There’s a block in the control cock body of my BR49A, I was perhaps wondering if the end of the pre heat control stem was damaged or broken (inside the body, would explain the block?). If anyone has a similar control stem they could check the length of against the above photo, it’d be much appreciated. Thanks folks, Stevie
After more faffing than fettling, I’ve eventually managed to clear the blockage in the valve body.... ....which has now highlighted a new problem. Even with the pre heat valve fully closed, fuel is continuing to flow.....Perhaps the previous user blocked the pre heat feed for this very reason? As is now, the lamp can’t be used (constant trickle of fuel to pre heater)... Ah well, time for plan c.... Stevie
Isn't there 1mm difference in length there? Might be enough to explain it. I might think to add a solder blob on the end if it will take it. If that improves the situation then think about using silver solder or braze to make permanent. Looks like brass - is it?
@JonD Hi Jon, the end of the spindle is slightly concave plus there is some light scoring on the non threaded end. I’ll do a bit more research before I start making any mods to the spindle. There’s no stop on the threaded section, so I don’t believe that the length is an issue. I can’t make out how the stem stops the flow, is it the end of the spindle making a seal or the threads? I don’t want to bugger anything up, so will go slowly! Yes, it’s brass. Thanks for the input! Stevie
@BigStevie I think mystery solved thanks to @Stuart Taylor In the reference section is this. You probably have the ball version and that explains the concave dimple. Could be it's been displaced as described or lost.
This picture makes the concave dimple look bigger than it is. I'll take mine out to the shed today to see if I still have the ball. Well found @JonD and thanks for the info @Stuart Taylor .
Hope this leads to a cure. Those typed Tilley instructions have a typo anyway. Talks about undoing the valve spindle 234 more than 2-3 turns. 234 is the seal washer while 247 is the spindle itself. Today we have delete and backspace keys, search and replace etc. Back then they had a gritty rubber eraser and they could only type over the remaining mess.
Thanks guys for all the input. Today’s idiot award goes to me. My brother is staying at the moment, while fiddling with the lamp this morning I said to him that I thought a small ball bearing would probably fix the problem...... I had no idea that it did indeed need this small but vital component as I hadn’t been able to find any reference to it in the Tilley parts lists (and it was missing from the cock). So folks, all your time helping me was due to my ignorance. I suspect this won’t be my last visit to the realm of the blindingly obvious. Somewhat ashamed, Stevie
@BigStevie Don’t be hard on yourself. I’m sure there are only a very few people here that knew of that mechanism. I certainly had no idea. I checked my BR49 after seeing Jon’s post and it has the tapered end, not the ball bearing. Cheers Tony
I did not know about the ball baring either. Without your post I still wouldn’t. JonD is the man of the hour on this one.
Same here mate. Had no idea of the ball bearing variant. So thanks to you Stevie, we all know. Cheers Pete
Credit belongs to @Stuart Taylor since without his upload we would be none the wiser. Just need to find a BR49 of my own now .
Again, thanks folks and especially @Stuart Taylor. Interesting as @Tony Press mentioned, his BR has a tapered valve rather than the ball bearing type. I wonder which was the original design and which was the modified? Stevie
The typed doc is pretty clear that the ball design replaced the needle version, that said, there is nothing to say they didn't revert back later.
You’re quite right, and I suppose that my lamp being a 1960s BR it would have the later design. It’s a shame the Tilley document is undated. Looking more closely at my pre heat valve spindle I can see that the dark tarnished area (that exposed to the air) is screwing into the collar about 2mm further than it should! I should have noticed this earlier.... Stevie
Next you need to find something that will provide you a 2mm ball. It could be tricky to find one from the scrap box or in something that could be dismantled to steal it's balls.. These guys have always given me good service - usually around 24hr delivery. 2mm Diameter Grade 100 AISI 316 Stainless Steel Ball Bearings Simply Bearings Ltd
