I aquired this X246B Tilley a while back, and until I get a decent vice and molegrips (Got a broken bone in left hand, unmendable), I can't do much with it because everything is seized solid. I borrowed the pump from another Tilley. I am amazed the control cock works, because that needs seals and I can't take it apart at the moment it is that stuck. The vaporiser and rod I cleaned ok though. It fired up well I thought, although there is a bit of flame outside the mantle. No leaks anywhere.
Essential fettling tools for sure! Seriously, there’d not be much left of the aluminium control cock after attention with the molegrips. When you say it needs seals you mean there’s a fuel leak cock-to-tank and/or control spindle packing seal? Also, by ‘taking it apart’ I guess you mean removing the control cock from the tank? John
One word. "penetratingoil" - the alloy can get a but fluffy but they always come apart. Remember you can use them without the cock anyway (like a vapalux). As to flaring - check the burner for obstructions/dirt etc.
@presscall I got seals on the Tank and the vaporiser. I wanted to check the square shaped knobbly seal inside the fuel cock, but no joy there. Also the gland jobby won't budge either. This hand of mine can't grip fully, so that doesn't help. I meant take the control cock itself apart..... The control cock seems to work OK though no leaks, but I just wanted to replace them as I had to do the other bits. @Fireexit1 I'll check the burner and got some WD somewhere!
@Johnny19 Take a look at Henry Plews’ comments and photos regarding aluminium control cocks in THIS thread.
No. 1 rule of fettling (especially with a gammy hand) - if it ain't broke, don't fix it! In twenty years, I've never had to faff about with the foot-valve - assuming that's what you mean - on a Tilley lamp or lantern. Essentially, they're redundant - the lantern will work fine irrespective of the condition of the foot-valve. I suppose if it unscrews easily, fair enough, go ahead and change the seal if you've already got a replacement to hand, but don't bother to struggle with it if it's tight - there's no point and they're easy to damage with too much force (apparently, anyway). WD40 isn't penetrating oil. It's a water dispersant (hence the initials) and is, apparently, just paraffin and perfume. Try a proper penetrating oil such as Plus-Gas or similar but remember, if it took a long time to get stuck then it's probably going to take a long time to get apart. Try soaking overnight at least. Do not, repeat, do not try to unscrew the three air intakes from the burner body. They're fine-threaded, tend to burn into each other and impossible to replace without mis-threading or stripping the threads completely. Then it's time to buy a new burner. Assuming you mean the knurled gland nut on the end, remove the knob (it simply pulls off), put the gland nut in a vice between soft-faced jaws to prevent damage and turn the cock - you'll get a better grip and more leverage. When you replace the one/two gland seals, the gland nut should be only hand-tightened. If you were meant to really tighten it, it would have a hexagonal head for a spanner. Don't use pliers or mole-grips to tighten up anything knurled - there's no need. DO NOT, on any account, try to remove the square nut soldered/sealed into the control cock body. It's soldered or sealed in there for one main reason and that's to stop you trying to take it apart because there's nothing behind it to service...
Thanks Everyone for the advice. As I said Tilley's are not my thing, but I want to find out more about them as I have a couple now. @David Shouksmith I have decided to leave the Fuel Cock alone for now as its working fine. I've got no intention of removing the burner either. All I need to do is sort the pump.
