Tilley Wall Lamp Advise Needed

Need some advise, is it normal on the Tilley Wall Lamp for the tapered end part that goes into the tank pictured below to be slightly curving upwards, just slightly.

Below I have tried to take the best photos I could showing the slight upwards slant. I wanted to know if this is normal, or has it been bent. Its that flat tapered part at the end thats slanted/curved slightly.

Next I noticed the feet/pins on the tank appears to be different and not the same. Has this been tampered with or are variances in the style feet/pins. Please zoom in to see the differences in the profile.

Another question, where the swan neck screws into the tank, if you look closely at the tank hole it has black stuff in the hole. Is that a seal or part of the tank. Im not sure where the seal goes.

What is the date of this lamp and dose it rake a post or pre-war gallery. What size Vaporiser is the correct one for this lamp.

Below on the white paper I drew the angle of the tapered flat end that appears to be on an angle in the direction of the pen drawing to try and explain what I’m going on about.

Thank you in advance

 

From my limited knowledge, here goes.
I think any slight ‘bend’ in the swan neck where it attaches to the fount has to be expected. I’m supposing originally it would have been more or less at a right angle.
Black stuff. It should be a lead washer, not a rubber seal, so perhaps lead residue?
I believe the slightly thicker foot is the later type. Mike at The Base Camp has some of these.

I’m sure others will be able to add more.

 

Stevie is correct, the pipe has bent a little, but so long as it does not leak then I would leave it as it is, the seal in the orifice is lead and that is correct.

One foot has been replaced at some point, but in my opinion, that is part of the lamp's history.

The earliest that your lamp can be is 1940, because it's socket is designed for the GF., control cock.
The later ones had some Tilley stamping on them and some had Tilley labels, the last Tilley wall lamps had a separate hanging ring which also had the feet attached to it.

This link shows the relevant gallery page.

Wall Lamps, Hospital Lamps & Chandeliers (WL & CL

 

Hi Stevie and thank you for your post. So if I clean the dirt and grime from orifice where the lead is located will i need to put a seal in between before screwing the swan neck into the orifice. I flicked an email off to BaseCamp asking if they had the other correct foot for this lamp.

Hi Jeff, thank you for taking the time to respond to my post. Today is Saturday in Australia and i will be cleaning this girl back up to her former glory. Just need more info about the lead seal, and if requires a rubber seal that goes in between before screwing the swan neck into the tank.

Might to as you suggested and leave the feet as found, to be honest I have OCD and like to try and get everything perfect, or as original as one can.

I think I will fit the pre-war gallery along with a 606 vaporiser. My reasoning for the 606 vaporiser is the top of the gallery will then be level with the top of the tank giving it a nicer appearance look.

Kind Regards
Darren

 

Hello Darren, just the lead seal is required, wall lamps are fitted with the 169 vapouriser and you could fit that wall lamp with a PL., hood so that it could be used outside and that would also be correct.

 

There is no need for rubber, the lead washer (part number 585) is the seal. Though it most probably will form a good seal when you re-assemble the lamp, it can be replaced if you feel the need. Personally, I've never had to replace the lead washer yet. Others may have different experience.
According to catalogues, the correct vapouriser is a 169 but it's your lamp and it's not a criminal offence to fit a 606.

 

Thank you Henry, so let me get this correct the led washer is in the Orifice or the tapered end of the swan neck ?

I was going to use a Dremel just to clean the orifice out, I’m just hoping it won’t remove the lead if that is the washer that I’m looking at.

Then again the tapered end on the swan neck looks like it could be a washer. Im not quite sure ....

Cheers
Darren

 

The lead washer is in the orifice, I would just give it a clean with a rag with some paraffin on it.

The end of the swan neck is clamped against the washer by the nut.

 

Quick update, I started the strip down process today and noticed that there is a very small crack seen in the photos below where the bolt screws into the legs. This cannot be seen once the leg is screwed back on the tank. Not sure if this is a common design fault for this model lamp.

Also noticed that the orifice was blocked with what appears to be lead or solder, along with grime. I managed to use a dremmel with a round wire brush softly boring out the inlet to the fuel feed, then plunge it clear with a piano wire. (Fixed)

I have managed to clean up the solder around the fuel pump hole and around the orifice hole, tidying it up. Started to sand the tank with 1200 grit then 2000 grit, slightly taking off decades of grime. (Personal Choice)

Im not sure on the history of this wall lamp, only that I brought it from England where it was a display peace in a pub, but was missing the gallery for some reason.

My question to the guys/girls on this forum, how can I tell if this tank was originally painted, or polished. The reason I’m asking is this tank has hundreds of pink spots pictured below. Now I’m not sure Tilley would of brought out a highly polished tank “new” from the factory with hundreds of pink spots throughout the tank.

Im in two minds to paint this tank universal gold, but the wife is saying polish it up and embrace the pink spots. Im just not sure what direction to go. Who else on this forum has one of these wall lamps that’s been polished. Do you have these unsightly pink spots throughout the tank. I would love to see a few photos to compare.

