Hi Folks I’m waiting for this lantern to arrive from a friend who does house clearance work. I’m thinking Primus 1051, what are your thoughts? I’ll let you know more when I receive it. Regards Jeremy
@Tive Thanks for the confirmation. From the pictures received and cross referencing in the gallery it looked to be the most likely contender however I have only ever handled a Primus 1080 once before and could not see any numbers on the fount. I’ll post more when in my possession. Regards Jeremy
Very interesting. This is either a 1050 or 1051, as already mentioned. Also, it has the brown top which is a bonus. What is not so normal is the tank and collar look like the first variation from before the brown top. I can't see the torch lighter though, which is also strange if it is a first variation tank. I'm looking forward to some better photos and what year there is on the tank.
@Nils Stephenson The anticipation is killing me! I’ll post more soon especially if the goddess of lamps brings it to me tomorrow. Regards Jeremy
I thought the little lever on the side was the torch lighter, hence i thought it was a 1051, i also noted that i has the older collar, and i was thinking it was an transitional lantern, but i guess it could be a home made variant :-), but most importantly it has the elusive brown hood..
The lever is for the quick starter. The earlier versions had an alcohol torch fitted to a well in the tank. The strange thing is that this alcohol torch is missing from this tank and it has the quick lighter, but the pump is still in the same configuration as the earlier version. I have never seen this configuration before. I'm actually a bit jealous.
Hi folks. Well it has arrived safely and upon closer inspection it is model 1051 and dated 1931 (V). I’ll give it a clean and post some pictures soon. Regards Jeremy
If I only had a brain... The lantern is a 1050 dated 1931 (V). Photographs to follow soon. Regards Jeremy
It's getting even more interesting. In 1931 they hadn't thought of the quick stater or the brown hood yet. I would have expected a date of 1933 or maybe 1932 considering the strange pump configuration. Anyway, this is not the first 1050 that has a 1931 date. I have seen another 1050 that is identical in configuration to what would be expected in 1933 (see mine here) but with a 1931 date. This has got me wondering if a batch of bases that were stamped in 1931 got used up in 1933. Using up leftovers could possibly explain the pump configuration on yours. Most likely a mystery that will never be solved.
Jeremy, congratulations on your fantastic acquisition. I can’t wait to see some photos and possibly a YouTube video of it being lit!?...Very jealous.
Hi folks Thanks for the kind words. I have had little spare time recently but have started photographing the features and strip down until I came to an area I am unsure of so I did a little bit of cleaning. To say I’m pleased with the condition of the hood is an understatement: For 89 years old the enamel is in excellent condition. Model number 1050: Date code V 14: Photographs showing the preheater: Photograph from above showing fuel type “BENZINE” “BENZELINE” “PETROL” “NAPHTA” Having disassembled thus far I’m not sure how to proceed further. The small disc embossed “PATENT SOKT” doesn’t want to lift over the preheater tube so what is my next move please? Regards Jeremy
I cannot believe the state of that enamelled top! It’s pristine! I suspect that lamp didn’t see much use, or the hood was replaced at some point in the past. It had your name on it back in 1932!
To get the aluminium plate off, you have to unscrew the preheater tube. It should just unscrew, but like most things it could be a bit stuck. With that removed the plate should be able to be wiggled free over the central fitting. Under that you should find a 22mm nut holding the globe cage on. It is not easy to get a spanner on it and it needs to be quite a deep socket to reach.
