Preamble A week or two ago, whilst rummaging through an antique store in Toowoomba Queensland, I found this made in Brisbane HANDI lantern. The asking price was AU$78 however the proprietor was kind enough to let it go for AU$60. The proprietor didn’t know the history of the lantern other than it had been in her store for about 9 months. The lantern has been fitted with a glass globe marked “HANDI” and by all appearances its original to the lantern. The lantern was found in a dirty condition however, on a closer inspection the lantern's fount and burner air tubes are nickel plated, black enamelled hood and what appears to be the correct fuel cap marked with “HANDI” on one side and “Brisbane” on the other. The valve control wheel is black and is stamped “HANDI”. The Fettle The lantern was dismantled into its various components and cleaned. Excepting the glass globe and fount, all parts were immersed into vinegar bath for about 1 hour, removed, rinsed and brass brushed clean. The generator was dismantled and heat / quenched three times removing built up carbon deposits. The parts were then rinsed in clean water and put into a sonic cleaner to remove any rubbish and dirt from inside of the generator, jet, burner and other related parts. The Fount (Tank) To preserve the original finish, the brass nickel plated fount was carefully cleaned with a hand detergent using a soft brush and then polished with Mothers Mag & Aluminium Cleaner. The gentle cleaning exposed the original nickel-plating work in quite good condition with just a few blemishes caused by age and use. Paint The lantern’s nickel-plated frame was found to be in reasonably good condition, and I decided to retain the original finish with no paint touch-up or repair. NRV (Non-Return Valve) The sealing pip in the NRV was too hard and needed to be replaced. A new seal pip was punched out of 3mm thick Viton sheet and installed into the NRV. Jet Pricker The jet’s pricker mechanism, although operational had the actual pricker wire missing. I manufactured a new pricker from 1/16” brass tube threading one end with a M2.0 die. The new 0.006” stainless steel pricker wire was crimped into the other end using my home-made for purpose crimping block. Pump Leather The original pump’s leather was very dry, however, it looked to be in good condition. I re-oiled it by soaking the leather in Neatsfoot oil. The various components were gathered together for final assembly. Assembly The HANDI lantern’s parts were reassembled into a lantern. The Money Shot The assembled HANDI lantern was preheated using methylated spirits in the preheat pan and lit. After the methylated spirits was almost consumed, about 12 or so pumps of air were applied until the mantle was lit and glowing. Pumping a further 60 strokes on a near full tank of kerosene, the lit lantern settled down and ran flawlessly for over an hour. After the hour’s test run the lantern was turned off by closing the control valve. Further Information – The Differences Encountered I have a few HANDI Kero-Pet lanterns and this lantern has some parts that are different from the rest of my collection: The left-hand black topped lantern, perhaps the older version, has the following differences: In the earlier fount, shown on the right, the air pump tube is mounted slightly angled and nearer the fount’s top edge than the later fount version. The burner’s air tubes each have a threaded ferrule and nut to secure the tubes to the frame. The frame base has fewer air holes than the later versions. The frame to fount collar has the earlier micro holes allowing air flow. There is no hood locating pin on this lantern’s burner frame as in the later models. The hood’s retaining nut, of a slightly larger diameter than the later versions, is nickel plated brass and is complete with a captured brass domed washer. The black enamelled hood has different dimensions to the later models. QUESTION: What model is this HANDI lantern? Summary In this fettled HANDI lantern, all the original parts excepting the seals and pricker, were reused, including the generator’s jet. The fettled HANDI lantern lit and ran flawlessly, with a pleasant hiss, for its 1-hour test. I had a lot of satisfaction resurrecting and seeing this old performer strutting its stuff again. Thank you for looking. Cheers Pete
That's a nice looking KeroPet model 3 you have. Quite an early version as well. The only thing missing to give a good date is what the flame spreader looks like and if there is any stamping in the burner casting. I've got the details at home, so it will have to wait until tonight (DK time).
