G'day all. I wanted to point out a paint that I use, why I use it and show some results. The paint is a Super Cheap Auto brand (SCA) called Metal Cover. The paint retails for $13 a can but if you follow Super Cheap you will find it two for one sometimes on special. I must point out that some of the reviews complain of blocked nozzles. One bloke thought the feed tube had blocked within the can. Those people state that Super Cheap either refunded their money or gave them a new can. I just used a can I haven't used in 6 months and it worked flawlessly. If I wasn't clear, I had previously used the can. It wasn't that I bought it new 6 months ago but this was the first time I used it. The paint can be used on non ferrous metals but I don't use it on them. I tend to only use the paint on steel parts because of it's qualities that arrest problems associated with steel - rust and the fact that you don't have to remove all the rust to use the paint. I do remove the rust via a vinegar bath and brushing but often it is pointless unless you treat the steel because the rust will return. The paint comes in a few colours including Black, White, Red, Silver and Pewter. I only use the Pewter and Silver colours. I use the Pewter colour on tanks that have a steel base plate because it is less gaudy than the silver. I did use it on an wholly steel Aladdin to seal the metal after de-rusting. The reason I used the pewter was simply because at the time I had more of the pewter than the silver. The Aladdin as photographed with the pewter paint on it, was encrusted with rust. In fact, it was so bad, I put the lamp in the bin. It was only my curiosity as to what sort of job vinegar would do on the rust that made me save the lamp. I cannot stress how badly rusted the Aladdin was. It was entirely made from steel. After I'd got rid of the rust, I prayed it with the Metal Cover and that was probably 18 months ago. I live right on the salt water, if something is going to rust, it will. As you can see by the photos, the paint has done a terrific job and not one skerrick of rust can be found. The steel is perfectly sealed. I should have dusted the tank before taking a picture, I didn't. so be aware that is all you can see, 18 months worth of dust not rust etc. The silver paint was used on the Veritas cage base plate. I dislike some silver paints because they are too bright and make what you painted look dicky. The Metal Cover isn't as gaudy as some, it seals the steel and looks decent. The paint is naturally 150 deg heat resistant so painting the cage base plate with this paint is even further reason I recommend it. I haven't decided if I am going to spray the struts of the cage yet. I will probably spray the bail arm Silver only because I think that is how they left the factory. Another great thing about metal cover is, you can spray bare steel, no need to prime first. Then, if the steel has got a cover on it be it primer or paint, you can spray over that without the need to remove the coating. So, if you have a rusty base plate with some of the previous coating still left, you don't need to prepare the surface apart from getting loose stuff off. It just makes the job in front of you so much easier and of course quicker. I have added a couple of photos and the paints Spec Sheet in case you wish to consider trying my advice. The paint being enamel is an added bonus in my view. I don't have shares in Super Cheap or Metal Cover. I just thought for those of you that don't know of this product, you might find the information useful. *Before applying Metal Cover paints, the surface must be thoroughly cleaned and free from grease, rust, wax, dirt and any anti-rust additives. Use a wire brush or sander to remove all traces of rust and expose a sound metal surface. Then use a lint free cloth to wipe the surface clean with SCA Wax and Grease Remover. *Think a vinegar soak.
@Matty This is an interesting read and points out an alternative product. Thank you for sharing. Cheers Pete
Martin, I can't find a specific answer to your question after reading the cans label. I thought we could do an experiment and find out for ourselves. I always save kero and petrol that arrive in the tanks of lamps I have acquired. I use that old fuel as fire starter when burning off Golden Palm fronds. here I have tipped a good amount onto the base plate of the inverted tank. I've swished it around and will do so a couple of times over 30 minutes and find out exactly what goes on.
I let the kero sit for about 40 minutes and used my finger to rub the base a couple of time during that time. I cleaned the kero off with a rag and rubbed very vigorously when wiping the base plare dry of the kero. The paint suffered ZERO effects from the kero despite me applying a lot of pressure to the rag when wiping it clean.
Thanks @Matty , you went beyond what I expected to answer the question. I have seen the paint for sale locally and now know I can use it with confidence.
Thanks I will see if SCA NZ also has that paint. I wonder if it could be somehow used on the inside of founts, whether it would protect against future rust? Perhaps there is the same product available in a non aerosol can.
I wanted to make sure that a product that I have suggested is worthy of the suggestion. I'd have hated it if you had of bought a can and then found it wanting. I was aware that SCA was in NZ. Yes, hopefully they do have the product - it is a very good product. Being naturally resistant to 150C temps and that kerosene doesn't seem to bother it, that makes it the perfect covering for cages. As I said earlier, I find the silver colour isn't as bright and gaudy as some. I've seen some resprayed cages that stick out like a sore thumb. Geoff, I wondered the same thing to myself in regards to painting the inner base plate. If the paint came in liquid form that you could put into an air brush doovey, perhaps a reasonable coverage could be obtained. I don't think that would be possible in rattle can form.
Well done on the paint test @Matty It shows due diligence and it’s very refreshing to see. Cheers Pete
The way the can looks bears a passing resemblance to Hammerite... do you think it's a Aussie copy? The fact that it can be applied over rust and it's corrosion inhibiting properties are both similar.
Colin, Retailers like Super Cheap Auto, that have their own brand of products under the SCA brand name, would use manufacturers like Hammerite to re-brand into their own. In an attempt to answer your question I looked through the Spec Sheets and one thing caught my eye. Hammerite state you can re-spray after 15 minutes whilst Metal Cover states re-spray after 16 hours. That to me, indicates a different product. It should be noted that Metal Cover states their product takes 4 to 5 days to fully cure. I highly recommend those types of instructions be followed. In the long run, it is worth putting the painted item aside for a week and letting it cure properly rather than being impatient and thinking the paint is hard enough because it feels dry. Geoff, As a follow up to my previous reply. Colour Range: I found a 90 sec or so second video that some may be interested in.
