Hi. I have a Ditmar Maxim 593 under restoration. It seems to be rather uncommon? I find few references to it (one in the fettling forum). It seems to be a low budget lamp, with galvanized steel tank, and all other parts in steel, no brass except the U-shaped tube on top. Also, the top «hat» is a very simple one - see pictures. There are no markings on the lamp except «Maxim type 593» on the lower cage ring, and «DITMAR» on the ceramic base for the mantel. This lamp has a history. It it probably brought here by German/Austrian troops during WW2, they appeared here in the Narvik region in large numbers. The lamp was later used by a lokal fisherman in his fishing vessel for decades. The salty, moist air is probably the reason for the miserable, rusty state when I got it. I consider spraying the top parts in heat resistant silver paint to protect from future rust. Better ideas? The glass has a crack from top to bittom, but is still in one piece. It is discolored in red for some reason and also has a dent where heat seems to have been extra high. Any chance to find such a glass for sale? Hight 98mm, diameter 74 mm. Any more of this type «out there»?
BTW - How is the procedure to preheat this lamp ? I see no container for alcohol, which I assume is used like with similar lamps?
Håvard Neil McRae has this lantern listed in the Pressure Lamp Catalogue as a 100cp gasoline lantern. I know no more about the model than Neil’s listing. Best regards Tony
Hello @Håvard Kvernelv This is a small 100 CP gasoline/petrol lantern from Austria, and unfortunately the enamelled hood is missing. Instead, the inner chimney seems to have been equipped with a hand made top cap by a previous owner. In complete condition it should look similar to this no. 585 (for kerosene/paraffin, which has a preheater cup). Due to gasoline/petrol operation there is no preheating cup at yours. According to the original instructions, these lanterns are preheated with a flat asbestos wick in a metal sleeve with a slide, which is first soaked with a little gasoline in the tank, lit, and then inserted into the bottom of the globe cage from the lid and held near the vaporizer. The small metal plate at the top of the vaporizer helps direct the flame to the gas tip. You can try to light this lantern with a propane/butane torch whose flame is directed towards the vaporizer through the lid. The additional plate above the central screw serves as a heat shield for safety reasons in case the mantle is broken and the burner's Bunsen flame is directed at the tank. This causes a hazard especially with gasoline/petrol operation, and is not needed for the kerosene/paraffin versions. For the gasoline/petrol versions the tank cap also has no air release screw. The handwheel operates both the nozzle cleaning needle and a positive shut-off valve in the lower part of the vaporizer, which is screwed into the tank. So before preheating, the valve must be closed and the tank pressurized. The lower and upper parts of the vaporizer are sealed with an aluminum washer, under which there is a small spring. This pushes the needle bar down and thus pulls the needle out of the orifice of the gas tip. Based on the reddish hard rubber handwheel, I suspect it dates from before 1943 when production ceased. Post-WWII versions have a Bakelite handwheel, as can be seen on my 585. Good look with your restoration!
Thanks a lot @Martin K. - this answers several questions - I didn’t think it could be for gasoline, but now I know! Great operating instructions, too! Regarding the missing enamel hood - given the history of the lamp, this is how it will remain after restoration. It seems like I can use a Petromax 150 CP glass, the size seems to be close enough to fit. Given the crack in my (original?) glass, I am reluctant to fire it up, even more so when I learn that it runs on gasoline.
The modern 150 CP glass size fits this lantern without problems. Maybe you can even buy one with a hole which makes lighting easier. Those are sold from time to time.
Which top parts are you referring to? The hood? Inner or outer one? Or perhaps the frame? The paint won't hold very long on the hood, regardless of whether its the inner or outer one. The temperature range over there is a little beyond the comfort zone for paints. Vitreous enamels would still be the preferred choice if you could get it done. Chrome-nickel plating would also be pretty heat-resistant if its within your means. Of course, there are other more complicated, high performance stuffs like thermal sprays and pvd coatings with ceramic powders but these are usually beyond the means of non-industrial setups. No problem having the high-temp silver paint on the frame though. You can still give the hoods a shot with high temperature aluminium paint. No permanent harm. Its still considerably better than bare steel alone.
Hello @Sergei , welcome, Please use english so we all know what you mean. Seems you have a nice Ditmar.
Hi @Sergei and welcome ! If you wanted to take more detailed pictures of your lovely lantern and post them in the gallery you would make us all very happy
