of the SAPO was solved here. I have just got this lamp in Uruguay, the eastern country of South America, after investigating the origin of the frog stuck in the fountain, I discovered that it was a distributor in Montevideo, the capital of this country, which was dedicated to importing lamps and other related items with construction and agricultural machine parts called "SAPO", Variela Radio & Cia, Cerro Largo, Montevideo. (Source Neil Mc Ray).
    sapo.jpg
    I would like to know more about this flashlight and I also appreciate your advice to bring it to life again.

    Cesar.
     

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  2. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    A fine restoration project!:thumbup:
     
  3. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom Founder Member Subscriber

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    This is listed in the PLC but only from the 1938 Sapo leaflet I have. To date I am not aware of any examples of a marked Sapo lantern with a collector. It seems to be a pretty standard pre WW2 Hasag 52. Very nice find. ::Neil::
     
  4. podbros

    podbros United Kingdom Subscriber

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  5. Michel

    Michel Subscriber

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    Sapo in spanish means toad in english
    I had a sapo lamp
    IMG_2427.JPG IMG_2637.JPG
     
  6. Cesar

    Cesar Chile Subscriber

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    Dear friends, today I started to disassemble the lamp with the intention of lighting the lamp but unfortunately it does not have the generator rod (K5212), needle (K5211), nut (K5213) and lower part (K5214) i don't know what its name is.
    20200930_193807.jpg
    Without these parts it will be impossible to light the lamp so I appreciate in advance any information on how to get them, I also need to get the knob, the washer and the nut from that section.
    1474219718-Hasag_lever.jpg
    I would also like to know how the mechanism works to prevent, when activating the pump, the paraffin rises from the fount, in the most modern Petromax lamps, there is a spring with a rubber that is activated by turning the knob allowing the paraffin to rise, In this lamp there is no valve submerged in the fount. I imagine that the lower part of the rod that is connected to the eccentric axis of the knob seals the passage of the paraffin, but for a good seal this part should be made of rubber ...
    Well, I hope you forgive my bad English and can guide me.
    Cheers
    Cesar
     
  7. WimVe

    WimVe Subscriber

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    I will look in my scrap yard if I have something.
    But you may check petromax parts if they fit or can be modified.

    As for pressure. You have to know that this is not a Petromax rapid style of lantern.
    You don't need pressure to light it.
    Simply pre heat, close the filler cap, pre heat again and start pumping slowly and gentle.
    If pre heated enough it will pop into light, then pump up the pressure.
     
  8. Cesar

    Cesar Chile Subscriber

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    Thank you @WimVe, so I can understand that the knob has the unique function of raising and lowering the needle to keep the injector clean and there is no way to stop the rise of the paraffin unless pressure is released by releasing the wingnut from the filler cap .
    If this works that way, I only have to doubt if the needle also does the function of sealing, under the injector, the paraffin outlet.

    Anyway, I don't want to miss the opportunity to get these missing parts, maybe someone has a hasag 52 as a donor.
    Having clarified my doubts, I think I could adapt a petromax column (which is the most common in my country) and crown it with a 350 hk needle and injector, although I have not tested if the thread is compatible, maybe someone here has had some experience with this modification.
    As always I will be happy with your answers and advice.

    Thank you from South America,
    Cesar.
     
  9. WimVe

    WimVe Subscriber

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    Well it is not an unique feature but the basic feature of a pressure lantern.
    The rapid torch is the extra unique feature which requires an extra (foot) valve in the feed tube.

    The only function of the needle is to clean.

    You can operate the lantern without a needle.
    I would say: put a fine brass mess rolled up in the generator and fire here up.
    First a "dry" test to check if fuel comes out at all in a straight line.
     
  10. Cesar

    Cesar Chile Subscriber

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    So only lamps with rapid torch preheating have a foot valve?
    If so, that makes a lot of logic but it's new to me.
    @WimVe Soon I will start with the tests that you advise me, anyway you may find among your things a knob and nut.

    Thanks

    Cesar
     
  11. WimVe

    WimVe Subscriber

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    Yes correct but you must consier in this the way the lantern is constructed. In this case we speak about the "Petromax style".
    So the two piece generator, lowerpart with knob and upper part with preston loop, no rapid.

    If you look at Tilley type lanterns: there is a valve but in the knob, but no rapid (most models).
    But even then you first heat up and then built up pressure. I do this always because it give me more control at the start.
     
  12. Martin K.

    Martin K. Subscriber

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    Contemporary Petromax parts will almost certainly fit this lantern. However, minor modifications (e.g. length adjustments) may have to be made. The (upper part of the) vaporizer design is very similar, although the top part of the lantern with the mixing tube etc. is different. The most significant difference is that this lantern does not have a "straight" lower part of the vaporizer as you already noted. Therefore it lacks the fuel valve as Wim already mentioned, but it is not required because there is no torch preheater.

    Just use part no. 68 plus 104 (w/o part no. 191), seen on this site (scroll down a little bit for the better picture) as a replacement for the missing cleaning needle rod. The needle itself should be the 350HK type as the closest match to your lantern, and will probably be the hardest part to come by.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2020
  13. Cesar

    Cesar Chile Subscriber

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    I have finally been able to light the Sapo lamp, I want to thank @Mackburner @WimVe and @Martin K. and all who were interested in my adventure. I comment that the rod, nut and the lower part where the eccentric shaft connects were donated by a Petromax 829 and only a small adjustment I had to make regarding the length, result, perfect.
    Then I dedicated myself to a general cleaning, with a bronze brush for all the pipes and thick bronze parts and with a cloth plus a chemical agent for the pond and other shells, brilliant result!
    Result for the soul, comfortable!
    It was really entertaining, after daily work I knew that a restoration session awaited me, that was an incentive.
    The original glass will be very difficult to get, although I would like to have some information on where to get some Schott Suprax, Jena Therm or another German that does not say Petromax so that it fits with this and other lamps that do not have it.
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    I also want to get the corresponding knob and nut to finish this wonderful process with this lamp that is almost 100 years old and that looks and works as if it were 20 ...
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