Regards
Darren

 

I would carefully solder that crack.

The pink spots look like brass that has had the zinc leached out of it. I could be from old age where the tank has no more lacquer coating over the brass, and pollutants in the atmosphere have attacked the brass, or it could be where something spilled on the brass.

It should polish out with Austosol and elbow grease.

Tony

 

Hi Tony I tried Austosol and had no luck its deep I think. Ive started on 1200 grit sandpaper and still its stubborn and not budging. Can i ask you and I understand it’s a personal choice, but I still wanted your feedback and others. Would you polish it up still leaving the pink spots, or spray it with VHT universal gold.

Cheers
Darren

 

@Kiwiboy00

The first thing I would do is stop using sandpaper (regardless of its grit: your lamp is shiny). All you are doing is removing metal. I can’t understand why people remove metal from valuable objects unless there is a very particular problem to be solved.

I am not familiar with the finish of this model, so no judgement from me about the tank finish.


Tony

 

Yes - and even more metal is going to have to be removed to polish out the scratches which look quite deep to me.

Too late now but a 30 minute dip in cheap vinegar (or weak citric acid solution as an alternative) followed by a quick rub would have removed the grime but not the metal. Then a quick polish with Autosol (Austosol?) or Peek would have done it for me. I guess I'd have then sprayed it with clear lacquer to prevent having to polish it repeatedly - apart from that being a chore, it removes even more metal every time.

Just my two penn'orth...

 

Hi Darren!

Well done on the fettle and work to bring back your Wall Light.

I have seen those discolourations before after using paint stripper, so my conclusion is that it was painted.

It is your lamp to do as you wish...if you want to go to a stock finish , then a suitable gold paint will be available

If you want to polish out the imperfections then quite a bit more work is needed.

Personally, if a lamp had previously been painted, then I would re-paint, unless a previous owner had given it a highly polished finish.

 

Cheers David & Podbros for the response, very much appreciated.

Thought i would give everyone a quick update on how I’m going with the restoration process. Ok I spent the entire day finishing off the tank/feet & swan neck, below are a few photos.

I decided to clean and tidy up all the soldered areas around the tank giving them a beautiful even shape/finish. The feet have been highly polished, even down to the screws that hold them in.

The tank was a bloody headache to polish, but i did it to the best of my abilities. Note, I can see some paint on the back of the tank so it must of originally been factory painted. I’m not 100% happy with the tank as it still has fine scratches that I cannot remove, but it will suffice for now.

The swan neck was chockablock full of dried polish, on top of dried polish, on top of dried polish lol........ I managed to get a wire Dremel brush deep inside the swan neck tap giving it a good clean, removing years of polish and grime.

Next week I will start on the pump/cock/gallery.

Below are a few photos of today’s accomplishments.

 

Looks fine to me !

 

Thank you WimVe. I Just noticed my subscription had expired, so I’ve just paid now and re-subscribed.

This forum is amazing and I’m happy to support it. it’s been a valuable learning tool when dealing with pressure lamps.

Cheers
Darren

 

Looking good.

I'm afraid most of us have had this problem with at least one lamp. Persistant polishing will eventually remove enough material to get the surface level i.e, no scratch; but at what cost to structural integrity ?

 

Great progress!

 

Hum...I acquired a Tilley X246b that had been so polished that it looks like a stress crack is forming..

...There's a vertical crease line :/

 

Question I want clarification on please, dose my wall lamp need a rubber seal in between the lead seal of the tank and the swan neck, or did they not require one from factory.

Im getting conflicting information they need rubber seals between the tank/swan neck. Then I’m being told the lead seal is all they have ever needed.

Can someone advise how they originally come out from factory please.

Cheers
Darren

 

Just the lead seal !

 

Just the lead seal !

 

I can’t see anything in this thread that says you should use a rubber seal at that junction...

Tony

 

There are other forms of lamp forum discussions not just this one Tony. If you read my post i did not mention I’m getting conflicting information from this thread or forum. Don’t look for small things to nitpick on, it was a simple question.

Cheers
Darren

 

I wasn’t meaning to nitpick, but it must have come over that way.

You didn’t say you were getting the conflicting info from elsewhere; I just assumed it was here somewhere.

But between Henry Plews, Jeff Johnson, Neil McCrae and a few others here, they’ve forgotten more about Tilleys than I’ve ever known. I would trust their judgement on things like this. You’ve got a good benchmark.

Cheers

Tony

 

Hello Darren, you must have missed it, but I answered that question in my second post on this topic, but no worries mate!

 

No problem, appreciate the advice guys.

Cheers
Darren

 

Where can i buy part number 585 1x lead washer for my wall lamp. Dose someone have one i can please buy from them.

Sooner put a new one on as it will be running in the house, best to play it safe.

Regards
Darren

 

I don't think I have ever seen those as an available part. I would probably use a copper compression washer in there. That's what Blanchard used and they make a good seal. ::Neil::