Dears, I just bought a „project in progress” lamp from a fellow collector. Project was in progress for the last several years. Now I have my chance, but would like to get some opinions/advices first. Tank bottom is from another PX lamp and fits well into the tank – it was prepared by that previous owner. I consider soft solder it with a propane-butane torch. To avoid damaging other soldered parts I will submerge most of the tank into the water. Just the soldered rim will be above the surface during the work. Additionally, I might even add some tiny screws/pins around the rim bottom to make sure that bottom and rest of the tank holds together strong. At least this is my idea for now. Any other ideas – please let me know. There are some gaps around the spiritus pump tube as well. That will be even more problematic to solder because there are more soldered parts in the vicinity (especially top and inside the pump tube). It is hard to protect these parts from heat, so you have any ideas how to protect these parts – please let me know. I would just epoxy these holes around the Spiritus pump with dedicated Caswell epoxy, but considering that the whole bottom is cut out already and I have great access to everything then I would like to try to solder that as well. My available tools are 150W transformer soldering iron (seems too weak for that job), propane-butane torch and some basic MAPP gas torch. Both torches seem to lack precision and will heat up the whole pump and tank before I solder spiritus pump, most likely... I consider buying some more precise torch but would prefer to avoid it if possible. 150EUR for such a simple, but quite precise ORCA M75 propane torch, but I am not sure if that would help me much: Palnik jubilerski Orca 3 nasadki GAZ-BUT Reduktory, węże do gazu, kartusze gazowe Or maybe some bigger resistance type soldering iron would be cheaper and good option? Or maybe just Caswell it and do not risk soldering? That will be easy and safe. I am just not sure if as much durable as soldering. For Petromax collectors – this is some unique opportunity to see insides of Petromax R823 DB tank (lamp is different in some ways from R823/6 DB), so if you have any questions, dimensions and/or more pics needed etc. then I can try to answer them before I close that tank (hopefully soon). All the best, Piotrek
As you may already know, you can protect the area from high heat by simply soaking a highly water-retentive cloth in water and placing the cloth over the area you want to protect. I've never seen the inside of a tank so closely before. It was a learning experience.
Good images of the inside of the tank. For precision soldering, search the internet for "small butane torch", sometimes called a Chef's torch or kitchen torch. Here is just one example - there are others Sondiko Kitchen Blow Torch S901, Refillable Kitchen Butane Torch with Safety Lo | eBay For best results, follow the advice from @Camp numao.
I would certainly attempt to repair it using solder as first choice on such a classic. I prefer to reserve the use of epoxies on more 'modern' items. I've used a 200-300W electric soldering iron with fair success. The success was greatly attributed to the acidic(reactive) flux that I was using. I think it was an acidic zinc chloride liquid(solution). Its not even a paste. It was extremely efficient in removing oxidation...to an extent that I did not even need to pre-clean or scrub off the existing oxidation and patina before soldering. The flux started working to visibly remove the oxidation even without heating. That was pretty much zero preps. I was soldering the 'bung' and upper section of a defective Coleman 237 involving a large affected area. The solder wetting, flow and filling of tiny holes and gaps were so efficient that I could touch any metal section that's merely half an inch from the point where the solder was still molten. The wetting of metal by solder was near-instant and completely without 'dry joints'. That's to imply the heating of parts had been very localized, something that I find hard to achieve with a torch. I did not even need to cool the rest of the fount with water to prevent any adjacent soldered joints from melting. It was something that I had never achieved with a gas torch and rosin-cored electronics solder. It basically 'caught' me by surprise and I was completely amazed at that time.
Thank you very much Guys. I ordered a small torch and a big 200W old fashion soldering iron. With that equipment and wet cloths I will go for it. Knowing my luck, most likely I will screw something during the process, but all should be fine at the end I will post that lamp once it is ready, because I promised that to the previous owner and it is an interesting piece of scrap IMHO all the best, Piotrek
Some update: 1. Gaps around the spiritus pump tube - very small torch. It was quite easy. 2. Tank bottom - propane-butane torch. Not easy, but I leant a lot during the process Plenty of tin used. It is even visible inside the tank around the rim. Tank keeps pressure. That type of soldering is definitely strong and looking good IMHO. Anyway, I had no choice as I received these parts prepared by someone else. Thanks a lot for all recommendations. all the best, Piotrek