Hi all i have this Coleman Table Lamp not sure on the model but need advise please. Can someone tell me the black valve wheel where you turn off/on the table lamp theres a carbon packing nut inside the sleeve that screws on. Now theres 2 parts to remove before getting access to the carbon packing nut. Theres a brass clip and some round slip thing. Hope people know what im on about. How do you get the brass clip off. Surely you dont need to keep bending it on and off. Guessing after time it would cause it to break. Is there a trick as you have to really bend it up to get the clip off.
That internal clip is to stop the valve spindle coming right out and causing some excitement. Not often you need to dismantle this part. The carbon packing lasts pretty well for ever and only needs a tweak now and then of the gland nut to maintain the seal. So bending the bras clip once very 50 years or so is not really a problem but I wouldn't even try. If the gland is leaking just undo the gland nut back, shove a twist of Teflon tape in there on top of the carbon fibre and replace the nut. ::Neil::
Hi BlueFlame doing a complete strip down and restore and have the genuine coleman carbon packing nuts to replace the old. When i strip and clean a lamp everything gets cleaned and replaced. Gotta love OCD :-) Hi Neil, so i can understand how these Coleman Table Lamps work, is this model the 169K or 329BC Coleman Table Lamp ? Dose this table lamp have the same pickup tube inside the tank as both kerosene and coleman fuel models ? ? Is the restrictor tube the only part that dictates if these table lamps run on fuel or kero ? So in theory i can use an R55 Generator as long as i fit a burner tube thats fitted with a Restrictor Tube with the 2 dimples at the back pictured. Are the 2 dimples the only way to tell if its a kero burner tube ? And if i want it to run it on Coleman Fuel i need to pick a burner tube without the 2 dimples ? And keep the R55 generator ? I’m trying to understand if the fuel pick up in these lamps are the same on all models, and the only thing that dictates whether it runs on kero or fuel is the burner tube Have i got this rite, i have attached photos of my lamp and burner ? Kind Regards Darren
When there are dimples in a Coleman twin mantle burner's air tube, that means that paraffin/kerosene is the fuel to use, an R55 vapouriser/generator is correct for the 169K table lamp, which is the lamp that you have and a meths cup should also be fitted. The link below shows relevant information. https://classicpressurelamps.com/threads/1935-ca-coleman-169k-advert.1429/
Thankyou Jeff appreciate the advise. Are these a common lamp. Tell you what was a headache was the brass o ring clip that you have to bend to get access to the valve to replace the carbon packing nuts.
The 169k does turn once in a while, but in my experience, they are not common. One example which I had started to leak from the base plate, but the base plates are made from steel so they can be repaired fairly easily, but once a base plate has started to fail it may develop other leaks, so it's probably best to use a tank sealant on the inside of the tank. I currently have a CQ., tank which has started to leak from the base plate and over the years I have had a few 168k tanks which have also leaked from their steel base plates, the rest of the 168k tanks are made from thin brass and it often cracks. In my experience the 168k is far more common than the 169k, so if the 168k tank is leaking badly, then I just strip the lamp for parts and scrap the tank. The Shetland climate is not kind to anything and metals are not an exception. The links below show my examples of the two aforementioned lamps. 1937, Coleman 168K table lamp (Made in Canada) 1936 Coleman Canada 169-K.
Thankyou Jeff your full of great information and its been very helpful. I hope when i go to fit the packing nut the carbon one that i can get the bent brass o ring clip back on. I need to some how try reshape it back on tight. Any tips or tricks in doing so, or can i use something else thats just as good.
