Need advice for a Coleman 220H

I need to clean the fuel pick-up going into the bottom of the fount. I cannot seem to break the fuel valve assembly loose from the fount. Does anyone have any advice?

I do not own a vice, so I’m trying to use the bench dogs on the workmate table to hold down the fount, but it’s not enough holding pressure.

 

Try heating the brass assembly block and then put penetrating oil on the threads; leave it for an hour or so; repeat.

I have only ever used a vise to do this job: set the block in the vise and turn the fount.

Cheers

Tony

 

Thanks, @Tony Press
I’ll clamp the brass in the workmate bench instead of the fount.

 

@Tony Press
It worked like a charm. No heating required. I just didn’t think of clamping the brass. Duh! I’m learning every day. This lantern isn’t special to me, but it has just been bugging me lately that it wouldn’t operate correctly.

Also, my (new to me) Perfection 525 Kerosene parlor heater is also keeping me warm in the garage. I got it as a present today.

 

Excellent!

Cheers

Tony

 

Permatex 2A non-hardening thread sealant is what I use on the valve threads.

 

Thanks, @Reese Williams

I did not apply any type of sealant on the valve threads when I reassembled the lantern. But I’ll look to buy some when I can find some.

 

That is a fine looking heater.

 

Thank you, @JEFF JOHNSON

It can sure put out some heat too. I will have to do some research on them to find when this was made. But I’m thinking around 1920 probably. The last patent date on their lengthy list on top of the the burner cap is 1919.

 

If you didn't use any thread sealer check the valve/fount joint for leaks before you reassemble the whole thing. Soap bubbles work well for the leak test.

 

Thanks, I checked. I have some PTFE tape that I could’ve used as well but forgot. It’s all good. Honestly, I never thought I would get it twisted back to the correct alignment. That is one tough valve to tighten.

 

PTFE tape tends to lower the friction to the point of where you can tighten it enough to crack the bung...which is a non-recoverable error. I'd use Permatex Indian Head shellac if you feel you need to, but the only time I've had to use that is if the lantern had been misclocked. Coleman factory used Gasolia as their sealant.

 

If it was hard (although hard is a very relative term) you may have gone one turn past the original position. I use the collar as a height gauge if I forget to count the threads above the bung before removal.