Tilley nearly got going!!!

Hi just been serving renewing bits to my lamp. When I started her up the mantel was just flames no control

the on/off seams to be very stiff

it’s a shame as I was really looking forward to the 1st burn

 

@Richiep

Sounds like it wasn't hot enough.
Tilley recommend 10 to 15 pumps and pre heat for 2 to 3 minutes for starting.

 

How did it behave before ? Are you allowing enough time for the meths torch to preheat the vapouriser ? Are you adding too much pressure too soon ? Tilley (and BiAladdin / Vapalux for that matter) do not like a lot of pressure when starting.

Henry.

 

@Richiep

The knurled collar on the shaft of the control tap may be too tight. Back it off almost to falling off and try to see if its still too tight. (you did replace the o ring with a new one didn't you.) Then do it up until it feels right, tight enough to stop weeping. (thats the tap, not you!)

You are not preheating the lamp enough, that's why its a fireball. The paraffin is not having time to vapourise as the vapouriser and burner is not hot enough.

Try this: With no presssure in the tank and the tap OPEN Heat until the meths flames go out then do it again, let it burn almost out then BEFORE the meths flames go out pump the lamp a few times and the mantle will pop (sometimes they just light) After about 30 secs pump to pressure and full brightness

 

Richiep.....you are using a Pre-Heating Torch soaked in methylated spirits to warm up the vapourizer first (around 3 minutes) ????

Martin

 

Hey thanks so much for the response chaps.
Robbo55 I had no pressure when I was pre-heating, but the tap was off its a new pre burner lasted 2 mins max, I think from Henry’s I’ll give it a couple goes tonight. I’ve never seen it light before as it was in my dads shed & as a kid I accidentally broke the glass never told him to like 40 years later , I did say I would like it so he gave me it & I thought I would do it up, & last nite it did for awhile well about 10 seconds.
Plantpot thanks yes I’m pretty sure I changed the o ring I got a service bag from the lads on here. Thank you all so much I’ll give her another go.

how old do you think she is? As dad thinks it’s older than him he’s 83

 

@Richiep I failed to mention that you should have the filler cap/presure release cap loose and not tight before you try to light it as any (even room temprature) heat will cause the paraffin to rise up the vap tube if the cock is open. You want the vap tube to have no paraffin in it ideally before you apply the preheater

I have one exactly the same as yours. It will have no date stamp on the base or manufacturers logo on the fount. It would have originally had a water slide on the base near the rim saying tilley x246

Its around early 1950s... 1950 to 1954 to be exact. take a look in the lamp reference gallery. The clue is the wire cage handle fixing, and how the bail handle is attached. So not older than your dad.

 

Thanks plantpot, lol i did wonder as it looked old, there's nothing on the bottom that i can see but thats close enough for me. I must admit i done the knurled collar up murder tight, ill do as i've been instructed tonite & give it a go fingers cross. I was just about to come in last nite when i thought a ive a spare vaporizer i put that one on & it lite for a few seconds then the flames again so thats when i thought i know some chaps that maybe able to help & you have thanks

 

just gone through & I think I’ve got to the bottom of it now it’s the switch/ on off it seams like it’s not turning off as even in the off position it still leaking paraffin out the top with only 1 slow pump, is it a new switch Or can I do anything

 

The pip, similar to the NRV one in the pump assembly probably needs replacement. Fuel leaking past it even when it's turned off is a good indication it probably failed. This may be just one problem, it sounds like you have more than one.
I'm no expert when it comes to Tilleys.

 

George is right. That problem needs to be fixed, bur with a replacement seal only.

Have you serviced one of these before?

Tony

@Richiep

 

Yes, @george is correct, the pip in the NRV at the bottom of the valve is buggered, they harden over time.
They’re quite easy to replace. Just screw out the valve/cock and you will see a small tube thingy with a filter on the bottom. Using a piece of leather or rubber, grip the tube thingy with a pair of pliers, not too tightly, and unscrew it. Change the pip, re-assemble and you’re in business.
Cheers
Pete

 

Thanks very much I’ll give it a go, is that where the on/off switch is just below that?

