Solex 200 Tools Hi All. I have three sizes of extractors for the NRV valve of the two flat-sided type, and none of them fit the NRV valve in the Solex 200. It appears to be a slightly larger size. I'm not a machinist, and don't know where to go from here. Can I purchase or borrow a suitable tool ? Can't measure the head of the valve while it's in the pump. Also, I will need to modify a thin, wide screwdriver to remove the nut which secures the hand wheel on the eccentric shaft. Anyone familiar with this ? This is another lantern which has been run on stinky lamp oil, hence every nut and thread is carboned up and seized. Cheers. Paul.
Paul, best to measure it. In this situation I sometimes stick a lump of plasticine or similiar on the end of one of those nrv tools and gently put it down the pump tube and take a very light impression of the NRV, which you can then measure. Note that whatever you use for the impression may block the NRV, but I presume that your removing the nrv because it isn’t working properly.
Thank you, good idea. Then to cut and file a slot in the end of a 5/8" bar. Good point - I'm only assuming that the NRV needs attention. It's highly likely though. I'll leave it to last, see how it goes. The fun part will be to thin down a 10 m/m wide blade, to fit the nut on the control wheel. It appears to be well made, the Solex. And fairly simple. I like the built-in spirit tray, a one piece pressing in the base plate, and access for a match from the side. Must have been expensive press tooling. Can you advise on the correct pump cup please ? The pump bore is approx. 16.93 m/m, so perhaps it takes the same cup as in the Aladdin A1 ? Thanks again. Paul.
Hullo All. There's a pack of cheap speedbore bits at Bunnings for $7.98, 'Craftright', 10 pieces. They make good drivers for other purposes, as in the photo, and have saved me from further depleting my stock of Irwin speedbores.
Money Shot - Solex 200 C As expected, the NRV was blocked solid with carbon. What I don't understand is that if all the burning is done upstairs, why do large flakes of black carbon accumulate in the font ? Curiously, the weight of the font is taken by one small 3/16" screw which secures the base plate to the casting of the eccentric housing. Thanks, gentlemen, for your kind advice and guidance.
Alex - yes, I was quite pleased to have the Solex running. Especially after refurbishing the Aladdin A1 also. But the success has come at a cost, hard lessons learnt. The new mantle quickly developed a small hole; I saw it but let it go, thinking it would be o.k. since no flame was coming out. Well it marked the glass so I shut it down and put it aside, and later in the cold night the glass cracked. So I've ruined the original Made in Italy glass. 88 x 106 m/m high. A bloke should know better - I've read the warnings somewhere, not to run a lantern with a hole in the mantle. Don't know if new globes are obtainable. Worse was to follow. I fitted a new mantle, S2 (S3 have been discontinued I believe), and hung the lantern outside during tea time, noticed that it was very hot at the font. Well, it went out, and close inspection revealed a hole in the bottom of the mantle, so no wonder the font was pretty hot. The bottom centre of the mantle had simply opened out to a hole of about 10 - 12 m/m dia. The heat did a bit of damage below, melted the gland packing sleeve around the eccentric shaft, so I had the devil of a job to free up the shaft and repack it with graphite, and to clean out the eccentric block housing. This lantern burns extremely brightly, and I wonder why ? Perhaps the jet is worn oversize ? So that it passes excess fuel, giving a brighter light with more heat ? Is this why new jets are usually fitted to old lanterns ? Due to my complacency, made my own misfortune. These S2 mantles don't give trouble in other lanterns, at least not so far. But two holes in a row ? Perhaps better mantles are required, plus a new jet. I may briefly fire up this lantern under low pressure, and only run it occasionally. Can anyone point me in the direction of a new glass and jet ? Come to think of it, the font I flushed out twice with kerosene, but tonight I flushed it with clear Metho, which came out a yellow colour, so I assume that the kero did not get all the old lamp oil out. And perhaps the mixture of kerosene and the remnant lamp oil is the reason for the higher temperature and brighter light, as well as the worn jet ?
@Paul Aslanides Ouch, but we have all been there. I have cracked more than one glass ignoring a small hole in the mantle. I think it is one lesson we learn the hard way, despite the best advice. My sympathy is with you on this one. I've a small Optimus and small Petromax lantern rated at 250CP. Similar sized lanterns to yours. They do burn bright, and seem to run warm/hot, especially the top of the fount area. Maybe further running, under supervision, will help pin point any issues. I tend to use good quality mantles, if that is any help. Regards, Alex
The glass is the same size as most 200cp Px style lamps use, so they are available. The straight sided glass that Austramax used recently is also the same size. Try Sands.
@Paul Aslanides , These 200-250cp lanterns are similar to the Petromax 821/827. They can be quite intense, in that they could produce more heat than what their size and mass could dissipate, as compare to the 300/350cp ones. I've got a similar size Petromax that seemed to be delivering a light output that nearly matched the 350hk ones. The fount was next to untouchable after operating for an hour or so. I guess, could be due to a slightly worn jet. The mixer J-tube is much shorter than the 300/350hk lanterns. That'll increase the likelihood of the surging fuel-air mixture to puncture the mantle upon initial light-up. Use a lower operating pressure. That'll reduce the light output, temperature/heat and chances of bursting any mantles. A Coleman #21 mantle could also be used instead of the usual bulbous ones. They are quite strong but the light would be a little more yellowish compared to the original radioactive ones.
Paul, I use Luxor 200 - 300CP mantles, from a bay seller in Germany. 10 X Mantle LUXOR 200/300CP 250HK F. Hasag Petromax Glow Body Mantles | eBay He posts world wide. Regards, Alex
Thank you, MYN. Yes, I'll keep the pressure down, and give just a few pumps more often. At least two other lanterns I have also put out a brilliant bright light, and run hot. The Coleman 249 Scout and the Handi. So I'll be more wary in the future. Cheers. Paul.
Yes, the Coleman 249 burns pretty hot, similarly. Its output could almost approach that of a 237 but its not anything larger than a 242.
"Alex Smith, post: 130709, member: 4553"]Paul, I use Luxor 200 - 300CP mantles, from a bay seller in Germany. 10 X Mantle LUXOR 200/300CP 250HK F. Hasag Petromax Glow Body Mantles | eBay He posts world wide. Regards, Alex". Thank you, Alex. I'll purchase some asap. Cheers. Paul. '
