I just bought a check valve removal tool. I had to, because it doesn't look like there are OEM or even replica check valves to be had for this model of lantern. Any tips for getting the check valve to settle down and do its proper thing? I already bought a can of carb cleaner. I will be busy cleaning up the rest of the lantern while I wait on the tool I ordered.
The 228E check valve is the same as the CV in all 220/228 lanterns from at least the C through the end of the line. Also the same as all 200a lanterns and all the suitcase stoves from 1945 on. If Old Coleman Parts doesn't have them listed it's because he is out of stock at the moment. I can't imagine Rob being out for long it is such a ubiquitous part. Having the tool is a good thing, especially if you plan on fixing more than one lantern/stove a year. With the tool CV removal is so easy it becomes a routine part of maintenance/overhaul. The proper way to use the tool (from the original maker) is too screw the rod into the CV, slide the outer piece over the rod making sure it engages with the slot in the CV, tighten the nut to hold the outer section firmly in the CV. (If your tool comes with a hex nut replace it with a wing nut, makes life much simpler). Here's the part most people get wrong. Fit a 5/8" open end wrench to the flats on the outer piece and give the free end of the wrench a sharp smack with a suitable hammer. Don't put the wrench on and try to apply a slow steady pressure. I use any of several non-marring hammers like a 1 lb rubber mallet, a wooden mallet or even a lead headed hammer, whichever is handy at the moment. It takes a little practice to hold the fount still and the wrench in place with one hand and wield the hammer with the other. I normally remove the CV after the rest of the parts are stripped off the fount. In several hundred lanterns and stoves the only CVs I had that were not salvageable were ones where there had been water in the pump tube and the ball in the CV was rusted enough to be pitted. Once you have the CV out it is easy to get at the ball with a toothpick or similar object. WD40 is a good solvent for hardened grease and oil which is what usually is clogging the CV. Get a can of WD40 with the straw on the nozzle and inject some into both ends of the CV. Let it sit a bit then start poking at the ball with a toothpick. Get the ball freed up and moving around, flush occasionally with a shot of WD40 and keep at it until you can hear the ball rattle when you shake the CV next to your ear. Wipe it dry and reinstall. WD40 is great for a lot of things but don't use it as a rust preventative or to lube the pump on your GPA. It is absolutely no good for either of those applications. It is also not a penetrating oil. It is great as a solvent for tape adhesive and dried grease/oil. Best of luck.
Old coleman parts should have the check valves fitting for nearly every coleman lantern. Also there is a size difference between 220B/Cs (milspecs) and starting from D the size went down a bit a believe, did you buy the 2 headed cv tool or the one size (this one works on the later lanterns)? Also once I remove my valves i just soak them in acetone for a couple hours cleans it up.
I purchased the two-headed unit, I believe. Not really sure. Instructions with the sale were the same as was presented above. I have acetone and carb cleaner. Just waitin' on the tool... Thanks for the info on the best way to get the CV loose!
A little acetone or carburetor cleaner should be all you need. I've yet to see one that wasn't serviceable after a good cleaning. I have even used a propane torch in a couple of extreme cases to burn all the crud out of a check valve. But these were one lot of lanterns I bought on Facebook. They were/are(I've only fettled 2 of 6) completely covered with what believe to be dried linseed or possibly some other vegetable oil including down in the pump assembly. The previous owner had gotten them from someone else and deemed them too much trouble to fettle but didn't know the backstory.
Well, soaking in the carb cleaner overnight did it! The check ball rattles back and forth, and upon insertion with my new check valve tool, holds pressure nicely.
