Tilley SDR, repair to frame

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Darryl Durdin, Nov 4, 2020.

  1. Darryl Durdin

    Darryl Durdin Australia Subscriber

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    Hi fellas, im reparing a SDR, the leg of one suport is snnapped off in the tank,
    20201029_115022.jpg
    The yellow blob on the left is a glued on leg, it is snapped off

    im thinking an easy out thread remover, the leg is a bit of a challenge.

    20201104_154928.jpg
    Is the bottom of the leg a sleave that can be removed.?

    20201104_154920.jpg
    I have used a thread gauge to find the thread.
    Says 32 witworth

    20201104_155125.jpg
    I plan on removing the sleave, cut the leg short, join in a new piece of 5mm brass rod, solder it back to gether, retap the thread.
    Dose it sound like a good plan.
    Any tips will be appreciated
     
  2. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    @Darryl Durdin
    If the thread is the same as a 246 pork pie it will be 2BA.
    I repaired a 246 recently. I will post some details tomorrow.
     
  3. Ian Bingham

    Ian Bingham Subscriber

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    It is not a sleeve, the leg is one piece with a turned down section. If you can't make or find another leg (it is the same cage on the early X246) you could try drilling a hole up the axis, and soldering in a threaded length.
     
  4. James

    James Subscriber

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    That's how I repaired mine. To save tapping the thread I bought some 2BA brass machine screws and cut off the threaded part to solder in.
     
  5. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    @Darryl Durdin

    G'day Darryl, As said earlier, I had something similar with a Tilley Pork Pie V1.

    To replace the thread on the cage support I made a 2BA stud, drilled the end of the leg and silbrazed it in. The cage support in this instance is turned from one piece of brass.

    4.JPG 6.JPG

    The hardest part is to drill the centre of the broken stud in the fount.

    7.jpg

    I made a guide that fitted snugly into the threads then drilled a 2mm (5/64") hole in the centre.

    You are drilling into a blind hole so be careful not to drill into the tank. On mine the studs stopped short of the bottom so it was obvious when I was through the stud.

    8.JPG 9.JPG

    Then I enlarged the hole a little at a time up to the size of the required taping drill size of 4mm.

    Used a plug tap (bottom tap) to remove the old screw threads and clean the thread in the nut.

    10.JPG

    I hope this helps and maybe gives you some ideas.
    Good luck
     
  6. Darryl Durdin

    Darryl Durdin Australia Subscriber

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    @ROBBO55 , thanks for the help, your pictures and explanation, im having trouble trying to find a 2BAbrass machine screws as suggested, they are old school, the guide is a great idea, im building up the confidence a courage to tackle this, the more advice i get my confidence is up.
     
  7. Darryl Durdin

    Darryl Durdin Australia Subscriber

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    @ROBBO55 , im going with the 4mm tap, as i have no resources for the other, i have cleared the hole, im retapping it to 4mm, the bung is about 10mm deep, the threaded bar is about 7mm.
    It is only 1 leg it dose not have to be the same as the others,
    I think i may be over thinking it.
    Bit paranoid
     
  8. Darryl Durdin

    Darryl Durdin Australia Subscriber

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    Ive re tapped it, it went well
    I cleared the hole of the glue,
    20201105_164604.jpg
    The hole must have been drilled befor trying to get it out as the bottom was curved my 2mm drill sat in perfectly.
    20201105_164844.jpg
    I enlarged the hole, to suit the bigger tap M5x0.8mm
    20201105_165531.jpg
    A point of interest, the bung is 10mm deep, the threaded part of the bung is 4mm, the threaded rod is 7mm.
    20201105_165645.jpg
    I am pleased with the out come, i decided to dunk test for peace of mind.
    Not bad but not good.
    I have air leaks on 2 of the bungs,
    20201105_175107.jpg
    This is not the bung i was working on.
    My next question is can these be removed and re soldered, any ideas much appreciate.
    Its a struggle i know. But i do like the fettle.
     

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  9. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    @Darryl Durdin

    During manufacture, before the base plate is fitted, the bungs are put in from the outside of the tank, secured with a nut and then sealed with solder. Most leaks can be fixed by heating the affected area so that the existing solder runs and basically, resolders the joint. Remove all traces of fuel from the inside of the tank before applying heat.
     
  10. James

    James Subscriber

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    I haven't tried that before. Does the tank have to be upside down to prevent the bung from falling into the tank when the solder is melted?
     
  11. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    The bung can't fall into the tank. What you see here is a collar, it is larger in diameter than the hole which it goes through.

    Darryl's porkpie. 02.jpg
    The fitting can't fall out because it has a nut on the inside of the tank.

    After making sure all traces of fuel have been removed, suspend the lantern by the handle so the weight of the tank keeps things tight once the solder begins to run, as soon as it does, remove the heat. There's nothing to stop you adding a little more solder if you think it's necessary.
     
  12. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    @Darryl Durdin

    Your welcome Darryl. I'm glad you got the broken screw out.
    It's a pitty about leaks. Henry's solution is a proper fix but will probably bugger the paint work. You could use a fuel tank sealer on the inside to stop the leaks.
     
  13. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    Personally, I'd have said . . definitely . .

    An unfurtunate downside when the original finish is in good order. A tank sealer may well be the way to go.
     
  14. Darryl Durdin

    Darryl Durdin Australia Subscriber

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    @Henry Plews
    @ROBBO55
    Thank you for your worldly advice, it is much appriciated, i would never known about how the tank is made, the air leaks are suttle, what would i use as a tank sealer, any recommendations, in Australia,
     
  15. ROBBO55

    ROBBO55 Subscriber

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    @Darryl Durdin

    I have used a KBS fuel tank sealer kit on this 1951 COLEMAN 249 SCOUT Fettle

    The sealer is air cured and goes off once the can is opened. But a stovie told me not to open the lid but to punch a nail hole in the tin and use a syringe to suck out what you need. then seal the hole with a round piece of wood. This limits the amount of air entering the can. I have used this tin 4 times in the last 3 years and it is still usable.
     
  16. Darryl Durdin

    Darryl Durdin Australia Subscriber

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    @Henry Plews
    Hi Henry.
    Im up to repairing my screw bungs, when you say heat until solder melts, or even add more solder.
    Do i use silver solder or some thing like electrical wire type solder, please advise, tank you
     
  17. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

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    @Darryl Durdin
    Hi Darryl, it may not need extra solder but if it does, electric wire type solder will do just fine.
     

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