Hi @Nils Stephenson There are no stampings on the burner castings that I can determine. The flame spreader is a little unusual, the metal, steel?, mesh is recessed into the flame spreader’s housing about 6mm (1/4”). Hope this helps with identifying it’s appropriate age. Cheers Pete
@AussiePete hi Pete, what you have there is the hood and collar are very close to the early swift lite handi, the air tube and burner are from a later date, before the fixed pressed in air tube attached to the frame plate, the older air tube attachments bolted through the frame plate, some had a mesh frame covering the bottom of the air tube. If the hood dose not have a hole for the little spigot to align the hood burner it would probably be an AGM burner hood. The spigot part of the tripod seems to be missing. The cage plate and the holes changed as cost measures came into play. The collar early handi's didnt have the distinct handi badge and when they did start to attach them they were rivited on and usually just brass no colour.The generator if kero has a curly steel flow restrictor, inside, if its a petrol it has fine brass mesh, the will be a stamp letter at the jet end. The ecentric block is from an older handi, the more later one have the rack and pinion on one side not all around. Dating is hard, they were all called type 3 I can post pictures of what i think are v 1 and 2 Early swift lite / AGM. Great fettle of your handi, good disply and narrative, i realy like the handi's they are a favorite Australian made lantern. The hoods came in common grey, red, black and blue
@AussiePete Ok, now I have had a chance to look at my records. What you have is either a version 1 or version 2 KeroPet model 3. The biggest difference between the two is the flame spreader. Here are examples of a version 1 and version 2 flame spreader respectively. The version 1 had a ceramic flame spreader insert and the version 2 had a small diameter wire mesh insert. From your description I would guess it is version 2. Without going into details, some of the other features of yours points to a version 1 so this could be from the changeover period. V1 is from about 1940 to 1945 and V2 from 1945 to 1947. That would make your 1945. Edit: I've just had another look at your photos and can see there is a horizontal patent number in the burner casting. That confirms it is a version 2. BTW, the grey top one is probably a version 10 and from the mid 60s to mid 70s.
Thanks @Nils Stephenson My burner is identical to the second or version 2 as shown in your pictures. Yes, I do now see the patent number on the burner manifold’s casting, I don’t know how I missed that, getting old I suppose. This would confirm that it’s a version 2 KeroPet model 3 built approximately 1945. Thank you for your research and information. Cheers Pete
@Darryl Durdin Thanks for your information. With your and Nils’s information it’s apparent that it’s a version 2 KeroPet model 3 built approximately 1945. I too like these Aussie lanterns, they light easily and run very well, good dark killers. Cheers Pete
@AussiePete A good find and a great post, Pete. Congratulations Now it's been identified you need to post it in the reference gallery.
@AussiePete , hi there ive taken som pictures of some of mine, it may help id a abit more. I think @Nils Stephenson is on the money, i see ceramic mesh burners in my oldest sw Swiftlight /agm v1 left to right, v2, type 3 handi Agm burner and hood, rectangular slot, keeper bolt screws into burner. Left is kero, right is shellite ift lites.other air tube feet arragements
Thanks @Darryl Durdin for taking the time to share your info. I'm confident that Nils is "on the money" in identifying mine as a version 2 KeroPet model 3 manufactured approx 1945. Cheers Pete
@AussiePete Not a problem. It's always nice to confirm things are original. The first label used turns up on the version 2 and is riveted to the collar as Darryl has shown. I have seen them with the remains of red paint, so they were painted originally. @Darryl Durdin If you ever need a hand identifying the different Handi versions, just send me a PM.
@AussiePete brilliant work and what a great looking lamp. Truly in awe of your meal working / engineering skills
@AussiePete Very thorough fettle. Well done. Great photos. I also reckon the original globe alone was just about worth the money.
Thank you all for your encouragement, and thank you Nils and Darryl for the extra information on this lantern, I've learnt a lot. Cheers Pete
Hi AussiePete, That is an excellent restoration job of a handi lamp. Could you provide some info on making the prickers? Do you still a fine hole in the end of the brass rod then crimp? I need to make a few up for my handi's. How did you get the gear mechanism out? I have one mechanism that is not working. Regards, Nicholas
Great fettle and a piece of history preserved. Also demonstrated in this thread is the depth of knowledge on this board and willingness to share the same. Wonderful ! Thanks all for your efforts.
Handi's are a well made lantern, I have one and it runs well. Very bright. The globe on mine is marked Handi Phoenix, made in England. The globe appears to be original to the lantern. Rarely run it to be truthful as the globes are hard to come by and do not know if there are any replacements.
@Tony Press : thanks for letting me know and will get one. The Handi is a nice lantern and would be more happy running it with a repo globe.
@AussiePete I think this Handi of yours would make a good addition to the Reference Gallery. Cheers Tony
@Nicholas Aslanides in this post @AussiePete has used 2mm brass tube so no need to drill. He then crimped the pricker wire into the end of the tube. To remove the cleaning spindle, Unscrew the leaver from the spindle Unscrew the gland cap Unscrew the rest of the assembly from the control block and the entire piece should pull out.
Thanks you Robbo for that. It's amazing intricate these lamps are. I am have trawling Google trying to find the 0.006" pricker wire to no avail at all.
@Nicholas Aslanides I’ll search my computer to see if I still have the Ebay pricier wire vendor’s sight. If I do I’ll send you the link. Cheers Pete
