Please could someone advise me on how to get the part shown in the photo, into the control cock. Perhaps I shouldn't have taken it out. I've tried keeping the cam in one position by holding the gland nut whilst tightening the other nut. No luck. I'd be reallt pleased if I could achieve this task.
@Spirito That part is not supposed to be separated from the control cock. When it’s assembled it’s welded (aluminium) in place. The black knob pulls off the shaft, and the threaded gland nut holds the washer(s) to seal the unit. Unless you can refit and bond the cam to the control cock, you’re looking at a new control cock. Tony Edit: I’m not sure how Tilley sealed that cam-to-cock joint in these aluminium X246Bs.
Has to be possible. Tilley did it so it should be a repeatable fettle. I have done it with the early 1930s brass types but they are lead soldered. I don't know how the alloy types were fixed either. I fear you have dismantled a step too far. ::Neil::
@Spirito Hello and welcome. The more modern ones may be but the one in question is threaded and should be held fast with a thread locker. Have a look at these images In the first two images, you can just make out traces of red Loctite (or similar) next to the hex nut. On this particular example, there was no where near enough of the stuff and I could undo the hex with just my fingers. @Spirito you are having difficulty in replacing the part because you are fighting with two springs. One on the cleaning wire inside the vapouriser and the other inside the gauze filter. Removing these two parts will make the job much easier. You may have a little difficulty removing the filter but persevere, it will come off. Pull off the the control knob, undo the gland nut completely and slide it off the shaft, do the same with the hex nut. Locate the came in the cam block, slide the hex forward and screw in place - if you don't have Loctite you can use PTFE tape. Finally, tighten the gland nut.
Excellent, again, Henry. I don’t see how the modern ones would be welded - I expect, having seen your cutaway, they are all fixed by thread sealant. Cheers Tony @Henry Plews
They could be splined and press fit so long as you have fly press and tooling. Cheaper than cutting threads and as we know they liked cheap by the late 60s.
Thanks, Henry. Mine has traces of red Loctite (or similar) next to the hex nut. you are having difficulty in replacing the part because you are fighting with two springs. One on the cleaning wire inside the vapouriser and the other inside the gauze filter. Removing these two parts will make the job much easier. You may have a little difficulty removing the filter but persevere, it will come off. In relation to the above quote, I am not struggling with the springs in the vaporiser because the control cock is totally separate from it. I will try your advice in your last paragraph and if that doesn't work, I'll buy a new one. Thanks for yor help and others too.
Just one more question before I disassemble; why won't part A easily screw into part B, even when the cam has fitted through threads of part B? I've tried and even though the threads are not damaged it seems to go in at an angle and does not screw in. It screwed out but not back in. Why? Thanks.
I'm so annoyed with my action which is totally against my philosophy, "If it ain't broken, don't fix it." Dumb! I never even tested it first! Can't believe it. Not used in 35 years. Gerrrrrrh.
The inside of the cock is machined in such a way that the control will only turn a little more than 180 degrees i.e. just past dead centre when the needle is up or down (I've given over trying to get a decent image so you'll have to use your imagination). You've shown us the problem, here is the solution. You have to insert just the spindle and then rotate it so that the hex nut fitting will go in square. Note the orientation of the control cock particularly in the second image, it may not look it but the cam lobe is facing downwards. Step 1 Step 2 Step 3 Step 4 Replace the knob and the job is done. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.
Thanks Henry. Brilliantly clear instruction. I'll try it. Question- with what do I seal the hex nut? Someone suggested PTFE but would that not be weakened by the heat?
I'm sure you'll manage, the method works for me. It's surprising how much heat PTFE tape will stand when it is away from air. If you're not comfortable with it, use thread sealer. After all that's what was used originally.
Control cock. Couldn't get the knob off. Bought another control cock. Replacing mantle. Looked on internet. Said - put large hole at top of spigot. The holes on my new mantle are same size. One end is pink. Please could you tell me which end goes at the top. Thanks for your help and sorry for such a simple question.
You weren't pulling hard enough. Or were you confused by the threaded end of the spindle in the images I posted ? I should have mentioned that the spindle was from an earlier cock with a screw-on knob (button). That's the only way you'll get a pre-tied mantle to fit. That's because mantles start as one long tube from which lengths are cut and string threaded through at each end. It doesn't matter which end goes at the top but if the strings were pre-tied, the pink end would go at the top.
1) "but if the strings were pre-tied, the pink end would go at the top." (Henry) I assume the strings were not pre tied because they were loose, easily facilitating the opening of each end. Both holes looked same size, so I suppose it doesn't matter which way up it goes. Is this correct? Why is one end pink? 2) "You weren't pulling hard enough." Correct. No way I could get ot off. No vice.
Yes, quite correct. This type of mantle is often described as 'loose tied' and they do have their advantages. The main one being they can be used on both Tilley and Bialaddin/Vapalux lanterns even though the burners are different diameters. They can also be used on other burners where the vapouriser goes through the mantle e.g. Primus 1001, they're not the best but will do at a push. I find a vice to be a very useful piece of kit. It doesn't have to be a super heavy duty affair securely bolted down to railway sleepers, a small one which can be clamped to a table will do for most lamp fettling jobs.
