Radius 119 cracked Inner Chimney

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Wai, Oct 3, 2020.

  1. Wai

    Wai United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2020
    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    London, UK
    I just received a Radius 119 today and unfortunately it has a cracked inner chimney which the seller neglected to mention.

    I'm guessing this can't be used safely until repaired / replaced?

    I ordered some JB Weld (high temp adhesive) to try and fill in the cracks.

    20201003_222154.jpg 20201003_222129.jpg
     
  2. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2014
    Messages:
    1,318
    Location:
    North Yorkshire
    Personally, I'd get it repaired before using it. I have no experience of any JB Weld products so can't comment on your choice. Have you considered silver solder, or are the cracks too wide ?
     
  3. Wai

    Wai United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2020
    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    London, UK
    The cracks are quite small. Unfortunately I don't have a blow torch or high content silver solder, just a soldering iron and fairly low temp solder - I'm guessing around 200C.

    Would using one of those old paraffin powered blow torches be sufficient?
     
  4. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    6,482
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    I might have that part from a wrecked Aladdin 1A (that is a copy of the Radius 119).

    If you want it, letnme know.

    Tony

    @Wai
     
  5. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

    Online
    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2010
    Messages:
    2,631
    Location:
    Copenhagen, Denmark
    I really dont think the performance of the lamp will be affected by the cracks, but it would still be a good idea to fix it. I would straighten things up a bit then silver solder it. Maybe you know someone who has the gear to do silver soldering.
     
  6. Rangie

    Rangie Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2012
    Messages:
    230
    Location:
    Caithness, Far North of Scotland
    I would agree with the thorough cleaning/light acid clean and silver-solder repair technique suggested.
    Perhaps you can find someone to do this for you.

    Alec.
     
  7. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom Founder Member Subscriber

    Online
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2010
    Messages:
    6,290
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    I would clean it and silver solder. JB Weld Extreme heat paste is supposed to be good up to 1300C. Not a product I have ever tried but may be OK for the job as I doubt the part gets much over 400c. A low temp solder will not work in that location as it will surely melt. ::Neil::
     
  8. george

    george United States Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2011
    Messages:
    2,448
    Location:
    USA
    JB Weld "might" work... that's a lot of heat though. I agree with everyone else, I would silver solder it. Regular solder won't hold it. I've been there, done that!
     
  9. Wai

    Wai United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2020
    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    London, UK
    Thank you for all the suggestions. Taking the chimney apart, I could see that the cracks were caused by pushing onto the top of the vapourising tube which seems to be half a cm too long, thus causing the deformation.
    Since the chimney part is fairly thin brass, I managed to push it back, however fitting it back in caused it to deform a little again.

    20201006_221031.jpg

    I checked the well where the vapourising tube sits and could see an old lead washer stuck in there but nothing else that would cause this issue, so possibly a incorrect replacement vapouriser or the gallery is a replacement and not long enough. The former seems more likely. The tube itself was slightly bent so I straightened it a little.

    Taking apart the inner hood, I could easily access the top of the hole and I used some of the JB Weld paste. It required 2 applications as the first attempt cracked after replacing the hood and caused some deformation:
    20201006_221140.jpg

    I waited 12 hours and lit it. I haven't changed the existing nipple and needle, which seemed ok. It is very bright with a slight hiss:
    20201007_011836.jpg

    I will check the JB Weld after a few uses. And yes it is the extreme heat version which can tolerate temperatures up to 1300C.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2020
  10. Wai

    Wai United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2020
    Messages:
    10
    Location:
    London, UK
    Tony - thank you very much for the offer. I fear a replacement would suffer a similar fate to the original part unless I can troubleshoot why the vapourising tube is too long.
     
  11. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Messages:
    10,322
    Location:
    Shetland Islands UK..
    Well saved!:thumbup::thumbup:
     
  12. Tony Press

    Tony Press Australia Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Aug 28, 2012
    Messages:
    6,482
    Location:
    Stinkpot Bay, Howden, Tasmania, Australia
    It’s looking good, so far.

    Tony
     
  13. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2015
    Messages:
    2,847
    Location:
    Toowoomba Australia
    Well done, looking good so far.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  14. george

    george United States Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2011
    Messages:
    2,448
    Location:
    USA
    Just wondering, would it have been even necessary to do anything with this other than straighten it just a bit?
     

Share This Page