I have a problem with my R1 that I just cannot cure . It has all new seals and washers and a new stainless mantle . I have cleaned the whole device really well and nothing is blocked . A good jet of fuel issues from the vaporiser and it holds pressure perfectly . It lights fine and burns correctly and the mantle glows quite well . I can see the blue jets inside the mantle . However , after about 3~4 minutes the inside jets go out and the flame burns outside the mantle . A blue and unpredicable flame that licks up over the burner area . I presumed that seeing I have covered most angles , it must be the vaporiser although it seems fine . I have tried cleaning as best I can without any luck . I have tried 2 other vaporisers from Tilley stormlamps . I know these to be OK as the lamps work fine . Exactly the same thing happens . OK for a few minutes and then all goes pear shaped again . More pumping does no good at all . Only allowing to cool and starting again works , but only briefly . I really am at my wit's end over this .... PLEASE HELP !!!! Frustrated (Manchester) By the way .... I love the forum .
Hi Noel! Welcome to the forum!! Have you got any pictures of the burner head? Is the burner head hot enough? Also has it got its ceramic tube etc? Cheers Adam
Anyone that like antique radios is all right by me. I agree with the others that something is letting your vapouriser cool down. If you have a video camera, posting your problem as it happens on YouTube might be a good way for folks to help you. I'm just say'n....
I have seen this condition only twice before and without seeing your burner I don't know but on vary rare ocasions the venturi unscrews slightly, or the wrong venturi has been fitted, which restricts the fuel flow into the mixing dome. Might pay you to dismantle the burner and make sure it is all screwed back tight. A picture of the burner complete and dismantled could help us here as well please. ::Neil::
Hi Noel, While it seems like this is a burner problem, there could be something else wrong in this system. To eliminate the burner, you could take the head off of the Guardsman, hood, burner and mantle, and put it on the R1, sort of like an R1 with a CH1 head. I think this can be done, although I don't have a Guardsman. If that works fine, then you can be sure it's the burner at fault. I don't think the R1 burner comes apart as much as the lamp burners. It looks to me like the top cap is not removable (although I could be wrong). R1/R55 burners new and used are plentiful. If the lamp head exhibits the same problem, then the burner is probably OK and suspect the control cock or feed tube. I know you mentioned that all was cleaned and not blocked, but it's possible that the control cock screen got clogged in the mean time, or the valve assembly is stuck partially closed, or you have a late model alloy cock which has been known to be problematic or the feed tube is partially blocked. What I'm getting at here is that if you have a partial clog, you'll probably be able to pump in enough fuel to light the burner, but after it's lit for a few minutes and the fuel in the vaporizer burns off, the partial clog will not be able to deliver enough volume of fuel for proper operation. I ran a quick experiment with my R55 (same system as the R1) and took out the cleaning wire from the vaporizer. I then brought the system up to normal operation and slowly closed the control cock. At one point, I got similar results to yours, no flame points at the burner and the flame licking up the burner head. Mind you, I had to use my burner head that has a new manufacture (not Tilley) mantle which has a loose fit at the top to provide the open space for the flame to escape (my original Tilley mantles have a tight fit at the burner head). Just some thoughts, Dan
Yes. Yes, I sometimes wonder about that gap at the top. Some Tilley wire mantles are a snug fit there (and I've one on my IF54 pig-heater with a metal band around it at that point to ensure a good fit). On the other hand, some other Tilley ones are much looser at that point. Also, original Tilley wire mantles have two small holes in the mesh down towards the bottom. Now I don't think we know exactly why they're there, but apparently the mantles don't burn well without them. I do wonder about the repro mantles - they're much smaller than the originals and I don't know why. For several reasons, you'd have thought they would have been made the same size. Anybody got a clue..? Sorry to divert the thread a bit - if anyone wants to discuss this, it might be better to start a new one...
Thanks to all who replied . Great !! Quite a bit to think about there . Someone remarked on the antique radio connection . Yes , that is my other passsion ... Restoring vintage radios . Good idea about trying a lamp burner and hood on the R1 base ., That would elimanate a few things for sure . Yes , the burner does not come apart on the R1 , but I have washed it out and poked out the jets etc and it seems OK . Although I am using a metal mantle with the gap at the top , I did originally use an old and perfect mantle . The results were the same .Sadly I broke the original mantle ... Grrrrrr !!! The cock is the brass type and not the later cheap alloy type but I have not done anything with that except to change the seal . Oh yes , just remembered . The tubular sleeve within the mantle is present and correct . After a few more tests , I will report on results . I was delighted and amazed to see such an interest in pressure lamps online here . I had no idea they were so popular . I really thought I was the only "nutter" around !! Cheers to all . Noel .
Nutter's Yeah alright But very "bright" , friendly & knowledgeable ones 8) 8) Definately bonkers Stu .
Hi Noel, If it does boil down to the burner being the problem get back to me as I have a spare, brand new R1 burner, surplus to requirements. Bought it only last week in a batch of lamp and stove spares. Also got some new "old stock" 169 vap tubes as well. Steve.
