Primus No.1050

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by KAB, Dec 22, 2017.

  1. KAB

    KAB Subscriber

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    Early Christmas gift

    DSC00313.JPG

    It is marked on the tank as a Primus No 1050. The glass is also marked as Primus and looks original.

    DSC00314.JPG DSC00315.JPG
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    Apart from the layer of corrosion, the main current issue is that all of the controls are seized.

    The hood comes off so I can remove gently remove the glass. Followed by soap and water and a little Autosol to play hunt the date code.

    Any suggestions on starting a more thorough dismantle (passing it on is not currently one of them :)[-( ) ??
     
  2. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    Congratulations on a nice present. Looks like lots of fun there.

    I wouldn't worry too much about the Autosol until all the parts are dismantled and cleaned. Looks like it needs a bath in penetrating oil. :) Everything is pretty straight forward, but note that the lever for the preheater is on a tapered shaft. I have found that putting a small spanner on the shaft then using the gland nut to apply pressure works (with some gentle taps). Another thing to be careful of is the NRV. It is a larger diameter than standard and they are like hens teeth. Uses the same removal tool though.

    My guess would be about 1935 to 1937.
     
  3. phaedrus42

    phaedrus42 Subscriber

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    A very nice Christmas present indeed! :mrgreen:

    To clean the enamel hood, just rub it with fine steel wool. No water, no soap, no polish. With old compromised enamel like that , water goes into or under it and lots of enamel then splinters off the moment it gets hot.

    To free the controls which are probably gummed up with fuel residue, try a little gentle heat from a small torch or lighter, keeping well clear of any plastic or soldered parts.

    Apart from the hood I would start by giving the whole lamp a sponge bath with hot soapy water. This will also give you a good idea of the condition of the plating so that you can decide on how to proceed with further fettling, cleaning and polishing.

    Carburettor cleaner spray is also useful for removing or softening old shellac-like hardened fuel residue.

    Good luck, it is a fine project.
     
  4. LanternTom

    LanternTom United States Subscriber

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    veey cool, can' wait to see it fettle and fired
     
  5. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    A fine gift indeed and happy fettling!:thumbup:
     
  6. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    It should clean up nicely. Congratulations. :clap:
     
  7. KAB

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    Slowly stripping and freeing up the parts. I have worked down to the nut that holds the cage to the top of the vavle, but the cage won’t come off even though it is loose........ do i need to unscrew the top of the valve unit?
     
  8. KAB

    KAB Subscriber

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    Having cleaned the base I have fount the date stamp .... Y so 1934.

    I am still looking for advice on weather the threaded portion separates from the valve so I can get the frame apart from the tank??
     
  9. phaedrus42

    phaedrus42 Subscriber

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    Close-up photo please?
     
  10. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    Once you have the generator and the air tubes off, there is an aluminium plate that needs to come up which will reveal a nut holding the frame to the tank. From memory, the flame tube for the preheater needs to be screwed off first as well. The aluminium plate can be quite corroded and stuck tight to the valve block. To remove the collar, the valve wheel and shaft need to be removed as well as the preheater lever (and shaft?). Once again, the collar can be quite stuck to the frame so you might have to remove this as one assembly.
     
  11. KAB

    KAB Subscriber

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    image.jpg

    The lock nut above the cage has been freed but the cage still seems to be held below the top of the valve unit.
    Does the treaded part unscrew from the valve?
    It has flattened sides as to take a spanner but I don’t want to damage the valve below if its not meant to give :-k
     
  12. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    No, that part does not come off. It could be that the collar is stuck to the cage frame. This happens quite regularly. Otherwise it is probably a case of a bit of persuasion. If I remember correctly, the jet for the pre-heater unscrews, if that helps.
     
  13. LanternTom

    LanternTom United States Subscriber

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    I am trying to remove the preheated lever from my 1050. I removed the small nut off of it but, it windy come off. When I try to spin it off the lever hits the tank. Need help. 20180306_153603.jpg
     
  14. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    If I remember correctly, the part of the shaft where the lever sits is square and slightly tapered. Give it some penetrating oil and let it sit overnight. Put a small wrench (or similar) behind the lever and with a screwdriver between that and the jamb nut, gently pry the lever off. The small wrench takes up the slack and gives a bigger area to pry against.

    Henry.
     
  15. LanternTom

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    Thank you Henry, I will do that.....

    Tom
     
  16. LanternTom

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    What is the correct leather pump cup size for the 1050?
     
  17. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    As Henry said, the shaft is tapered but it is round. I usually use a small spanner between the lever and the jamb nut, then undo the jamb nut pushing on the spanner. It can be a tight fit so be careful.
     
  18. Carlsson

    Carlsson Sweden Admin/Founder Member

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    Here's another way to release the lever from the taper, but both methods work well.
    Above all, you have a picture there to get an idea of how the spindle look once the lever is removed.

    You can also use two pair of pliers on each side to make the force totally in line with the spindle.
     
  19. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom Founder Member Subscriber

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    The pump tube is 17mm and the centre hole in the leather will be 8 or 9mm. If you want to make a leather the outer blank dia is about 24mm with centre hole 8mm. ::Neil::
     
  20. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    Actually the pump tube on these lamps is 21mm. It is larger than all the other lamps. The centre hole is the same.
     
  21. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom Founder Member Subscriber

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    Really 21mm?? That is huge. I just measured a 1051 I had to hand at 17mm and I assumed they were pretty well the same lantern. I have a parts list for 1050 which lists the pump leather as part 4927 but I don't have a parts list for 1051 to compare with. 21mm is the same as a Coleman (actually 20mm) so Coleman pump leathers will fit and work OK. ::Neil::
     
  22. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    The difference with the 1050/1051 is the change in generation of the lamps. The earlier ones had the "standard" size pump leather, but the later ones had the larger size. It must have been one of the earlier ones you measured.
     
  23. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom Founder Member Subscriber

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    Ah I didn't know that. I have 6 of these lanterns somewhere and the latest is dated AB so I will have to see if I can find it.
     
  24. LanternTom

    LanternTom United States Subscriber

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    Everything worked out with the preheated lever. I also had my own valve tool made and it worked perfectly. I got it disassembled and making headway stripping the green paint off the collar and frame.....Thanks to all for the help 20180311_150529.jpg 20180311_145115.jpg 20180311_145131.jpg
     
  25. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

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    @LanternTom

    I like the NRV removal tool improvisation!

    Looking forward to seeing this up and running.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  26. LanternTom

    LanternTom United States Subscriber

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    @Tony Press

    I have an NRV made for my Aladdin 1A also. They work well.

    Tom
     
  27. KAB

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    @LanternTom
    You have managed to get further than me with the cage. Mine seems to be caught between the hex fitting and the thread below the lock nut. Did yours just lift off once the lock nut was undone?
     
  28. LanternTom

    LanternTom United States Subscriber

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    @KAB,
    it does..I had so much paint the collar and frame were stuck together. once I got the valve knob and preheated lever off the frame and collar came off. They didn' come off super easy they were stuck but eventually came off...
     
  29. LanternTom

    LanternTom United States Subscriber

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    is the valve assembly removable from the fount. There is a chance the the fuel pickup tube has got some old fuel gummed up in it. I go pump up and I don't get any hissing or fuel being drawn up...Need advice..

    Tom
     
  30. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    The valve assembly is soldered to the tank. It all depends on how skilled and adventurous you are. Unfortunately the pick up tube is not inline with opening at the top of the valve. The only way to clear it is to use some carby cleaner or similar and blow compressed air back through the tube.
     

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