Newbie needing help with Lamp Control Cock

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by adamresearch, Jun 5, 2020.

  1. adamresearch

    adamresearch United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hi, I think I have a X246B lamp judging by the wire cage around the glass. The control cock is aluminium but the vids I've seen on youtube are for the earlier model.. How do i service this - well can i dismantle the control cock to replace washers and cup? Mine is leaking but the ali is welded to the body of the cock so i'm not sure if I get a spanner on it, it will just round off the 'nut' and I've broken it, can i actually get the knob shaft off the control valve at all. Is heating any good. Any help would be great!!! Thank you
     

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  2. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom Founder Member Subscriber

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    That hex nut is indeed welded in so does not remove and you don't need to anyway to service this part. Just a new O ring seal for the gland is all you need to do. There is a spring loaded valve under the gauze filter and that filter cup unscrews if you want to fettle the valve. Mostly I wouldn't bother bcause that NRV is a redundant feature of a Tilley so if the fuel flow is OK you can leave that alone.

    !!Til-Cock-777.jpg

    These are aluminium cocks so you should not heat with a blow lamp. Ally has a lower melt point than brass and it's all too easy to damage the threads. Better to soak in an easing oil for a while to free things off. ::Neil::
     
  3. JonD

    JonD Subscriber

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    You can get to the rubber seal for servicing this way.


    tilley_cock.jpg
     
  4. podbros

    podbros United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hi Adam and Welcome! :)

    Have you checked the little aluminium cup to see if there is an old washer/seal still in place? Sometimes they hide in there, it's not always easy to spot them?

    Hopefully it was the gland seal leaking and not the welded alu nut?

    Best of luck with the fettling of your Tilleys :thumbup:
     
  5. plantpot

    plantpot United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @adamresearch

    Hey Adam... I used to live in Hastings, up on the hill near the castle.

    The control black knob pulls off the shaft. There should not be a set screw holding it in it literally pushes back on.

    Grip the shaft with molegrips using cloth, leather, or whatever (i use a small strip of sandpaper) to stop it marking and give extra grip and wiggle the knob off , may need another pair of grips for this.

    The knurled round part unscrews as in the photo above, revealing an O ring type washer on the shaft, this is what will have been leaking, nothing more. Replace this and while you are at it do all the other seals in the lamp as its so worth it. Get a kit for late model tilleys from here on fettlebox.

    If the old seal in the knurled bit is stuck in there from age, heat the part very gently with the flame from a lighter, softening the old rubber, nothing more, and pick it out using a pin or similar, dental picks are excelent for this. It must all be out for the new one to work and must be clean in there, no residue.

    When re assembling you should not need to do anything up other than firm fingertight, especially the knurled bit on the turning shaft.

    Best!
     
    Last edited: Jun 5, 2020
  6. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Welcome aboard!:thumbup:
     
  7. adamresearch

    adamresearch United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Hi Guys, thank you for all your replies which helped a lot! Does anyone know how good the replacement vapourisers from Taiwan are? I've replaced all seals on my tilley but even with a fair bit of pressure in the tank i'm getting almost no flow through the vapouriser nozzle. My previous tilley just worked endlessly month after month, used 10 hours a day. I lost the thing and bought a replacement but it's never run very well. The taiwan 5" vapouriser looks the part but almost no flow thro the nozzle. Does anyone know if i've lost another £27 on this lamp?! Anyone got a spare needle I could use?

    Thanks for your help guys.
     
  8. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    2 vapourisers with the same problem. It could be bad luck?

    Have you checked the pickup tube inside the fount isn't blicked? Remove the valve and insert a wire or pipe cleaner, with the pump removed you should see the end of the wire come out of the pipe inside the fount.
     
  9. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom Founder Member Subscriber

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    I would check the fuel flow through the cock. Not a common fault but I have had two of those alloy cocks that passed almost no kero. I can't remember if I just replaced them or fettled them which probably involved a drill. ::Neil::
     
  10. adamresearch

    adamresearch United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Thanks guys will give it a go, I have pumped up the tank without the control cock attached and there is pressure and some fuel comes out but i'm uncertain as to 'how much' is the right amount. Certainly makes a bit of a mess but that's not very quantifiable. Im not giving up on this lamp but decided to buy the petromax HK 500 as a er, back up, delivery anyday now. Will keep you posted on any tilley developments - have another go over the weekend.
     
  11. David Shouksmith

    David Shouksmith United Kingdom Founder Member

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    In simple terms, if it's enough to make a mess, it's enough to run the lamp. If you think about it, a full tank of fuel is sufficient to run the lantern for around eight hours so the necessary flow rate is small. I think you need to look elsewhere for the root of the problem. As far as the vapourisers Tilley are currently selling, we've had reports of no hole, two holes, oval holes and so on.

    Replace the vapouriser but leave off the burner. When you pump up the lamp and open the control cock, does a thin jet of paraffin squirt out of the top of the vapouriser and rise several feet into the air? That's what you want...
     
    Last edited: Jun 18, 2020
  12. Alex Smith

    Alex Smith United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Have you gone "brand new Petromax" or older variant?
     

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