@Alex74 Wonderful, isn’t it! @Nils Stephenson Thanks for the information. I’ll give it a soak penetrating solution and see if the preheater unscrews later in the week when I have a few spare moments. Regards Jeremy
@James K Well and truly chuffed especially as it was saved from the skip and given to me! @george My first Primus lantern so there is a lot I am learning too! Mail checked and reply on its way soon (see below). @Alex74 I have had a very busy week at work and also outside of work too and today has been the first chance I have had to spend any time on it or do anything else for that matter. @Nils Stephenson Much to my surprise the preheating nozzle unscrewed without the application of any penetrating oil and the nut below the aluminium shield was only finger tight too. The whole assembly including the vaporiser and burner are covered in a congealed sticky black something which held a coat of dust and debris which in turn seems to have protected each part. I found the usual soapy detergent and hot water wouldn’t shift the residue and resorted to Gunk engine degreaser and cleaner which worked wonders. My next job will be to remove the collar (situated between the tank and the cage) but I’m not sure how to do so. Again I do not wish to cause any damage through ignorance but I can’t see how to remove the preheated control tap. The gland nut unscrews easily from the main unit but the levered on/off control does not pull out or unscrew as the lever hits the tank. Any advice on my next move will be gratefully appreciated. Many thanks. Regards Jeremy
@spiritburner Thanks Ross, it just scares the bejesus out of me in case I irretrievably damage some part. Regards Jeremy
Jeremy, that lever sit on a taper. That means that you need a bit of a force to remove the lever, but seldom very much. But it must be straight out from the tapered spindle. No turning in any direction, just axial out off the spindle shaft. I use a smaller wrench, or sometimes a pair of needle nose pliers, but anything similar will work. You just need to tighten the gland nut again, and then use that one as support to be able to pry the lever off the spindle by moving the wrench out or in as it sits against the gland nut and is in contact with the control lever. A large screwdriver can work too, but I prefer a wrench/pliers that distribute the force on both sides of the shaft. Or you can use two large screwdriver on each side and use to pull it all off. I imagine that you also could use the gland nut itself to pry the lever off! I haven't tried it, but why not? Fit two bits of steel opposite each other, or perhaps an open sleeve, big enough to just barely squeeze in between the fully seated nut and lever. Then unscrew the nut to force it off. Just an idea. It should work. Perhaps even a large cable tie that you tighten up against the shaft between the nut and lever could work. But the wiggly pliers/wrench/screwdriver(s) have never failed me yet, and only takes a few seconds to dig out and apply. (Of course the nut on the end of the shaft must be removed first. I only posted the picture below as a quick example)
That is one of the methods I use and it works well. You just have to have the space between it filled with an adjustable spanner or similar. Once you have the collar off there is not really any more to be pulled apart. The filler cap will most likely need a new washer. It is a three piece filler cap like the Coleman ones. A new washer is OD 18mm and ID 13mm. The ID is actually 12.5mm (½"?), but 13 works.
@Carlsson Thanks for the information, I’ll give it a try soon. I’ll also clean the parts up a bit first as I don’t see the nut yet as shown on your photograph. I’ll look again after our family meal. @Nils Stephenson Thanks again. I’ll be on it soon. Regards Jeremy EDIT: Replied to Nils - crossed post.
Hi folks Well, that was a baptism of fire! Soaked with penetrating oil (not WD) tightened up the gland and applied leverage...... And then some! I was just at the point of chickening out when with a sound like a small pistol shot it gave, hitting the wall the other side of the room. After a quick cleanup with Gunk (why hadn’t I thought of using this before?) here it is in all its naked glory: @Carlsson As I mentioned earlier mine didn’t appear to have a nut holding the lever in place. Upon closer inspection there is a short remnant of thread showing: Guess there is not much to be done about that, however if the lever fits back as snugly as previously that should cause no problems. Time for a break now, I’ll keep you all posted when I next have a few minutes. Many thanks to all! Jeremy
If you gently tap the lever back on its taper, that might be sufficient to hold it. You just need to be moderate when tightening the gland so it will move easy.
Jeremy, Well done. That’s great progress to my standards. I really like your gentle and methodical approach. I’m learning from the pros like you, to be more patient! I’m working on a Primus myself (the old 981) and that’s teaching me to slow down and think before getting the pliers out... Looking forward to see the next steps in your project!
Hi Jeremy, any more progress with your gorgeous lamp yet, or has life taken over again? Looking forward to seeing the next stage of the fettle! Regards,
