Primus 1020 leaking

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by vissertw, Nov 22, 2019.

  1. vissertw

    vissertw Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2016
    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Wormer Holland / Strömsdal Sweden
    Hello from Holland,

    I bought a 1020 in Sweden last summer, working on it now.
    Burning now, rather good, but not like it should.
    Having read this topic it might be a little too small mantle but I am not sure.
    What happens is a very small leakage on the bottom of the vaporizer giving the effect of fuel damping because of the heat.
    But I find it very difficult to screw the vaporizer tube on the box in a way there is no leakage.
    What could be the problem?

    Regards,

    Ton.
     
  2. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2014
    Messages:
    1,554
    Location:
    Somersby, New South Wales, Australia
    @vissertw

    G'day Ton, If I understand correctly this is where the leak is occurring?
    Primus 1020_2.jpg

    Three things come to mind.
    1. The threads are binding and not allowing the nut to tighten properly.
    Apply some copper of nickel grease before assembling.

    2. There is damage to the mating surfaces.
    Clean the surfaces with fine steel wool or emery paper.
    Apply some copper of nickel grease before assembling.

    3. The end of the vapouriser has work hardened which prevents it from sealing.
    I'm assuming there is a flange. (I have not seen a 1020 vapouriser)
    Slide the nut up the vapouriser and heat the flange to a nice red colour. This will anneal the mating surface.

    good luck
     
  3. vissertw

    vissertw Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2016
    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Wormer Holland / Strömsdal Sweden
    Thank you Martin, I assume that is your first name.

    I knew about applying copper grease, which I did.

    About the surface, I can have a second look on it.

    But the third tip, that might be a good one, like glowing copper rings to make them somehow weak again and giving them a second life.
    Should I hold the flange in water immediately after glowing to a nice red color?

    Regards,

    Ton.
     
  4. Carlsson

    Carlsson Sweden Admin/Founder Member

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2010
    Messages:
    3,486
    I wouldn't try to anneal the "flange". If you heat too much, it will come loose. And any way; it's brass, so you won't make it soft in the same way as if it were copper.

    It's actually a tapered fitting, and it is rare that it leaks.
    But when it does, it's generally because either surface has been nicked or burred. Check the surfaces better, and let us know what you see. Even a little scratch may cause a leak.
    You could try to mate them together better by using some valve grinding paste and rotate the vapouriser between your hands while pressing down on its seat, just as you do when lapping cylinder head valves.

    DSC_1948.JPG
     
  5. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2014
    Messages:
    1,554
    Location:
    Somersby, New South Wales, Australia
    @Carlsson @vissertw

    Thanks Christer for showing the construction at the base of the vapouriser. As I said, I have not seen one and assumed it might be a formed flange.
     
  6. george

    george United States Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2011
    Messages:
    1,364
    Location:
    USA
    Christer is 100% correct. All it takes is a tiny little nick and it won't seal correctly and starts leaking. I use steel wool, very fine (1000 fine I think they call it) and clean both parts. Then check closely to see if there are any burrs or scratches. The parts are brass and should seal without any leaks if there are no scratches.8]:thumbup:
     
  7. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

    Online
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    5,126
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    Steel wool 0000.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  8. MYN

    Offline
    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2018
    Messages:
    1,123
    Location:
    Malaysia
    Some pictures of your vaporizer would be useful. Sometimes, the threads of the gland nut might not be exactly matching to the lower part. (That's what I sometimes found between Petromax and its clones). But the Primus vaporizer is slightly different from most Petromax type lanterns although its still a variant of the Preston loop.
    Sometimes, a certain section of the threaded portion could be stripped, as mentioned by Martin. This could be repaired if you braze and re-machine them.
    As had been mentioned, the conical/tapered mating parts could also be rough or worn.
    Annealling or softening the brass is possible by heating and rapid cooling. Its actually opposed or contrary to the case of annealing steel, where the cooling is more gradual. But as Christer advised, you might end up loosening the part, in case of overheating if you are not careful.
     
  9. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Messages:
    2,310
    Location:
    Copenhagen, Denmark
    I have had one with a nick in the seat part (attached to the tank). No matter what I did it wouldn't seal. I ended up making a thin lead washer and fitted that between the parts and it has held so far. It hasn't had much use so I can't vouch for it as a long term solution.
     
  10. vissertw

    vissertw Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2016
    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Wormer Holland / Strömsdal Sweden
    I thought I fixed it, maybe more than that. I tested it by removing the jet, removing the cleaning needle and closing the hole on top on the outside.
    Closed the valve on the tanklid and started pumping, absolutely no loss of fuel on the vaporizer connection.
    Mounted all parts again, preheated, started pumping, and it is leaking again.
    And I am pretty sure all surfaces are in good condition and in my opinion it it should not need to be screwed together very hard, that is hardly possible, there is nothing to hold against with a second spanner.
    I think I will try the solution Nils suggested, make a small thin lead washer, that is the same solution some stove factories used to mount the burner on the fuel tank.
    I will be back to let you all know the result.

    Regards from Holland,

    Ton.
     
  11. phaedrus42

    phaedrus42 Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2014
    Messages:
    1,911
    If it leaks only when hot it may possibly be a crack rather than a joint leaking. Still fixable with silver solder, if you can find it, that is...
     
  12. MYN

    Offline
    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2018
    Messages:
    1,123
    Location:
    Malaysia
    Leaking only when hot? Then its likely a crack on the vaporizer as Phil said. Underwater test with air pressure should point the spot.
     
  13. vissertw

    vissertw Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2016
    Messages:
    13
    Location:
    Wormer Holland / Strömsdal Sweden
    Fixed! A tiny lead washer did the job, thanks for the idea Nils.

    Regards,

    Ton.
     
  14. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Messages:
    2,310
    Location:
    Copenhagen, Denmark
    It will be interesting to see if there are any long term issues with using a lead washer there.
     

Share This Page