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hello all new to the site and collecting. Been collecting US Coleman for a while Just got my first Tilley. Been looking for one to go with my Rover series iia. I think it’s a 54 thru early 56. Is there any way to date these? Does not have a date or numbers stamped anywhere. Just made in England On the bottom. Thanks for the help.

 

Nice clean lamp for a 246 Guardsman dates started 56 e.g. 0357 is march 57 dont light before a thorough check for leaks etc
A guide to lighting

 

Welcome aboard !!
Nice find

 

Welcome aboard!
A fine restoration project!

 

Thanks all the video answered a lot of questions. I see mine is missing the pre heater cup (?) Are these required to get them going? The pricker is bent all up so I have ordered a new Vaporizer and seal and pump repair kit.

 

@Rosims

If my memory serves me well, the previous version to yours of the Tilley X246 was made from 1950 to 1954/5.

@Graham P has noted that Tilley dating began in 1956.

If all Tilley X246s were dated from sometime in 1956, then your lantern would have to be from 1955 give or take a few months.

Cheers

Tony

 

The earliest date stamp I know of on an X246 is November 1956. However there was a tank change in 1954 and this one ain't it. From 1954 to mid 1957 the tank has a groove around the base flange. Lanterns without the groove are 1950 to 1954 and October 1957 to September 1961 but before 1954 they are not stamped with the Logo. This lantern has the Tilley logo on the tank and I would expect that tank to be date stamped and date to after Oct 1957. It is perhaps just possible this is a 1954 tank when Tilley began stamping the logo but just before they changed the tank type. Only way to tell will be to have a look inside the tank to see how the base plate is inserted. Before 1957 the base plate is a shallow dish shape. In 1957 the base plate was inverted which is why those later tanks tend to dish down. I would be looking hard to see if there is a date stamp in the base plate on thi one. ::Neil::

 

@Mackburner

I learn new stuff every day!

Cheers

Tony

 

There are no markings on the bottom. Just Made in England.

 

hers A pic of the bottom. Thanks all this is great information on these lanterns

 

Here is the inside of the tank. Maybe this will help

 

This is a similar one I restored(ish) a few months back. I swapped the handle for the earlier loop version, which I believe is better. It has a B style hood and the tank is stamped 10560 and I have been informed this could be October 1956 or May 1960. I am unsure...

 

Here is a similar pic of mine. I'm not sure, but it looks as if the ribbed band is higher on yours with a flat section in between. Not sure??

 

In answer to your pre-heating question, yes you definitely need to, otherwise the mantle will become a ball of flames that will shoot out the top as well. Paraffin (kero) needs to be vaporised to light, unlike gas(oline) or Coleman Fuel which will burn in their liquid form. You don't need a pre-heater as such - you could use other methods - but it's a hell of a lot easier if you have one. You are supposed to leave the pre-heater for a couple of minutes before pumping pressure into the tank. When it's had its time, I give a few tentative pumps and wait till a little kero makes its way into the burner, and once you see the mantle begin to glow a little from the ignited vapour, give it ten more and make sure it's still happy. If it is, give it maybe 50 more and if all is well it should be burning pretty bright. If there are any problems, and by that I mean if the vaporiser wasn't hot enough, the kero will cool the vaporiser and you could have a flame-out on your hands. We've all had them at some point I'm sure. If that happens, turn the pricker knob fully clockwise, wait until the flames completely subside and then depressurise the tank, but be very careful there are no flames or glowing mantle embers around, just in case, although kero shouldn't catch fire in it's liquid form. Once that's done, you can clear up and try again.

Hope this helps.

 

Well that's interesting for sure. That inside pic clearly shows the base plate and that is a 1950 to 1954 tank. I don't believe I have seen one of these with the logo stamped on but undated. Clearly Tilley began stamping the tanks in 1954 just before they switched to the later tank with the groove in the base flange which is what the Oct 1956 lantern above is. ::Neil::

 

I must admit, I have three Guardsman's, two as per the latter style tank and one as per the earlier one. Only the one above is date stamped and all three have the Owl logo.

 

Thanks for the clarity on the date, definitely one worth keeping hold of then. Also, I always understood that 'tank dishing' was something that started when they introduced the A model?? Will be careful how many pumps I give these in future then...

 

No the tank dishing starts in November 1957 on the X246. Yes your lantern is something special. It is the only example I know of with that tank type but stamped and undated. Doubtless there will be others that I am not aware of. A very good find which helps me add useful info to the PLC. ::Neil::

 

So if you have a working pressure indicator (tit) is it fair to use it as a rough guide to tank pressure or not? I have two Tilleys with pressure tit's that don't work but the rest do.... and they seem to give a fairly good idea of when to stop pumping although I count the pumps I've given every time I pressurise any lantern of whatever brand!

 

For reference these are the other two Guardsmans I have - as I understand from @Mackburner two different tank types, with Owl logo but both undated. Sorry to have partially hijacked this thread, but it's a wonderful learning curve. The butterfly pump did come with the one above (from a bootsale) but I understand definitely not original.

 

Thanks this helps for sure. Good information for a newbie to these lanterns. So from what I read, some say meth in the preheater. Is this translated to American as alcohol? Or would it use Kero? Thanks again

 

What we call 'Meths' in the UK is 95% Ethyl Alcohol with 5% methyl alcohol plus a die to make it purple. It's essentially an alcohol so I'd guess it's the same thing as you describe. You can't use kero to pre-heat a lantern in the same way as you use meths, ie, you can't put it in the pre-heater and expect it to work in the same way. Technically it is possible to use kero (although I've never tried myself), but I'd stick with alcohol for now until you're confident. I think you'd find alcohol much cleaner as well, as burning kero using a wick can cause lots of black soot to go everywhere.

 

All this grooved and non-grooved talk made me go and look at mine. I have 6 Guardsmen but only one has the groove under the flange.

 

They are out there. That grooved tank was made for approx 3 years and the Guardsman was made from 1950 to 1961 so there should be at least 25% of the total. You need to have a look at the base seam of that undated stamped lantern. It may be another 1954 example. ::Neil::

 

More Tilley X246 styles to ponder...

Cheers

Tony

 

Welcome abroad, Rosims. I don't have any Tilley experience to advise anything here. Nice fettle anyway.

 

Thanks all for your help. Got her going today. Also running along side my 1944 Coleman.

 

@Graham P

Just catching up on some of the older posts and noticed you linked in one of my YouTube videos. Many thanks for that,

Regards Jeremy

 

Your videos are infinitely better than that other guy who uses a rotary wire brush on brass tanks and sandblasts enamel hoods! That was scary and upsetting to watch!

 

Well, Jeremy's a professional or at least on par with that. There's no comparison as far as I would say.
The wire-wheel guy makes a good candidate for the main cast on one of Classic Pressure Lamps Horror series...just joking a little...no offences to him.