Veritas superb taps and dies

Discussion in 'Fettling Forum' started by Peter Perry, Dec 29, 2021.

  1. Peter Perry

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2021
    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    West Midlands
    Hello guys does anyone know if the size of tap you use has be the same size as the die .
    Only problems a plenty with my veritas it was totally seized in all ways.
    Oil soaking did nothing neither did the blow torch on removing the bottom part of the generator (what I call it ) from the font.
    My last resort was protecting the brass and into the vice turning the font at max strength it started to budge but my word it was extremely tight right to the end of the thread .
    Upon inspection I could see the threads were shot on both the font and the generator a thick lead washer coated both threads.
    I've managed to chase the thread in the font with an m12 tap but the generator thread is larger .
    It fits back together now but still extremely tight is this normal?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Mackburner

    Mackburner United Kingdom Founder Member Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2010
    Messages:
    6,522
    Location:
    Hertfordshire
    I think it's unlikely a Veritas has any metric threads. I would guess the thread is half inch BSB. An M12 tap will likely chase through a 1/2" though as it is a slightly smaller Dia but it would still make the male thread a very tight fit. The lead in the threads is probably a solder seal and that fitting was never intended to be removed. ::Neil::
     
  3. Peter Perry

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2021
    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    West Midlands
    @Mackburner
    Hi Neil thanks very much you just answered my question.
    I'd totally forgot about imperial which is strange as I work with it every day (a few days off and it all goes to pot ) yes it's still very tight but at least it works so a good result.
    Cheers
    Pete
     
  4. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2014
    Messages:
    2,149
    Location:
    North Yorkshire
    You should be looking at something like this.
    VERITAS_SUPERB_f (3).jpg

    The hardened rubber seal, part 3 - 211V, is responsible for the needle control being seized. With the valve unit out of the tank, remove the lever 3 - 213V and gland nut 3 - 212V. Use a blow torch to heat the area marked 3 - 201, the rubber seal will burn out long before the brass melts. Similarly with the needle valve, undo the gland nut as far as you can and heat the housing until the rubber seal gives way. You may wish to put a wet rag around the bakelite knob to protect it against conducted heat.
     
  5. Peter Perry

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2021
    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    West Midlands
    @Henry Plews
    That's superb Henry thanks for that I couldn't find anything on the inter Web about it .
    The needle control is free to turn now after a bit of heat but still won't pull out .
    The on off control knob was relatively easy it just unscrewed with a bit of perseverance with a hard seal followed which fell to bits I have ordered a new seal kit from basecamp and their advice was not to take it apart lol its a bag of bits now .
    I also started a new thread on it after another problem I had called veritas superb taps and dies if you wish to take a look.
    Thanks Henry your help is most welcome.
    Pete
     
  6. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2014
    Messages:
    2,149
    Location:
    North Yorkshire
    Fair enough if it's working but when it's not, how are you going to fix it without taking it apart ?

    Keep going with the heat, as I said, the rubber will burn away long before the brass melts.

    Re: taps & dies, yes they need to be the same size and as Neil says, the fitting will most probably be 1/2 inch BSB.
    The part of the valve which screws into the fitting is 3/8 inch BSB taper.

    Re: the valve unit, if you're happy with the "extremely tight fit" - fair enough but if not, you could heat the valve part until the solder melts and clean it off with a wire brush or coarse wire wool. DO NOT attemp this with the fitting in the tank ! Once the solder melts, the fitting will drop into the tank and your problems increase.
     
  7. Peter Perry

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2021
    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    West Midlands
    @Henry Plews
    Couldn't agree more the whole point of restoration is examine every piece surely.
    Unfortunately I only have a metric tap and die set at the moment using the m12 to chase the thread in the font which worked though as you say Henry very tight still .
    I will continue with heat both on the barrel to remove the pin but also on the thread to remove the lead .
    On the upside there's less chance of a leak under pressure if it's tight with a new washer.
    As for problems increasing I'm sure I haven't seen the last of them but one step at a time eh .
    Thanks henry your a font of knowledge.
    Pete
     
  8. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2017
    Messages:
    3,916
    As I have a few old parts for the Superb knocking around so I'll size up the exact thread pitch and let you know what it is... later today hopefully. (PS. I'm reading this at silly-O-clock in the morning as I couldn't sleep but I will get answers for you.)
     
  9. Peter Perry

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2021
    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    West Midlands
    @ColinG
    Thanks Colin appreciated.
     
  10. Peter Perry

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2021
    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    West Midlands
    @Henry Plews
    That was a hell of a battle Henry but persistence and brute force wins the day .
     

    Attached Files:

  11. Henry Plews

    Henry Plews Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2014
    Messages:
    2,149
    Location:
    North Yorkshire
    Often it's the only way to surmount a problem though it can be a little unnerving at times.
     
  12. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2017
    Messages:
    3,916
    Hi... I feel really bad as I still haven't got round to checking the threads as I promised! Ill try asap.
     
  13. Peter Perry

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2021
    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    West Midlands
    @ColinG
    Hey Colin no worries she's up and running well it was running yesterday for a couple of hours no problem slight halo outside of mantle which is probably the jet and their obsolete so it is what it is .
    Oh and a leak from somewhere I need to track down when I get time but apart from that not too bad at all.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. ColinG

    ColinG United Kingdom Subscriber

    Offline
    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2017
    Messages:
    3,916
    She's not looking too bad at all! I'm not sure about the leak - you'll just have to track it down step by step, but the jet... there is a solution actually. The Austromax jet is the same size and thread pattern and can be used as a replacement. There is just one small alteration that needs to be made. The Austromax jet has an approx 1mm shoulder at the top of the thread that needs to be removed. I was lucky enough to have a mate in Oz who bought a couple for me, turned down the shoulder before posting them off to me. Other than that you could try the 'peening' technique to close the jet up a little.
     
  15. Peter Perry

    Offline
    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2021
    Messages:
    128
    Location:
    West Midlands
    @ColinG
    Thanks Colin I can't see me getting hold of a new jet anytime soon but its no big deal at the moment.
    As for the leak it's going to have to be a weekend job when I'm home in daylight lol.
    Thanks for your post .
     

Share This Page