Radius No 119 failing to launch

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Pdebruyn, Jul 26, 2020.

  1. Pdebruyn

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    I have been fortunate to buy this well-used, but cared for Radius No. 119 (300cp). The glass is original and it appears complete. I have dismantled and cleaned it out of old insects nests. The pressure release valve was opened and cleaned and appears in working order. I have fashioned a new leather plunger washer for the pump that works. The pressure release valve was found to be leaking air between it and the tank, so I installed a fiber washer that has cured the problem.

    I am still using a double-tie mantle as I have been able to find a single-tie mantle. May this be the reason for the lamp failing to start up? It burns softly with smoke.

    Could the reason be that the lamp is getting too much fuel to the mantle? The jet hole is open. I suspect that the red adjustment knob or the needle inside the generator may not be set up correctly.

    What is the correct sequence to starting up the Radius?
     

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  2. Fireexit1

    Fireexit1 United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Welcome.
    I am no expert in Radius lamps but they follow standard lighting procedure. Pre-heat with Meths/Alcohol with vent open. When heater flames just dying down close vent and pump. Should go "pop" and light up.
    Chris
     
  3. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    Hello @Pdebruyn and welcome to the forum.

    A double tie mantle will be O.K. but the bottom string must be tied as tight as possible so that if there is still a hole, it is only very small.

    Yes, it is possible that the lantern is getting too much fuel. Usually, this is because the hole in the jet has become enlarged. The red wheel is not for adjustment, it only works the cleaning needle. When the notch in the wheel is at the top, the needle should be down, when the needle is up there should be between 0.5mm and 1.0mm poking through the jet.

    Henry
     
  4. phaedrus42

    phaedrus42 Subscriber

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    What Chris says. Fill fount with paraffin. Fuel cap closed, pricker control wheel down, air release screw open.
    Fill alcohol pre-heat cup (ring shaped) with methylated spirit from a spirit dispensing bottle with a spout and light it. Wait until the spirit is almost burned out, close the air release screw and then start pumping slowly and steadily. The lamp will light. Continue pumping until the lamp burns brightly and the hissing sound becomes a bit louder. This could take approximately 30-50 pump strokes. Rotate the pricker control full circle quickly to ensure the jet is clear. The pump uses a standard primus stove type leather cup and non-return valve.
     
  5. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    I hope that was a typo, as it should be the opposite. Notch up, needle up.

    To start the lamp, you fill the preheat cup with methylated spirits (alcohol) and light. The pressure release screw should be open and the cleaning needle down. When the metho is almost burnt out, close the pressure release screw and then give 5 to 10 pumps. When the mantle lights, start pumping slowly until you can't really pump any more. If there are flames outside the mantle, it would indicate that it is getting too much fuel. Most likely an enlarged jet.

    Crossed with Phil.
     
  6. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Welcome aboard!:thumbup:
     
  7. Pdebruyn

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    Thanks all! Will try the process again, I suspect I have also not build enough pressure. With the pressure release safety valve now cleaned and checked I should be OK. The cleaning needle does not protrude when I turn the pricker control. Is the needle assembly adjustable in length and should one try?

    Will update you on progress!
     
  8. phaedrus42

    phaedrus42 Subscriber

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    The needle may be bent over or could have broken or rusted away. Unscrew the jet and have a look. The Radius quality control and parts tolerance was quite good so all needles would have been very close to the same length when new. You can screw the conducting rod in and out of the eccentric block but you would not normally need to do that when changing needles. You will need to remove the upper vapouriser and also the control wheel assembly from the lower vapouriser to take out and adjust the conducting rod assembly length.
     
  9. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    Not a typo. Instructions say "when the mark on the handwheel is turned upwards, the nozzle is open."
    1954 Radius 119 Instru
     
  10. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    @Henry Plews
    Sorry about that. I stand corrected. I have never seen a 119 set up that way though. Just like all other lamps, the ones I have seen have the notch following the needle.
     
  11. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    No worries. When I first got my own 119 and found the needle was down when the notch was up, I thought a previous owner had put the wheel back on the wrong way up so changed it round to match other lamps in my collection. It wasn't until I got the chance to read a copy of the instructions that I found out that it had been configured correctly. Why Radius had to be different, is anyone's guess.
     
  12. george

    george United States Subscriber

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    Can't remember which end is up these days. I'll have to check my 119 and see.
    :-k
     
  13. Pdebruyn

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    I assume that the purpose of the forum is to frustrate other members with our self inflicted problems!

    I suspect that my needle assembly is broken. I have seen post that talks about a fix for this.

    My most immediate problem is that I have managed to break the plastic "washer of the filler cap/pressure release. I have two questions:

    1. Is it possible to make one? I would not be close to a place that stocks spares
    2. IS the sequence and position of the parts correct in the photo. "Note to self: take pictures as you take things apart!"
     
  14. Pdebruyn

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    Struggling to upload photo. Will try again tomorrow.
     
  15. Alex Smith

    Alex Smith United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @Pdebruyn Many, many problems are self inflicted when fettling a lantern - you are certainly not the first to be resolving such issues.
     
  16. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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  17. Pdebruyn

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    That is fantastic! I still have hope. Much appreciated feedback
     
  18. presscall

    presscall United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @Pdebruyn
    Since contributing to that post on CCS on Radius seals and after swapping thoughts with BernieDawg on the topic, we’re agreed that the seal needn’t be ‘dished’. They’re likely to have been punched out of flat sheet and ‘set’ or harden into that shape as a result of heat and pressure following extended use.

    (Those black discs with the radial holes in my photo)

    C92CAECF-D649-4493-BB51-8405620C4E6D.jpeg

    John
     
  19. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    Well I make them out of 1mm flat sheet and they work fine. The spacing of the holes might be a bit off, but it still works. I think the important part is that the brass shim is still in good condition. I have seen some where it is cracked and falling apart.
     

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