@Jacob van Pareen No need to get shouty... If you've been around here for a while, you'll have quite easily recognised that I know that Coleman fuel is naphtha. In my above post, I was relating that a professional in the field rated Shellite (which I confirmed for those unfamiliar with it, was pure naphtha) as a better fuel than Coleman fuel. Nothing more; nothing less. I haven't compared the MSDS for both fuels, but in any case the point is moot here in Australia, as Coleman fuel is very, very expensive. I understand that Coleman fuel has a rust inhibitor added to it, but I don't know whether Shellite does. Cheers Tony
Hi Tony, Do you know why that professional in the field, claims Shellite is a bétter fuel, than Coleman fuel? P S. One gets two types of Nahptha; light and heavy. Light Nahptha, being aliphatic, is what we call Benzine. I checked up on the composition of both light Nahptha and Coleman fuel; about the same! If your Shellite contains no aromatic hydrocarbons, it will be Light Nahptha, i.e. Like Coleman fuel. Aromatic hydrocarbons in there, and it will form more carbon in generators. Pity we don't have Shellite in South Africa, that I could test! PS Consider to blend a rust inhibitor into Shellite, then you would have a really good, cleaner burning fuel! Cheers, Jacob.
I'll ask him in more detail next time I get a chance. Shellite is 100% "Light Aliphatic". I've just posted the MSDS in another thread. Tony
Hi Jacob, The Shellite that Tony mentioned is quite easily obtainable in Australia. It is also classified as a Petroleum naphtha. It is basically a mixture of light aliphatic(saturated) hydrocarbons with the cas no.64742-89-8, officially named as "Solvent naphtha, petroleum, light aliphatic". It might contain up to 30% n-hexane within. Coleman Fuel is a fuel that predominantly contains a mixture of aliphatic hydrocarbons with a cas no.68410-97-9, officially named as: "Distillates, petroleum, light distillate hydrotreating process, low boiling". While both are not exactly the same, they are still perfectly suitable as fuels for gasoline-type lanterns/stoves as they don't contain appreciable amounts of aromatic hydrocarbons. Both will still contain aromatics(such as benzene, toluene, etc) in trace amounts(<1% v/v or in parts per million) as unremoved contaminants. As info to all, there really are a lot of such liquids being named as "naphtha". Even the lighter ones are numerous, such as those included in the following file:
Good info. Thanks to everyone for helping me for a better understanding of suitable fuels for my lanterns. This forum is really invaluable!!
This very old lamp gets a new life after some delicate fettling. Here I’m testing the burners after fettling, but I’ll put together a complete story in the Fettling Forum after I’ve done the rest. Now using my (ridiculous) throw-away test mantles: At least I now know that I’ve sorted the fuel, and burner systems. The rest should be easy. Cheers Tony
Testing a fettled 9/38 Canadian Coleman 228B. Low pressure. Higher pressure. It’s running well. Cheers Tony
Testing a Hipolito 250. I think this lantern will be fine! Edit: I’ve been looking at Neil McRae’s PLC and this lantern has some interesting features. I shall clean it up and put in the Reference Gallery. Cheers Tony
@Tony Press Hey have a stupid question but in a few of your photos you show something of a clip on type preheating cup over your generator. What is that? I am really new to pressure lamps as the only one I got going was a 159x, never seen a lot of these before. Thanks!
The clip is to stop the pre-heating cup sliding up at hitting the mantles when you are moving your lamp around. Cheers Tony
@Tony Press @podbros yeah that's it. Seems to be quite handy. So my understanding is that you can unclip it and clip it to other lanterns
Yes. It’s designed for the Tilley 169 and 606 (plus other) vapourisers but useful elsewhere, including stoves. Pre-heating torch Tony
1938 Petromax 828 ——> My first Petromax/Rapid full fettle. I’m not afraid of them anymore…. Cheers Tony
Nice, looking at the flame of the rapid : it isn't working like it should. It should have a steel blue sturdy flame. Like a gas torch or paint stripper. Do you have a pre heater alcohol disc? The slow start method is that way easier then the tilley pre heater clip. Especially with glass in situ.
@WimVe and @Jacob van Pareen I’ve pulled the rapid heater apart and cleaned it thoroughly, but I suspect it has an enlarged jet. I’ll give it one more service to see how it goes. This is my first Petromax Rapid service so I’m learning as I go. But… I actually prefer the alcohol preheat, and never use the rapid on my Geniol stoves etc. I do have a Petromax spirit dish that I was going to fit eventually. Stay tuned. Tony
This generation Petromax rapid usually doesn't have a hole in the globe rest to allow filling and lighting a pre-heat dish. Makes it bit redundant to fit one.
With the old style "Dreh rapid", it is possible to open the valve more or less. Playing with it may also chance performance.
@Nils Stephenson … Mais oui! That means I’ll have to get that rapid working properly (or put a hole in a globe)… I’ll be back on the rapid pre-heater tomorrow. I have a whole line of Petromaxes to work on, now that I understand their basics. Cheers Tony
@WimVe I might give the tip of the rapid’s control shaft a good polish with fine emery paper to make sure it can be steadily opened. Tony
Perhaps the extra tiny air holes are a little clogged. If it doesn't turn out well enough, you always have the option of a blanking plug...
@MYN I did clean the tiny air holes with a very fine tapered needle, but when morning breaks, I’ll go over the rapid pre-heater again. Cheers Tony