POR15

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by presscall, Aug 6, 2020.

  1. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber

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    It’s done its job on two lantern fonts and a stove tank - all with stress cracks - now I have the frustration of seeing the (expensive) residue harden in the tin prior to being binned.

    8A5B8E3A-9411-4B94-9759-250541713EC9.jpeg


    That’s the smallest tin intended to seal leaks in a motorcycle fuel tank. Yet smaller would be great for stove and lantern tank repairs.

    John
     
  2. Matti Kucer

    Matti Kucer Sweden Subscriber

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    Hi!

    Yes, its expensive, especially since one also needs the cleaner and the primer.

    Please get back to us with result on these repairs. I'm going to repair a brass tank with stress cracks.
     
  3. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber

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    I will Matti.

    One of the lanterns is the Trainite (Hong Kong) on the left in this photo.

    34A938EB-25BF-434E-B3D6-E0C04D625809.jpeg

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    The other lantern is THIS Tilley 246 on which the brass of the font base had become porous due to galvanic corrosion at some point in its life.

    D3C52785-1D16-4704-A3FE-38E7CA726096.jpeg


    Not stress cracks therefore and soldered repairs have kept it fuel tight under pressure so far but the POR15 treatment is to provide additional security against the potential for further leaks in future.

    8E91E72A-1202-40BF-95B3-2CAA1597D596.jpeg


    My main project though is a British New Governor camp stove which as a very rare item justifies the POR15 expense. The lanterns are a bonus.
     
  4. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    To anyone who is, or may be, put-off using POR 15 tank sealer because of the potential waste, read @Tony Press's post in this topic -
    AL620 Repair
     
  5. Thomas

    Thomas Subscriber

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  6. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    It may be a bit late for this tin.
    I was advised not to open the lid but turn it upside down and punch a hole in the bottom with a nail. Then use a syringe to suck out enough material to do the job. Plug the hole with something like the end of a small paintbrush.

    I have reused a tin several times over a two year period (so far).
     
  7. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @Henry Plews @Thomas @ROBBO55 @Tony Press Certainly for next time. The cleaning and metal prep chemicals in the kit I got were effective. Using a flexi-light to peer into the tanks after they’d done their stuff I was impressed with the extent of the transformation.

    Three more days or so to ‘cure’ and I’ll fuel up!
     
  8. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @presscall

    One of the things that I always do with this technique is to pressurise the tank when I am certain the coating has covered the areas I am trying to seal. This allows the coating to fill seams.

    I am always extremely vigilant using a tank that has been repaired in this way. I always mark them, so if they ever move on, the next person knows.

    I use a stresscracked Tilley R1 heater quite regularly, and it was treated this way a few years ago. Almost all my other PORs are shelf queens, only lit for demonstration.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  9. MYN

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    I believe POR-15 is a polyurethane-based sealer, not an epoxy-type. That's by judging from the a few basic ingredients found in the msds attached here.
    The problem is that it has the isocyanate curing agent pre-mixed into the product so that it becomes single-pack. Moisture would hasten curing too. It has naphtha and propanol as solvents in it too. I guess you could mix a little naphtha panel wipe to thin it a little so that its shelf life could be slightly prolonged after opening the tin. Storing it in a refrigerator might help.
    Other products that come in 2-pack (part A and part B) would last much longer since the hardener is not premixed.
     

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  10. Matti Kucer

    Matti Kucer Sweden Subscriber

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    I contacted the manufacturer some time ago, the answer for POR-15 was:

    Screenshot_20200807_173027_com.android.email.jpg
     
  11. MYN

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    It'll be better if the entire tin be completely used up once opened. But,..that is not always practical.
    The key is to keep the moisture out from the start by not opening the lid at all. What @Tony Press did and suggested was quite right on this respect.
    Because once the tin is opened, solvents would start to evaporate while moisture would set in immediately, especially if evaporation cools the contents further and augments condensation. Adding a little naphtha might retard this somewhat but too much it could be detrimental to the product properties.
    Since the product already has the cross-linking agent blended-in, just a small amount of surface moisture would trigger off or catalyzes a chain reaction throughout the entire pack and gel-up the contents eventually.(even after if you re-seal the lid after opening).
     
    Last edited: Aug 7, 2020
  12. george

    george United States Subscriber

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    Okay, I've used POR 15 on one of my Vapalux 300 with a steel tank (1943). I had very good luck with it. I must admit I was sceptical about using this stuff in a pressure vessel, but it worked a treat. This was several years ago and it's still holding! ( knock on wood)...
     

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