Thread for fixing over drilled mixing chamber thread?

I have this lamp burner off of a Canadian lamp, it was in with a BUNCH of Coleman lamp parts and lamps, globe holder stud was broken off when received. I drilled it out, but was off center a little and when drilling a bit more, cut into the threads too much as I was unable to pry out the remainder before drilling more. Good previous thread for the fix or suggestions on how to snug up the stud? It will stay in place, but a little tug and it comes out. Photo is only of the front not the top.
Duane

 

Guess this style was used on USA models too, although hard to see both sides of examples. The lamp I took this off of I see now is from the USA.
Duane

 

I would think the stud is steel and it needs to be air tight; could you not silver solder it in place? Another option might be to rethread it one size larger and insert a brass bolt and then cut a new correct size thread so that the original ball nut is still workable.

I have seen these steel ones stuck fast at times, despite best efforts at loosening and then attempts to remove them result in the earlier breakage you described when you received the lamp.

Good luck.

Iain

 

I have no tools to rethread, although an option is to silbraze, I have the silver. Have advertised on the Coleman site for a burner.
Duane

 

If it threads in even slightly you can use Firefix or a muffler mender paste to hold it tight. This should make a good heat resistant bond.

 

Thank you. I'll look up Firefix.
Duane

 

Is it steel? If it is, filling up the broken area with purely brass(not silbraze) braze and then re-threading it would make a strong, permanent repair. Its done by many auto mechanics.
If you have a machine shop around in your area, you won't need to buy threading tools.
Otherwise, the muffler cement would do just fine since you won't need it to be very strong.

 

Not a shelf queen lamp. Looks like JB Weld has some very high temp stuff. Still waiting to see if I can find a mixing chamber like what I have.
Duane

 

I doubt that JB weld can tolerate those high temps. My choice would be to either tap oversize and use a stepped down stud or braze the burner hole closed and retap.

 

I think Duane is talking about this:

 

Yes, that is what I saw yesterday. Sounds good, just hate a more or less permanent solution.
I've been fortunate in the instant lamp collection I won in three lots at a USA auction of a deceased Coleman collector in that I have only had to buy or use a couple generators I had already. Has been very interesting to fettle them.
Duane