Gold Mohar Lantern

Hi I have a question about rubber sealing in the one-way valve in the cerosine tank...
Does it have contact with cerosine can I replace it with a piece of silicon tube?

 

Hi Colin
I want to replace the rubber tip #17 in the manual photo 1-2 with peace of silicone tube photo 3.

The link down on page looks great but I don't know where to put all the washers.

 

I would not use the silicone material. The pups and washers sd by the Fettle Box and Base Camp are made from a fuel resistant material called Viton rubber I believe and I do not think the silicone should be used.

If you only need the pips, I think either supplier will be able to sell you only these.

If the silicone degrades with either heat or chemical action it will mess up the NRV.

Alternatively you can buy a complete new NRV for really not much money.

 

The rubber pip in the non-return valve is always in contact with the fuel(kerosene) in the fount when its filled.
Silicone rubbers are not fuel-resistant. They will swell and eventually disintegrate in the fuel.
A long time ago, I found that out. I made a pip by moulding it in the brass cup of the NRV using high-temperature red RTV silicone gasket material. I left it aside to fully cure before using it.
It worked ok initially. But later, the silicone seal failed as the pip swelled and bits of it went along with the fuel into the cleaning needle mechanism, generator and blocked the jet/gas tip orifice.
Silicone rubbers are usually quite resistant to heat, oils and water but NOT to common fuels(kerosene, petrol) and organic solvents.

 

Thanks MYN

 

Hi there
I have another question pleace...
On the photo circled... I screw the nut all the way I can, and as tight as I can and the top part is still moving...

 

Hmmm, your drawing is a little confusing. Do you mean the nut that locks the vaporising tube in position? The vaporising tube has the loop of tube at the top close to the jet. If this is still able to turn then something is definitely wrong but I'd need to be more certain of what you mean. Could you make a video to help us understand? You can upload it to YouTube and post the link... that's the simplest way I've done it anyway.

 

You should be able to turn the nut quite freely with your fingers till the cone-shaped end of the upper generator gets squarely seated/mated on the lower part's cone-shaped hole. Then tighten the nut with two spanners/wrenches. One holding the bottom part while torqing on the top gland nut.
The top(Preston loop generator) should not move at all once tightened.
If not, something is physically defective or mismatched. Check that the generator belongs to this lantern and the threads are correct. Check the conditions of the generator's mating parts...male(upper) and female(lower) parts.

 

Hallo I have two same lamps... the first is clean and I tried light it up...
But I done the preheating with alcohol and then I turn the wheel down and the whole cap started tu burn... the flames goes from the top part so I turn the wheel up anf slowly release the pressure to stop the fire....
What I did wrong?

 

My first thought is not enough pre-heating. Check everything is done up before trying again as well. If the jet/nipple is not done up fully or leaking this can cause what you have.

 

Please what you mean by
-nipple/jet is done up fully?
-is there a specific dimension between the jet and U shape tube leading to mantle?
-is it normal that after attempt of light it up there were smoke in the tank with the kerosine?

 

The jet that is screwed to the vaporiser tube can become loose and if this happens, fuel vapour and/or liquid fuel can come out and cause problems.

There is a dimension for the sir gap but it tends to change depending on the manufacturer. Also, as the jet becomes worn you can adjust the height to compensate

Can you explain where the smoke is coming from? It sounds a bit worrying and it would be nice to have more information.

 

When I turn off the lamp, release the pressure then I open the filling cap little smoke was coming few minutes out from the tank... from the filling gap

 

As Colin says, it can change a little but 14mm is normal.

The "smoke" is actually atomised fuel and it is normal for it to appear when a liquid that has been under high pressure suddenly returns to normal atmospheric pressure. Although it is not so dangerous when the fuel is kerosene, it demonstrates why a petrol lantern should be allowed to go cold before taking off the fuel cap.

 

Thank you
today I have had a succsefull attempt... It was very nice. But through the burn I heard squezzy and bubbly noise in the tank...is that normal?

 

Are you sure that it is not coming from the burner ? that can sound "liquid" sometimes if you have a little burning going on inside the burner.

 

Hello
I come back for an advise...
Can you tell me please where to put all these washers?
They are for Tillylamps and I have Goldmohar lamp but I think there isn't such difference...
Thank you for all your response

 

Hi Lubos - sorry - you think wrong. The Tilley and the Gold Mohar are totally different !
If you wanted washers for the Mohar I think a place to start would be Anchor or Petromax, but no guarantees of anything fitting.

 

money well spent

 

Buy a Tilley ? - they are easier to work with

 

Hi there I bought another lamp with rapid preheater in is brand new lamp from Manesmann but when it is ON in few minutes the mantle and burning chamber unscrews and it fall off... is there something that I can do to stop it?

 

Hi Lubos. Do you mean the ceramic nozzle is unscrewing or the actual brass burning (gas) chamber that screws onto the J (mixing) tube ?

 

Yes the ceramic nozzle.

 

This is more common on older Px type lanterns. A combination of heat and wear. It sounds like yours is bad from new. You may want to try another nozzle (or even complain to the seller) - but others have used exhaust heat paste or fireproof "string". It depends on how much space you are filling. You can also try the string from the old mantle

 

Also you could try the nozzle from the Mohar ?

 

Someone will buy it from you I'm sure. If not, you need to get a Tilley!

 

The string from old mantle works for now... but anothere question apears...
The pressure is on 2 and lamp sounds like a steam lokomotive and also the light is blinking...

 

Greetings Luboš,
I also have a Gold Mohar Lamp, but it's not complete. Do you have a picture of the needle attachment, please? I only have a threaded rod, no needles. Thanks.
Vaclav

 

Ahoj Vaclav
Mam 2 gold mohar lampy jedna je tiez nekompletna chyba tam zmiesavacia a spalovacia komora, ale ihla a vsetko ostatne je tam. Nemal by si zaujem o kupu tejto ja ju nepotrebujem.
Coho konkretne fotku by si potreboval?

 

Ahoj,
mě chybí jehla, mám tam jen tu trubku se spirálou a uvnitř tyčku ukončenou závitem. Bez jehly. V nálezovém stavu jehla byla, ale nějak nepasuje. Myslím si, že je z jiného typu lamp. Pokud máš jehlu a origo sklo :-) tak klidně koupím. Mám typ No. 560. Potřeboval jsem se podívat jak vypadá namontovaná jehla.
Díky, V.