Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Julian Whittaker, Aug 3, 2022.
Just be patient; very clean; and gentle.
Much appreciate your advice Tony. I have all the right stuff (brother is a jeweller) so I'll do some tests with solders, see how I go.
If it all works I think it could be good reference for others who might want to do the same thing.
Manufacturers just crimp them. It's easy, it's quick and it's cheap.
Yes... and it strikes me that the git wound strings have for example - a D string, a core of 0.010, which can be sanded to fit the jet, but the outer winding fits perfectly inside my brass tubing, making for a nicely centralised core wire, and a nice easy crimp. I'll try it now.
Well Sands sent me a new pricker to suit my Aladdin A1. It needed a little grinding off the thread so it would sit low enough in the jet. Got that OK, but even though it sticks up above the jet orifice about 1mm, it still 'floods' even when the needle is fully up. Seems to me either the pricker wire is too fine, or the jet is too big. So typically I'll get a little stream of kero out of the jet even though the needle is fully up. Booga!
What do you mean, “floods”?
If you mean the jet still emits kerosene with the pricker up, it’s normal. The pricker in an Aladdin 1A is not a shut-off.
Woops! Radius 119. But the same applies.
In a thread here recently I noted that NOS Radius 119 pricker wires are slightly larger in diameter to NOS Aladdin 1A prickers. That shouldn’t matter in your case, though.
Thanks Tony, yes I observed it 'nekkid', and saw a fine jet of kero even with the needle full up which I (obviously incorrectly) assumed was too much kero.
I did a quick test without mantle, and got nice blue jets, but it was accompanied by some yellow flame above.
I'll now put a mantle on it and see how she runs.
The older Radius 119 variant has the same position as the A1, high up on the rim of the tank, and that's the model the Aladdin A1 was based up on.
I’ve had success with copper electrical crimps for cleaning needle repairs, one fine crimp for joining two broken ends and/or two inside each other to create a base block at the bottom of the needle.
Well, success! (though with slight reservations). It's not that bright, but usable, -I'll check it tonight. The pricker doesn't shut it down, it 'almost' shuts it down but not fully. I'd have to purge tank pressure to stop it I think. It did have a very small yellow flame coming from just around the centre nut that screws to the fount. I'll see if that persists.
Good to see it running anyway.
Thanks for your help lads.
Ooh, just out of interest I measured my new pricker wire at 0.13mm. Perhaps a little thin? (Though how accurate the vernier gauge is down to hundredths of a mm I don't know).
As I said above, the Radius 119 (and the Aladdin 1A, which is based on the Radius 119) are not designed to be shut off bt the pricker. They are shut off by purging the tank.
I spoke too soon. Upon relighting it, it gave nothing more than a dull orange glow. Ah well back to the DB!
Found the problem... the filler cap seal was ancient and over compressed, so I think it was losing pressure, I put an o-ring in and it ran okay for a couple of hours, so maybe it's a user.
You are spot on as usual. Funny enough I’ll go to the next and it will be different. Hny when it rolls Tony.I have all sorts ( not licorice) on order,acupuncture needles …….brass tube. You are a valuable source of knowledge and made a friend here in New Zealand.
CCT crimp repair sounds interesting, any chance of a photograph or two please?
Thanks @Tive , I didn't realize that.
Just to add a bit more detail to the design timeline. The Aladdin 12A was the same as the pre 1934 Radius 119 (Radius made all the Aladdin 12A and 14A models). This had the higher positioned pump and the winged filler cap with pressure release etc. The Aladdin 1A was based on the 12A but simplified some parts.
@X246A - I’ve used them a couple of times now with success but could only find this one photo.
Thanks, looks like a good workable solution for someone like me who neither has the skills or machinery and tooling to turn new parts.
Yep, same reason I have to get creative. Not sure I could fit a lathe in the garage anyway!
What diameter are they?... These are the 'crimps' I assume, I can't seem to get scale. Also DuBro brass tubing comes in a useful range of sizes (at your local Model Shop - if they still exist!)
I bought an assorted set 1-6mm
250Pcs GT1-6mm Copper Tube Butt Wire Ferrule Cable Crimp Connectors Terminal Kit | eBay
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