Hello Noel, I reckon that we all have had that thought at some time or other, I certainly did! Thankfully there are many fellow collectors all over the world, Jeff.
Hi On a serious note it sounds like your vap tube may be clogged with carbon deposits , I have today just heat & quenched a vapalux/Bialaddin bowlfire vap tube that was giving simillar problems this can feel like the cleaning needle does not move freely in the tube & can get stuck there should be little or no resistance when moving the needle in & out This process involves heating up the tube with a blow torch along the top two thirds until it glows cherry red ( do this safely in dim lighting ) & then quenching in cold water , don't over do it & keep the heat away from the screw end Do this several times & when you heat ( keep it red for a minute or two This burns the carbon up & loosens it ) it each time the water trapped inside will turn to steam & help to blow some of the burnt carbon out, when cooled after each heating gently tap the tube on some hard wood or a simillar surface so as not to damage the threads on the tube this will also knock some of the loose carbon out I have just been out to the workshop where my bowl fire is now going very well . If you don't feel confident PT me & i'll do it for you . Best regards Stu
Once again , thanks for all the great advice . I am now fairly sure my problem is the vaporiser . I have tried another from a lamp in it . Shorter I know but worth a go . It burned fine for much longer than the original (About 15 mins) After that time , the flames started to pull away from the burner but stayed inside the mantle . It also started to smell a bit (unburned fuel?) I am not sure that the vap I tried is perfect either but obviously a lot better than the R1 vap . What I do not understand is that I do get a good jet of fuel from the top of the vap so I would have though that meant is was OK . Is it possible that even though it is not blacked , it is still unservicable ? Maybe the carbon inside prevents the heat from getting to the fuel as it should ?? Regards and thanks to all the most helpful people who have given the advice . Much appreciated . Regards from Noel .
Hello Noel, try an unused vapouriser and that may cure the problem. Are you using fresh clean paraffin? Jeff.
No, fatal error... Your lantern runs on kerosene vapour not kerosene liquid. A jet of liquid kerosene from the jet indicates that the fuel path is clear - but no more than that. It cannot tell you that the vapouriser is capable of vapourising sufficient kerosene properly and delivering it to the venturi in the burner at sufficient velocity to ensure enough air is drawn in to produce an adequate amount of fuel/air mixture. Yes and yes...
Well , I have certainly learned a lot from all the replies and advice . What looks such a simple device can produce some unexpected problems . I am most grateful to all the people who contributed to the thread . I am now waiting for a new Vap tube to be delivered . I will report on progress when it arrives (photos also) Having eliminated all other possibilities , I feel sure that is what the trouble is . On days like this , a working Tilley would be just the job !!! More later . Regards to all . Noel .
The thing with vapourisers is that they don't just suddenly fail. As carbon builds up inside their efficiency gradually deteriorates - priming time becomes longer and the light output drops. The changes are so slow that most people don't notice the former and either consciously or sub-consciously, try to compensate for the latter by increased pumping which, in later Tilley tanks, can lead to the tank base blowing down. Tanks in this condition are scrap. Tilley and Bialaddin/Vapalux vapourisers aren't really serviceable because they don't have a separate nipple to remove which means that carbon can't easily be got out. You can clean the carbon from the pricker wire, try heat and quench or ultrasonic cleaners, but my view is these measures are simply postponing the inevitable. If you're happy with your Tilley, that's fine, but I'd recommend you try a Bialaddin or Vapalux lantern. There are usually stacks of ex-military ones on eBay going quite reasonably...
Hi Noel The device may seem simple , but the variables are many & for instance one mismatched vap tube may work on one older type burner where the heat is transfered well but not well on another newer sort etc Stu
Noel, New Vap tube on its way. It is an unused, older version of the 169 Vap tube, better quality than the newer ones. Good luck, hope it sorts the problem. Steve.
Well , at last the problem is solved !! After going through everything many times , it turned out to be the burner . Although this looked OK and seemed to be clear of carbon , I did find in the end that the inner part was lose . This may or may not have been the problem . So many people on here gave me their advise and helpful tips . It has been a great learning curve for me . I now feel as though I know and understand these pressure devices far better than before . I really am grateful to all who contributed to the thread and special thanks to a very patient and helpful member (Shed Man... Steve) who in the end supplied me with a new vaporiser and burner . Once these were fitted all my problems were over. Without all the ideas from this thread , I doubt "Tilley" R1 would ever have worked again !! Now on to my next project ~ A lovely Tilley table lamp that needs plenty of TLC . Regards to all from Noel
Hi all, I have got exactly the same problem with my R1 and having read all of the replies and advice I now have some ideas on how to go about trying to sort it out Thanks folks Brian R
I think I have got my R1 sorted now I managed to get a 7inch vap ( used ) and a burner plus spigot and ceramic sleeve, I renewed the pump washers, because the bowl was in a mess I have lined it with silver duct tape looks a bit lumpy but does the job, I also manufactured a wind shield from a hair spray cylinder and it works ok speeds up the lighting process I would like to put some pics on but haven’t got a clue how to do it
