How to fix Bialaddin cage rod (without screws)?

Hi.
I have an old Bialaddin model 300X (1947-48?) with a broken rod in the cage. It is the upper, thin end which is broken, where it is attached to the "handle base". The rod is of the type being pressed in place (no screws). The rod is in brass. I wonder, could this be replaced or fixed?
Which method is recommended? ANd where could I get a new rod, is possible.

 

You could try to solder it.

 

Yes, that may be an easy fix. I wonder if it will hold if the temperature rises too much during use of the lamp?
On the other hand, this one will probably mostly be on display :-)

Thanks!

 

If you removed the other end, you could drill/tap the rod and secure with machine screws?

Alec.

 

If the lantern is being used outside or in a shed then it should not get to hot.

 

Hi @JEFF JOHNSON - This is what I initially considered, but I'm not sure that I have the tools or skills to drill with sufficient presicion. Also, the rod in question is connected to the base for the handle, so I would need to drill through the base also.

Probably I'll give it a try before resorting to the soldering option. :-)

 

Hello. A few models had threaded supports, and I have sacrificed a good few 305 cages to replace the riveted ones that have broken. I've most likely got a couple of spare rods somewhere in the stash, but we're currently living in chaos on a building site, and locating same may be a bit of a task!

 

Drilling is not a practical solution without a lathe or precision drill press to ensure a centered and staight hole. Tapping would require a tap and tapholder, usually an extra expense for the average lamp collector.
Sure, you can remove the still attached (end of the) rod and replace it with a screwed version (as on late 300X and 305 lamps), but then you will need such a donor. Soldering seems the more accesible method, and as suggested, using the lamp would not unvaryingly lead to a brake down of the soft-soldered connection. Mind, the lead/tin connection will show but given its position this would not be a problem. The best solution is the stronger connection made by brazing, that cannot get undone by the lamp's temperature, and will also blend in with the brass of the upper cage. It would also restore the mechanical state of these early rivetted, non-removable connections.