Veritas 350 - Look What Followed Me Home Today

With the above 2 photos, what exactly is the article in question, as in the NRV? Cheers fellas.
And Neville probably hasn't changed much since your younger days!

 

@Damien

The NRV is in the bottom of the pump tube.

Tony

 

@Damien

Not a good photo, but:



Cheers

Tony

PS: Is the Black Stump Hotel at Trunkey Creek still operating? I probably consumed more beer there than I should have...

 

Ha! I gave up the booze 14 years ago.... but last time through Trunkey Creek the only place with any life was the pub!

 

@Damien
The NRV (Non Return Valve) is located and screwed in the bottom of the pump tube attached to the tank.
A specifically designed tool will need to be used to remove it. See my longish post that describes such a tool that can be bought via the bay of evil, or, as further described, you could make one from some brass or steel rod.
Let me know how you go.
Cheers
Pete

 

I'm sure the commercially available tool will work but making your own is easy and most people seem to find a home made one better. The ones you can buy have a tendency to chew up the end of the NRV making it a nightmare to get out. Essentially, if you find a steel rod the right size and cut a slot in one end with a hack saw that's pretty much it. Secondly, if you hold the tool in a vice and turn the tank it makes it so much easier.

 

@Damien what @Colin said.
Cheers
Pete

 

Now I see the light!! It makes perfect sense now, because as I push air down the tube, it goes into the fount but it's not allowed to escape, hence the words NRV!
Sorry blokes... I've been in a dark room looking for a black cat that isn't there... as the saying goes.
Ok... is there an ideal sized rod? Is meant to be solid brass or steel? I obviously don't want to damage the actual tube, which I'm tipping is brass.
All good... I can tinker away with some gear here now that I know what I'm trying to achieve. I'm assuming that the slot screwdriver bit may have worked in the lamp's heyday, but Pete's given me the caution on that topic, with many thanks from yours truly!
Your brilliant post Pete was and is bloody brilliant... I just had the wrong piece of gear in mind.
So today's project is............... steel tubes or solid steel rod, hacksaw, file, grinder, wire wheels, ..... did I mention patience???

 

@Damien
No worries mate. We've all been there and we're only too glad to help a fellow lampie.
I actually used a steel rod that fitted down the pump bore. For mechanical advantage the greater the diameter the better, I just had a bit of 15mm (5/8") diameter rod handy that I cut a 5mm slot into the end. Stabilising the fount (tank) I inserted the slotted end into the pump tube to snuggly fit over the NRV. I used vice grips to hold the rod and then unscrewed the NRV out.


Cheers
Pete

 

Beauty Pete.
What depth was the cut?

 

@Damien
I made the cut depth approximately 10mm. That’s more than enough for the NRV’s head. I drilled a hole first then hacksawed cuts to each side of the hole thereby making a 5mm slot. If it’s a bit too tight, a file will widen the slot to a firm fit.
Cheers
Pete

 

Perfect Pete. All done, cleaned and back in. Spring now works well, nrv is now behaving like an NRV! The fount now holds pressure...... now there's a problem with air escaping from the join/thread at the top middle of fount, as in where the "mixing valve" screws into the fount itself. Is that brass piece that looks a bit like the letter H, with all the threads on it, is that called the mixing valve? As in the brass piece that actually screws into/onto the fount.
Cheers again.

 

@Damien a photo will help determine what part is leaking but if it's the bit I think it is, there may be a leak from the central boss that should be securely and permanently attached to the fount. If this is the case you have two options... use solder to fix the leak on the outside, or use a tank sealer on the inside. Both of these are tricky. But it might not be either.... we really need photos to be sure and maybe an arrow to show exactly where the air is escaping.

 

@Damien
Yes a picture or 2 would be good.
If the leak is from around the thread of the valve that screws into the tank’s receiving boss, You could use, like I did, a thread sealant paste. Mine originally had a fibre washer. The thread sealer, loctite blue, did the job well.
Cheers
Pete

 

I'd definitely be interested to know how you did it Pete... I've never used Locktite blue... will it seep into a joint using capillary action?

