RADIUS 119 JET CLEANING ROD REMOVAL

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by ROGER BAKER, Jun 21, 2019.

  1. ROGER BAKER

    ROGER BAKER Subscriber

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    Good day all.
    I've just started trying to sort out a 119, and in its history the cleaning rod has been broken off just above the eccentric block. Whilst it seems financially feasible to replace this with an aftermarket rod from one of the Korean chaps, I'm a bit stuck as to how to remove the remains of the old rod as it's stuck pretty fast. It moves but only a couple of inches. Can't tell if its soot holding it.... There's no needle in the holder, and no jet, but it's hard to decide whether it pushes up and out or withdraws at the bottom. Last thing I want is to break off the jet cleaner holder off the other end of the rod or leave it stuck inside somewhere... Maybe someone can offer guidance on all or any of the above please! IMG_3612.JPG
     
  2. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    G'day Roger, the rod should pull out the bottom of the vapouriser. I would suggest a carbon build up is stopping it from coming out. You might have to try removing some of the carbon first.
     
  3. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    Heat and quench is as good a way as any. Get the offending part red hot then plunge it into cold water. You may have to repeat the operation but once will usually suffice.

    Henry.
     
  4. ROGER BAKER

    ROGER BAKER Subscriber

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    Thank you both for taking the time to respond.

    I've poured hot caustic soda through this, heated and quenched it, and still the rod comes out 65mm from the bottom orifice as it did before. It feels as though there is more of a physical restriction than it does a build up of carbon. Almost as if the narrowing section at the bottom is the sticking point, and possibly did Radius braze these together with the needle carrier whatever that looks like, shoved inside ? I've another one on a different 119 that previously resisted attempts to remove, and it's a faff engaging the pin in the block by feel alone.

    I'm probably going to try burning this again, but the rod can be snatched out as far as it will go,and it sticks quite firmly at that point. The rod seems capable of being unscrewed, so I'm wondering whether to get the needle holder end stuck, unthread the rod and make a new one. I guess it will be some BA thread or other.

    As before, any wisdom and guidance most gratefully recieved...Cheers, Roger
     
  5. Carlsson

    Carlsson Sweden Admin/Founder Member

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    Yes, the cleaning needle rod for the 119 is extremely easy to make. Anyone can make one.
    The threads are M2, though, so you will need to get an M2 die.

    I have made several of these out of a 2 mm stainless rod. The type you use to add material when TIG welding. They have different sizes, and 2 mm is one.
    Length should be 127 mm, and the threaded part at the bottom is about 8 mm. The upper part where the needle attach via the coupling sleeve is about 4 mm.
    It's most likely that sleeve that are the cause of your troubles in getting the rod out. Since it's much thicker than the rod, it tend to get stuck in the carbon deposits that has formed up in the vapouriser. It's just to keep on heating and quenching. Heating and tapping. And attempt to pull the rod. Eventually you will get it all out.

    Here's some pics of one I made out of the stainless pin. The locking nut is not attached to the excenter bloc. It's just to show the rod and it's tiny threads:
    119_1.JPG
    119_2.JPG
     
  6. ROGER BAKER

    ROGER BAKER Subscriber

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    Thank you very much for the advice and the pictures. I've pal who worked at Rolls-Royce who has all manner of machine tools so he may well be able to help with a 2mm die.

    I wonder if you have a picture of the needle holder at the other end please so I can see what I'm trying to dislodge? I'm going to have another go at heating this up later. It struck me that maybe there are some deposits on that holder itself, and it might not have got enough heat on it as it was loose inside. I reckon if I get it "lightly stuck" at the obstruction, perhaps the heat transference might help if it's in contact with the outside. There is a join, and a narrowing in the vaporiser just above the gland nut, and I wonder if that's the internal restriction I'm struggling to get it past. Pic attached.
    Thanks once again, Roger. IMG_3613.JPG
     
  7. ROGER BAKER

    ROGER BAKER Subscriber

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    Hello again, and thank you all who have contributed. It's now out after using two blow torches rather than just one ! :)
    I'm still stuck for jet and a cleaning needle, so if anyone can suggest a cost effective way of going about it please advise.
    Cheers, Roger.
     
  8. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    Hi @ROGER BAKER
    There is a Korean person, lovelantern2014, that sells these parts on the bay of evil.
    I’ve purchase these for an Aladdin version of the 119.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2019
  9. ROGER BAKER

    ROGER BAKER Subscriber

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    Thank you Pete. I'll look at that. I've had a couple of things from that seller over the years, and always felt it was a good experience.
    TTFN, Roger
     
  10. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Would it be possible to utilise a petromax style threaded needle tip and attach it to the pricker shaft so it can be replaced?
     