Tony never it’s like giving a space shuttle a service to me lol sorry for being so thick

 

@Richiep
Yes, Just unscrew the shut-off switch, cock or fuel control valve or twiddly thingy, and the NRV is located on the bottom of it.

Here is a picture that shows the cock's parts, look to the left of the picture, Just above the bolt head in the bench, you'll see the tube like housing/filter assembly, with the accompanying spring and pip, that screws into the bottom of the cock.


Cheers
Peter

 

That seal under a Tilley control cock (what you're calling the switch) is a bit redundant really because the pricker wire also forms a seal inside the top of the vapouriser. In practice, it fails and most folk don't realise it's done so. It's part No. 155 if you want to obtain a spare part - the same as the non-return valve washer as someone has already said...

 

@Richiep

Hope the picture below clarifies things. The bit with the mesh filter in it unscrews but is not obvious that it does. It contains a spring and a valve with a rubber disc. Fettlebox has the rubber disc you need.

 

Omg thank you all so much for your help, it’s great I’ll have another go tonight, I’m made up that so many are giving me the help, it will mean so much to me if I can get this up & running. A very big thank you all

 

Despite all the discussion about that pesky seal in the foot valve, my feeling is that the problem is something to do with that stiff control cock. What if the seal(s) in there have gone hard and to stop them leaking, the gland nut has been over-tightened. That would make the knob difficult to turn, possibly to the extent that the pricker isn't advancing far enough into the inside shoulder of the jet and thus not sealing it.

Try screwing the vapouriser into the cock and see if turning the knob then stops paraffin coming out of the jet...

 

Hi the control is fine when the vapouriser is screwed in on it own it moves really easy, I did buy a service pack & will change over the round washer where the spring is, thinking as I’m texting this my thought is it might be that god only knows why I dnt change them, there’s 2 one for the set where the spring goes where does the other go? It may be obvious when I get out there. Many thanks & sorry for being so thick & trying

 

Sorry I should read what I wright before sending

the control is easy when the vapouriser is out when I screw it together that’s when it’s stiff

yes I’ve read that back & yes that’s right

 

Omg we’re away though there small flames coming out the mantal, need a new one I think, a celebrational drink I think is in order yayayaya I’m like a dog with the twins

 

How do I try & avoid the black bits on the mantal?

 

I can’t see the fettle box sell mantal do I get them from e b ay?

 

For some reason there is no online shop that sells it all:
Washers: Fettlebox
Globes: BaseCamp
Mantles and repro parts: Juliands
Etc...

 

I think you might need a new vapouriser as well as a couple of mantles...

 

I agree with @David Shouksmith , a new vapouriser is needed.

Unless there are holes or splits in the mantle, I'd leave it alone. Once you've got the lantern burning correctly, the black bits will burn themselves off.

If the mantle is damaged and does need replacing, before fitting a new one, take the burner out of the hood and make sure the air tubes are clear because spiders like to build their nests in them. The baby spiders may be long gone but the silk nest will impede the air flow which could lead to an over rich mixture characterised by big flames coming out of the mantle.

Henry.

 

Richie lad, your not thick, just learning. We all had to start knowing nothing about these lamps and their hidden seals/valves etc. You'll have learned a lot by the time you get It finished.

 

@Richiep

As David and Henry said.
The lantern appears to be running rich. So either too much fuel or not enough air. The vapouriser was designed as a disposable component.

Base Camp should be able to supply you with the parts you need. Give them a call.

 

Well said !
Don't worry, you'll get there... it's sometimes a process of elimination and you may have to check and re-check things ( and fork out extra cash for more mantles )..

Funny that the control cock seizes up when you screw the vapouriser in tho ?...

 

@Cyril Benn
The cock seizes up when you screw the generator in. That sounds like the pricker is partially jamming in the down position, maybe due to carbon build up inside the genny or the pricker wire is bent to buggery. The pricker jamming would transfer the effort to the cock's eccentric mechanism and you will feel the resistance as you try to rotate the cock's knob .....

If you can, you may need to investigate the generator and pricker more, however, I reckon it's probably time to get a replacement generator.

Cheers
Pete