 

@ColinG
The product I use is Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 and is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. It’s of medium strength and is designed for applications on less active substrates such as stainless steel and plated surfaces, where disassembly is required for servicing. This sounds like a spec sheet, that’s coz it’s an extract from one.
I apply a drop or 2 to the male thread and a drop to the female receiving thread and screw them together to the desired clocking / indexing position and let it setup, approximately 10 minutes with a full cure in 24 hours. The loctite blue, on screwing the parts together, spreads through the troughs of the thread. This product touts to protect the threads, I guess from galling.
Cheers
Pete

 

I do have a Loctite product that is specifically for threads. Mine, too, had an orange coloured washer... I know this particular washer material has a name, but I'm stumped as to what it is. Puts me in mind of the flat tap washers that one gets on brass taps in the household. It's reddish/orange in colour and I think it's a fibrous material as Pete mentioned. I know it may be heresy, but would an o ring with an internal diameter of 3/8" do the trick just for testing purposes? It's the bottom thread of V2/11A. The fuel control valve!

 

Fibre washer. It's as simple as that. As long as it makes a good seal, I'm sure an O ring will be suitable for testing. You may even get away with it as a permanent fixture.

Henry.

 

Thanks Henry. I'm just keen to light the bastard!!!

 

I've used a Viton o-ring for testing purposes and they' re great for that job.

 

Fibre Body Wahers seem to be the name of them Downunder, as in what I was trying to describe.
I see the Viton are solvent resistant and better than nitrile and neoprene.

 

The o ring seems to work where the fuel valve meets the fount, however, there seems to be fuel/air escaping from the gland nut on the fuel control knob

 

@Damien

That "gland nut" (I think you are referring to the "packing nut") should have graphite packing inside. After getting it in place and tightening it, if it leaks, tighten it 1/4 of a turn and see whether that stops the leak. Turn a bit more, if it still leaks. If it gets really tight and leaks, you will need to add more, or replace, the graphite. You can also use high temperature PTFE plumbers' gas tape if you've got no graphite.

The problem with O-rings in places where a flat washer is usually used, is that they can distort under pressure. Use them to test, but go to the original kind of washer for long term use (IMHO).

Cheers

Tony

 

Cheers Tony.
Theres also the nut near the o ring in the photo on the bottom of the vapouriser tube, and the nut that holds the pricker rod...... are all these, and more, potential leak points for air/ fuel?

 

Is this the nut and thread that's meant to have graphite packing? All I've got on the male end is some sort of gasket cum o ring type washer...... which doesn't want to come off! It certainly leaks fuel through this thread, and if I keep tightening it, the fuel control knob itself gets very hard to turn.

 

@Damien

Unscrew the control spindle all the way out and look in the parking nut.

By the way, the one I pulled off just then had a useless hard rubber washer of sorts (obviously past it’s use by date) rather than graphite. Tilley use that system.



Tony

 

I have a Lind-O-Lite table lamp that I have tried everything but the kitchen sink to remove the NRV. I have made tools, soaked the NRV with penetrating oils and I haven't been able to remotely budge it. I have tried on and off for 3 years to get the NRV out.

Lord, I hate NRV's.

 

Matty, I ended up using Pete's idea and getting a bolt about 250mm long, with a diameter of about 14 to 15mm. I cut down about 10mm in the middle of one end and made a gap about 5mm wide in that end -using angle grinder and hacksaw, then finished it off with a bastard file that happened to be 5mm wide on its edge. Because of the physics involved, I got easily enough force to turn the head of the nrv. All this, of course, was due to members on this site!
And thanks Tony. The nut in question has NO packing of any kind, just the odd looking rubber grommet/washer thingy on the end of the male thread. BTW, is this grommet thingy an original part? It seems not to be by how you're describing it.

 

@Damien

Fuelled by your success, I'll have another go at the Lind-O-Lite, perhaps make another tool similar to yours. Pray for me.

 

I'm praying, Matty.
BTW, have you purchased graphite packing and used it on gland nuts and packing nuts?
It seems to be sold by the metre and it appears to be solid square rope type stuff. I've no idea HOW ro use it. Do I drill a hole through it to put the spindle rod through???
Cheers fellas.