  11. ROGER BAKER

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    Hello ColinG and thank you for your message. I'm thinking the Petromax jets et al are a different thread, as well as other Optimus and the like.
    I've managed to remove a pricker wire that was stuck in a jet before now, and successfully crimp it back into the holder, so many things can be possible if you have something to work with, and could find the correct gauge wire. I simply do not have a jet for this and may well have to suck up the cost of a Korean replacement. Cheers, Roger.
     
  12. Carpedien1982

    Carpedien1982 Sweden Subscriber

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    Hi guys! I did it to :( break the rod, i mean.
    I know that the post is little older but... I was searching for wire 2mm and found that is seling also bras wire 2mm diam(about 4 usd/euro for 3m lobg wire, postage about 6-7 usd) . In this way is possible to make it as original.
    The other way i found, and is gonna be the way i go for now, is that the bicycle rod has 2mm diam. So i'm going to a bike repair shop and, maybe, i can make also the thread.
    Best regards, Frank
    IMG_20190731_090347.jpg
     
  13. ROGER BAKER

    ROGER BAKER Subscriber

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    Hello Frank. Sad news, but I think breaking them is seemingly not uncommon. Mine came broken, and without the jet or cleaning tip, so I had to buy those from love lantern in Korea. I also bought a brass cap as that was missing too, but from a different seller. I have a "tame" ex Rolls-royce engineer friend who made the new rod for me out of brazing rod. He turned it down slightly and used a BA die to thread it as he didn't have a 2mm one. Worked out very well, and I now have a spectacular golden oldie. I hope you find a way to get yours up and running. Love lantern does sell these rods if you get stuck.

    They have a most companionable "chuckle" unlike others that just sit there and hiss ! I'm getting more attached to them as time goes by and they don't guzzle paraffin as fast as some of my other regular choice, table centre pieces.
    All the best, Roger.

    IMG_3949.JPG
     
  14. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    @ROGER BAKER thats a nice looking lamp there.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  15. Tony Press

    Tony Press Antarctica Subscriber

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    The Australian Aladdin 1A is essentially a copy of the Radius 119.

    I wonder are these pricker parts interchangeable.

    I’ll dig out a wrecked one in the shed.

    Tony
     
  16. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    @Tony Press I’m reasonably sure they are interchangeable. Now years ago, my very first fettle was an Aladdin 1A and it had a broken pricker rod. I bought a replacement from the mentioned above Korean bay of evil guys. It fitted and works well.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  17. ROGER BAKER

    ROGER BAKER Subscriber

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    I do love this lamp, although I do have a later version with a more horizontal pump, and different handle. That has been knocked about a bit and not quite so pretty. All the same it runs very sweetly, and I don't mind charring the hood on it, so it gets a bit more daily use. I've been unable to remove the cleaning tip or the rod, so without an express need to, I'm leaving that just as it is. Old saying;- "Never trouble trouble 'til trouble troubles you"
     
  18. Carpedien1982

    Carpedien1982 Sweden Subscriber

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    Nice lamp! I'm looking fir a M2 threader now. For few years ago, the bike repair shop had those, but now they don't bother doing again the rods, they just put new one.
    I tried the lamp with the broken rod and is working but i think that the siphon is clogged. I had the lamp dismantled and ful with liquid and under presure it was just little water coming up.
    How can i clean that? I think that it is soldered and the tank is marked with a "L" (1922?)
    /Frank
    IMG_20190801_212631.jpg
     
  19. ROGER BAKER

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    Hello Frank. I'm not sure what you mean when you refer to the Syphon. If you have got the rod and the jet cleaning end out of it you should be able to see straight through it. The prescribed way of cleaning the Preston loop part, is to use a piece of thin inner Boden cable (I used an old throttle cable off a motorbike cut into 10" lengths) and after kinking the end to get it started inside the orifice, rotating the cable using a hand drill brace. Best holding it in a vice....You need the use heat to loosen the carbon too, and be prepared to change the cable when it gets frayed as you don't want to leave a strand behind in there ! All this can take some time, patience and a lot of care. I found that using the cable and turning it in a direction so the end didn't splay out made it more like a drill tip than a chimney sweeping brush.
    I hope that helps.
    BTW, I had a lot of soot compacted at the bottom of the control valve housing under the square block that had settled there, so much so, that you couldn't get the control knob to rotate fully. You could have cloggages in the feed tube rising from the tank also. All worth a good clean out in any case.
    Many things to consider !
    TTFN
    Roger.
     
  20. Carpedien1982

    Carpedien1982 Sweden Subscriber

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    Syphon i call the pipe what is inside the tank and is aspirating the fuel.
     
  21. ROBBO55

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    @Carpedien1982

    To clean the feed tube (syphon) you have to remove the control cock. It is screwed onto a spigot that is soldered into the font. It has a lead seal. There may be a filter screen in the spigot that may be blocked. It can be cleaned. The feed tube won't come out so clean it with a piece of wire or cable.

    To remove the control cock soak the thread with a penetrating oil for several days.
    Hold the cock in a padded vice and rotate the font.
     

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