Stinky Pete the Petromax and the Pelikan wreck!

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by ColinG, Apr 29, 2020.

  1. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    I've been fiddling with my one and only genuine Petromax trying to cure it's stinky ways. This has been going on for a few months now and I thought I'd cracked it at last but not quite.

    The culprit was the jet and how it locates onto the top of the Preston loop. I added some copper based thread compound in an attempt to seal any leaks but it didn't work! Instead I saw tiny bubbles coming from the joint but at least that was confirmation. I spent nearly a day filing, checking, adding black marker to see where the two surfaces weren't mating. After months of fiddling it's maybe *80% better than it was but it's not cured yet and I can't really be bothered! It needs a new Preston loop vaporiser as I suspect the jet thread has been badly cut but I'm not going to go any further with it... at least for a while.

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    Next was the Pelikan. A Chinese Petromax clone that is currently whispering away on the coffee table.

    It came to me in a poor state and I genuinely thought it would be great for parts but with lock-down time needing to be filled I thought I'd see how far I could go.

    Just about every chrome plated steel component was severely rusted and it's taken 4 days of intense work to get back to bare metal. I'd guess the fount is roughly 50% chrome and 50% bare steel. The same applies to the collar and frame but the hood was a touch better.

    Also, the frame rods all fell off and had to be drilled, tapped and screwed back into position. The pricker rod was set a bit to high so I adjusted that and then the aluminum bail screws needed to be re-engineered as they were just plain wrong!

    After all that I reassembled it, added a Butterfly mantle, filled it with kero, primed it with meths and started her up. Lit first time! It needs a full pre-heat or it flares a bit but it's now been working for about 45 minutes and it although it looks like an utter travesty, it works well and at least it doesn't smell! It even has a working pressure gauge!

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    Last edited: Apr 29, 2020
  2. X246A

    X246A United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @ColinG

    Looking good as per usual. More evidence to reinforce your preference for clones rather than originals.

    Regards Jeremy
     
  3. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    The clone looks rough but it works well!:thumbup::thumbup:

    If you have a 500cp Anchor lantern which is only fit for spares, then the vapouriser will fit the Petromax.
     
  4. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Thanks Jeremy, the thing is, I'm not sure what do do with it! By rights it should go with the rest of the Chinese posse in my collection but it looks absolutely atrocious! It would suit a fisherman who wouldn't care about the looks and just wants a decent amount of light output, but having sweated over it for days I can't bare to see it go, plus it's the only example of a Pelikan I have!
     
  5. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    The Anchor vaporiser fits at the bottom (I've got a spare that I tried out) but it's too tall by approximately 8mm and stops it fitting properly inside the inner hood/burner. I wondered if I could alter it but I can't see how I could achieve it easily.
     
  6. BigStevie

    BigStevie United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Colin, what year is your petromax?
     
  7. JEFF JOHNSON

    JEFF JOHNSON United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Is your Petromax lantern 500cp or a 350cp?
     
  8. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    The Petromax is Chinese made so quite modern I believe (BTW where is the date code?) and it's a 500cp 829.
     
  9. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    Colin, I had a similar problem with a stove.
    I tried changing nipples but still couldn’t get a seal (worn thread in nipple seat). To compensate for the worn thread I wrapped a strand of fibreglass and Nickel paste around the thread. No more leaks.

    20.JPG
     
  10. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    @ROBBO55 I havn't heard of nickel paste before. What would it normally be used for so I know where to look in this part of the world. I have a jet on an Aladdin 14A that just wont seal.
     
  11. Tony Press

    Tony Press Antarctica Subscriber

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    Loctite do a nickel grease. It’s very useful for high temperatures.

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  12. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    @Nils Stephenson

    G'day Nils, It's sold as Nickel Anti-seize.
    Several manufactures. nickel grease - Bing images

    Where I worked it was used on larger stainless steel nuts an bolts to prevent binding during installation.
    And as Tony said it has a higher operating temperature than copper grease / slip.

    The one I use is Loctite.
     
  13. X246A

    X246A United Kingdom Subscriber

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    @ColinG

    It must be a keeper! Every lantern has a story or two to tell and the fact that it has had a rough life and is still working is testimony to its actual build quality.

    Be proud of its battle scars.

    Regards Jeremy
     
  14. Tony Press

    Tony Press Antarctica Subscriber

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    28B32A0D-C08E-459B-9595-EBB17BD4EBB4.jpeg

    Cheers

    Tony
     
  15. WimVe

    WimVe Subscriber

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    Well I use a strand (remains) of the mantle tie sometimes to seal of.
    Also you can try to fasten the jet when it is hot.
    I think the thread isn't deep enough or the jet is a tad to long.
     
  16. AussiePete

    AussiePete Australia Subscriber

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    Here’s another brand, it’s used for assembling boiler parts, their studs and any threads. I’ve had good experiences with this one, it works very well.

    3420BFAB-5234-4D34-B6D4-09400CD56F76.jpeg

    Cheers
    Pete
     
  17. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Thanks everyone... I'll get myself some nickel thread anti-seize paste and give it a go.

    Does anyone know the thread pitch on a Petromax jet? I need to chase the thread as it binds halfway in when tightening it. I've tried different jets with exactly the same result so it must be the internal thread.
     
  18. MarkC

    MarkC Subscriber

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    Believe it is M7x1.0 I was running all over Tallinn searching for this after Christmas. M8 and M6 everywhere.

    I have a real stinker of a TL106. Tried to seal the burner up with exhaust paste, but just as bad. An annoying job as you have to heat up, cool down, heat up, then mantle gets damaged, on and on etc etc.
    Can understand your frustration.
     
  19. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    I could forgive this behaviour in a lamp that has been run for years and suffered a great deal of use, but my Petromax 829 is very little used.
     
  20. MYN

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    The thread size/pitch of the usual Petromax jet-vaporizer should either be M7×1,0mm or probably 7.0mm × 26tpi.
    It could be either the jet or vaporizer port or both. I couldn't remember exactly which one's for which.
    Normally, it should seal by metal-to-metal contact alone. But if the seating surface of either the jet or vaporizer port is unevenly worn, then some heat resisting thread and antiseize could be handy as suggested. Nickel is harder than brass and wouldn't be too ideal if the jet or vaporizer is new. Copper-graphire based antiseize would normally suffice. But since its already problematic, I see no harm using the nickel-based antiseize anyway.
    Beware, if the threads are extremely worn and loose, it could be dangerous as it might just pop off while operating.
     
  21. Nils Stephenson

    Nils Stephenson Founder Member

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    I don't know what Petromax used, but the thread on an Optimus jet is 7mm diameter with a 24tpi Whitworth thread.
     
  22. Adrian Romania

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    Colin, just found this topic, I don't know about the Pelikan but on my Anchor clone the thread pitch on the jet is different from original Petromax. The original Petromax jets would only screw half way in. So you may fix it with a spare jet from an Anchor clone.
     
  23. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

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    Aha... interesting. Thanks.
     

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