Hi my first post on forum, ive done a search and seen the ideas of lead free solder but has tech moved along and come up with a heat proof glass glue yet?
I have found this stuff any thoughts please ? Cooker Oven High Temperature Silicone Sealant Clear- MIS167
Hi Tim and welcome. I have not found a glue that will put up with the change in temperature and the stresses that puts on the join. What are you trying to fix ? Chris
You could try searching for high temperature epoxy adhesives. I suspect there is a product out there which can do the job but it may be available only in huge quantities.
Hi Tim and welcome! I haven't heard of it but you could always try and message them for more info? Good luck with things
Suitable glue may not be as hard to find as you think. I found this glue in one search of the internet. https://www.bunnings.com.au/gorilla-236ml-glue-bottle_p1662679 I know collectors that have successfully glued shades and globes and they were fin when used on a working lamp. Just what product they used escapes me.
Matty, that glue may not be suitable. I use it for many things but it expands considerably as it sets so may cause further damage to the glass by opening cracks further.
Welcome @tim newcombe The silicone might work for a while since its quite heat-resistant(normally up to 180°C). Its soft, flexible and adheres well to glass. Its definitely not very fuel-resistant but that's not an issue here. It'll turn yellow after a while of heat and light exposure. It won't prevent further propagation of the cracks on the glass globe.
found this so will try it if it dosnt work will get new globe STOVE ROPE BOND GLUE FIRE ADHESIVE 50ml WOODBURNER QUALITY STRONG | eBay
I'm guessing that it contains some water-glass(sodium silicate) without any fillers. If that's the case, the stuff only works well as what the product was intended to be: in combination with ceramic or asbestos rope used in stoves. From my experience, sodium silicate is intumescent. It sort of expands or puffs up when heated to high enough temperatures. I suspect it won't look great on a globe after that.
One presumes this is a really rare globe you're trying to repair. It seems a heck of a lot of bother to go to if it isn't...
Agree, unless it's rare and you want to save it, let it go. What you could do is save it and only use it when the lantern is setting on the shelf, unlit. Use a generic globe if you can find one that fits when you lite the lantern.
I'm very interested in the matter as I've recently bought a pre-war Solex C200 in relatively good condition but the original Solex globe is cracked top to bottom. It' still in one piece except for a small chip at the bottom (where the crack ends) but if I fire the lamp I expect it to break on the opposite side (180 degrees from the crack) So far the only stuff that would definitely work is heat resistant silicone but this appears to always have some unsuitable color (red, black and so on) so it would make the globe look horrible. Of course, I can buy some windshield crack repair glue and keep the original globe just for display, while using the lamp with some HK250 globe but I somehow cannot find one that doesn't have the wrong inscription, be it Petromax or Suprax and so on.
The globe is cracked but still together. Because this glue dries to a clear state, I'd be placing it over the top of the crack with the glue adhering to the glass either side of the crack. The crack itself will act as an expansion joint.
Adrian, silicone is available in clear. Does not state heat-resistant but they're almost the same basic compound. Only without the fillers.
No way For example the red silicone used for improvised automotive gaskets (which stays very flexible after it cures) is a very different product then the usual silicone used around the house for various purposes. Of course the basic compound is similar but the final products have wildly different specifications.
Yes, the final products are different from each other. But still no harm giving the clear silicone a shot. Its only a little less heat resistant than the red, grey or copper-filled varieties and won't harm the glass anyway. The basic stuff is still an RTV .
What I am planning to do (after finding a suitable product) is something similar to repairing a windshield crack. Essentially to force the product inside the crack and allow it to cure between the two walls of the crack. Of course, on a windshield this is relatively easy as the outer glass is glued on a plastic film which stops the glue from just pouring trough the crack. Now, if I use clear silicone and it gets fried inside the crack it would be impossible to remove.
Nope. Clear silicone is basically not very resistant to a lot of organic solvents. They are at best resistant to oils. Its not really resistant to petrol/gasoline or even kerosene. Paint thinner would make them swell after a short while and easily removable. Anyway, if it really gets fried or oxidized in the crack, what you'd get is basically silica, and white in colour. You are not going to get the usual carbonized or blackened stain because it contains no carbon.
Indeed but it would block any subsequent attempts. Essentially I have one shot at it so I need to use a product known to work in such conditions.
I believe there are not many products that is suited for this, Adrian. Perhaps you can search the range of products by Aremco. @www.aremco.com
Its not old but my 9yr old has taken an intrest in fixing up tilleys so as we live in a world where far to much goes in landfill id like to have his thoughts to try and save things even if others see it as a throw item. its not a rare globe just a standard storm lantern
In that case, anything might just work. Its not common to find a 9-year old kid having interest in such items.
I'm not sure how hot would the glass globes get on an operating lantern, since I've not measured the temperatures on these before. I'll guess that it won't reach anything greater than 250 deg C unless there's a jet of flame from a punctured mantle directed on its surface. I'm guessing it could even be slightly lower than 200 deg C, which some silicones, RTVs would still hold. If its higher than 300 deg C, paper or wood touching the surface would eventually auto-ignite or get charred.
Probably it depends a lot on lantern model and size. A 300cp lantern with 12cm wide glass won't have the same temperature on the glass as a 250CP lantern with 8.8cm wide glass.