Hi @Kiwiboy00 The ring that retains the original packing on my 169K is steel, not brass. However, the reinstalling the ring would be the same procedure for both varieties. After putting the gland nut on, then the graphite seal slide the small steel collar on ..... Note that the steel collar has a countersunk end and the other end is straight. The countersunk end goes against the retaining ring. To reinstall the ring, bend the ring closed just enough to allow the ring to tightly slip into its groove in the valve shaft. With a small pair of pointed nose pliers carefully work around the ring squeezing it closed about the shaft. Here is my 169K example running on straight kerosene, please note the fount colour is not an original colour but was selected my by wife. Hope this helps. Cheers Pete
You know what Pete i really don’t mind that colour thats being honest. I probably caused my self more work removing the packing nut, but its done now. Some great advice i will follow your steps when i put the valve back together. Guessing i unscrew the valve shaft all the way out before tightening the nut up ? I thought i had a few carbon packing nuts but cant seem to find them. I also need to get a new o ring for the fuel cap, but at a loss where to buy a seal that will fit. So I emailed Mike at old coleman parts and awaiting to hear back, but postage says its $25.00 USD thats not including the parts. So i currently cant afford that at this stage for a few seals and a couple of packing nuts. “Such as life” Vition vs Nitrile i have no idea what seals are better for lamps..... So Pete im stuck, have no seals and no packing nuts Also Merry Christmas mate, and everyone who reads this. Kind Regards Darren
@Kiwiboy00 The parts are all available from Mike at Old Coleman Parts as you’ve seen. The US$25 cost is a standard covering postage cost. However, Mike always refunds the difference between this standard postage charge and the actual postage cost. I have regularly received quite large refunds on small packages. If you PM me your postage address I send you a filler cap seal and a graphite gland packing for your 169K’s valve shaft as a belated Christmas present. Merry Christmas mate. Cheers Pete
@Kiwiboy00 Viton is preferred over nitrile for fuel seals. Fuel grade Viton sheet in various thicknesses can be bought on line; or you can get the Fettle Box to make up what you want. Tony
Thats very kind of you Pete i have just sent you a PM. I would feel better paypal you the money Pete. Hi Tony Fettle Box sorry have no idea what that is or where to buy one. But very interested in it. Ok i have 2 Coleman CQ Lamps that have been ill treated and another table lamp with a bent burner. My question to you all can someone please put up photos of the correct burner frames/tube & mixing chamber/plenum so i can restore them back to there original state. Below are the 3 lamps that i now own, but i stuffed up again removed all the burners pulled them apart for cleaning and have no idea what burners go on what lamps. I have 10 plus burners/mixing chambers/plenums that are all in parts in boxes, so i will need to build up the burner frame from scratch again for each lamp. Can someone please take a photo of the correct burner frame for each of the lamps below so i can copy and build the burners to suit the correct lamp. I have the burner tubes/mixing chambers and so on, just no idea visually what goes on what lamp. Also one of the CQ lamps has a stamped date 26 7 what date dose this mean. Can someone please tell me what model number the cream lamp is pictured below. Sorry working off an iPhone screen, fat fingers are to blame if sentences don’t make sense Kind Regards Darren
Hi @Kiwiboy00 The lamp with nickel plated fount appears to be a QL/C made in Canada July 1926 (date stamped 26 7). I have one dated 1929, however it’s in the fettling queue and I haven’t broken it down yet, so no breakdown photos, just some of it’s pre fettle shots. The lamp with the cream painted fount could be a 157C (your photo is not clear around the valve area to be more definite). Here is my example: The lamp with the bronze paint appears to be a 169K. Here is a breakdown of my green one shown earlier in this post: As to the parts All three lamps use the same graphite seal packing. It’s the smaller packing seal shown in the Old Coleman Parts inventory. The filler cap seals are different, the QL/C and the 169K utilise an external air pump, however their seals are different, the QL/C being smaller. The 169K and the 157C filler caps are the larger variety that’s of the size similar to the Coleman 220 series of cap seals. I believe that I have all the above parts here. It looks like you will need: 3 x graphite valve shaft seals 1 x small filler cap seal for the QL/C. 2 x larger filler cap seals for the 169K and 157C. I’m happy to send you these parts. I’ll PM you the confirmation and because of the quantity, I understand and appreciate your desire to reimburse the costs, but it’s Christmas and one day maybe you can help me or someone else out. Cheers Pete
Wow thankyou Peter very informative post love the photos this will help me immensely. Here are some burner tubes that i have yet to clean up. I did notice that the middle burner tube has a bigger hole where the generator goes, not sure why this is. I also noticed that a few of the burner tubes are all long apart from 2 that are short, once again not sure why this is. Note: I have a burner tube/mixing chamber that is totally different from the others, It has dates and writing on this burner tube. Not sure what lamp this belongs to. I do apologise for the photos being everywhere and out of order to the post questions. I’m finding it hard to post photos on my iPhone with the writing below each photo question Last of all i was going to fit this burner pictured with the stamping 5 to my 169K, im hoping this is the correct burner for the 169K as shes a beautiful colour and in great condition. Not sure what the stamp 5 number means. And I do hope it’s the correct burner for the 169K. Why do i see some burner tubes where the figure 8 bracket screws onto the valve and burner frame offset to one side of the lamp and not front on. Is the 169K burner 8 bracket supposed to be offset to the side of the lamp and not flush & front on ? Then i notice some lamps where the figure 8 bracket is flush and front, not off set to the side of the lamp. What is the factory way they were brought out ? Side on or front on. I see yours is on the side Peter that figure 8 bracket. Hope you know what the hell I’m trying to get at as it’s hard to explain when I don’t know the part name let alone trying to get the photos in order Sorry if this post makes no sense, fat fingers working off a small iPhone screen. Kind Regards Darren
