I am fixing a 3-legged AL21 that has a leak on the lower part of the tank. I will use solder to seal it. But will regular 350degree be ok or shall I go for silver solder?
@tretrop . Hi there, if you have the skill test to do silver solder i would go with that, 100 times better, i have tried a few different solder jobs in the past only to resort to silver solder, i have a local fella who is a professional at it. I hope this eased your dilemma
@tretrop Use plumbers’ or electrical solder. You don’t need to use silver solder. Cheers Tony Edit: I crossed with @Darryl Durdin. The problem with using silver solder in that particular situation is that you run the risk of melting the solder seem in adjacent areas of the tank. A very high level of skill and ability to keep adjacent solder cool is required. The tank is sealed with lead (plumbers) solder.
@tretrop , @Tony Press The soldering i would agree with tony, tonys knowledge of how things go and whats needed and what to look out for far passes my knowledge, When ive had a senario, ive re enacted it on defunked lanters and tried practicing my self, to build a skill set, ive had some success, but like i said if its above my skill set i take it to a professional. Its realy good to know that some things only need plumbers solder. Good knowledge from Tony
If using electrical solder be sure that it is Tin/Lead 60/40 particularly if it is repairing an original solder seam. Modern electrical solder is unleaded and the two types don't agree with one another if they get mixed. Unleaded solder needs higher melting temperatures and it often makes dull looking joints. Special processes have had to be developed to use it in electronics. For repairing lamps it's the last thing you need. Once it mixes with ordinary Tin/Lead you get a sludgy amalgam which is useless until you clean back to bare metal and start again with only one type.
@tretrop Interesting. I have similar issue, also with a 3 legged model, but such a small leak I wondered if a tank sealant would work or even something external if the fitting was dry. Be interested in how you get on.
Thats got Cadmium in it... It wouldn't be my choice for this job, in fact I don't know what that composition would be intended for. It still has both lead and tin in it. Cadmium is poisonous go carefully with that. Edit - So it is very low melting point solder. Definitely would not be my choice since will not be what was used on the original joints. Might be OK for joining clean metal all the same.
@tretrop Well done, thanks for the follow up posts. I will attend to the small leak in mine soon too as it is scheduled for attention as it is still out on the bench. regards
@Sedgman my leak was at the lowest part of the tank, were it meets with the next part forward. I am sure it has a name, but lot of flux. Not to much solder and then a good heating. It melted quickly and that was it. Noting fancy, just wiped with a wett rag.
