Tilley X24B was fine, now not burning correctly = help please.

I'll try to be brief.
I have had this Tilley 246B for around 8 years.
Never had an issue with it.
Over the years I have fitted new genuine Tilley 164X mantels in the past, as and when required, with no real problems.

A few weeks ago I did have an issue where the top jet kept getting blocked (a "hot re-start" with the pricker used to fix it, for a while).
I stripped it and found the main vaporiser tube badly coked up.
I bought a new one (with the pricker installed) - I got the correct 5" one.
I fitted a new genuine 164X mantel.

On firing it up, it never got properly "white" - it was very yellow and had yellow flames licking around the outside of the mantel.
The pressure seemed fine and when testing cold, a nice steady stream of paraffin came out to a good height from the jet.

I stripped it again, checked it, all seemed OK.
I fitted another genuine 164X mantel, but it was just the same.

I did note that the mantels I had (in proper Tilley packets) seemed VERY tight to get over the spigots, bot top and bottom. Not sure if this is relevant.

I am reluctant to just order more mantels, only to find the same issue.

My fuel is clean and from the same (well sealed) can that worked fine a few weeks ago.

Anyone got any thoughts on what is going on here?

 

The new Tilley vapourisers and mantles are of poor quality and it sounds like the jet on your new vapouriser is enlarged, I always try to obtain unused old stock parts.

 

Classic symptoms of overfueling which in this case is most probably caused by an oversized orifice at the tip of the vapouriser.

Sadly, this problem is so common, it is considered (by many) to be the norm. Most, if not all things Tilley are outsourced and sadly there seems to be no quality control at the place of manufacture so in spite of your vapouriser being new, it's useless. Your alternatives are a) send it back or b) try peining the end.

If the end looks something like this . . .


Take out the cleaning wire, turn the vapouriser upside down and drop it vertically from a height of 100 - 110mm onto a smooth, flat hard surface e.g. a vice. Do this twice.


Check that the cleaning needle still shows through the jet. Test the vapouriser in a lamp. If it still behaves the same, repeat the process but only drop it once before checking that the needle clears the jet. It takes time and it may not work but at least you'll have given it a shot.

 

Hi there
If you got the vapouriser new from Tilley it may be that there is a fault with it.. quite a few folk have had different problems with them
I wouldn’t hesitate to ring them and their customer service is good
They should send you another straight away
Good luck and hope you get sorted

ps they may ask you to return the faulty one

edit; crossed with Henry

 

I forgot to mention, save yourself money by not replaceing the mantles unless they have holes. Any soot deposits will burn off once a correctly functioning vapouriser is fitted.

 

Thank you VERY much for the input folks

I had suspected over-fueling as the symptoms pointed to an incorrect mixture (I know a bit obout fuel mixtures from many years of model aeroplane engines as a hobby).

I will get in touch by phone to Tilley International (Paraffin pressure lamp spare parts) where I bought both the mantels (who's holes were too small) and the vaporiser tube (who's hole is too large !!)

I do find it very sad that a product that used to have "British quality" inherent in it's design and spec, has now fallen victim of cheap (probably Chinese) rubbish quality control.

In the meantime, I might try peining the tip as Henry mentions (thanks Henry for the info and the pictures of "how to" )

 

An update =

I rang Tilley International (01483 579243) and the person (Lynne) was very helpful (as PD said they would be).

She tells me the metal parts (including my suspect vaporiser tube) are actually made "in house" by themselves, the the original Tilley specs.

She agreed that my symptoms are of a poor tolerance to the top jet on the tube.

She said to just send it back and they will swap it for a new (but tested good) one and they will chuck in a couple of mantels to cover post and hassle.

So, pretty good so far, I will report back as to whether it all turns out well.

PS, I didn't want to try the "re peining" method Henry mentioned as I don't trust myself to get it "just right" and then if I did send it back after attempting (and possibly failing) to correct it, they might not be so keen to replace it.