Hi all . This lamp collecting sure gets addictive !!! Can someone tell me if the burner assby from the standard stormlamp fits the table lamp also . I do mean the type with the screwed ends on the intake stubs of course . The gallery is fine but the burner although working is badly marked by previous owner I guess . Looks like it has had "treatment" with a hammer and vice !! I just want one that will look good visually . Also , I am considering buying a Bialaddin T10 table lamp . What should I look out for and beware of ? Some are listed without shades (Glass) I am wondering if these are available and if tilley type glassware would fit .... I suspect not . Cheers to all . Noel .
Yes the standard Tilley 300 cp burner is the same in table lamps and the lanterns. Even the new ones with sliding collar and split pin wil fit and work in a table lamp gallery. T10s are pretty good. Most parts are easy to find but bits that are not are the burner air tube end caps and the spirit cup arangement. Big problem with these has always been the enamelling on the gallery. So look for one with decent enamell and you also need to make sure the chrome trim ring is there around the base rim of the fount. The original globes are difficult. It is the same globe as used on model 310 lantern with a rounded lower shoulder and they do turn up now and then on the lanterns. However the later one for lanterns 315 and 320 will fit and work. They just don't look quite as nice. ::Neil::
Yes , good advice . Thanks for that . I have aquired a burner from the later Tilley . Split pin type . It fits well and looks much better than the battered one that was in my table lamp . If I can remove the threaded intake tubes from the original , I will replace the steel ones that are used in the later burner . So far , I have only managed to remove one of them . The others seem VERY tight . I have them soaking in oil at the moment but I have my doubts that they will ever come out . Strange that one of them was no problem at all . Cheers from Noel .
Tight end caps are a problem but they can be removed. Soaking is no good to me as I am an impatient guy and anyway there is an easier way. Heat the tube ends and caps to dull red and quench in cold water. Probably once will do the trick but do that twice and the caps will for sure be near enough hand tight. Sounds drastic but trust me it will not harm the brass because heating and quenching brass anneals it. Just don't ever do this where you have solder present but in burners it works a treat. ::Neil::
