I'm searching the forum and internet to gather what info I can. Thanks to the folks of this group, I picked up a Coleman 222 with the 3-position knob a couple months ago. I've played with it some and find a few things: - It can be hard to light - The light output can fluctuate a little - White coating on the threaded pieces (see pic) When I pump it up and turn the knob to the "Light" detent, I hear pressure releasing but no fuel sputtering. Only when I play with the knob back and forth will I start to hear a sputter and can try to light it. If I do get it lit, the light output fluctuates. It is not dramatic, but feel it is related to what I'm hearing in the lighting scenario. Then there is the white coating. Is that normal? I've never had one of these apart, so I wanted to get some insight before I do exploratory surgery. I read that the O-rings on the valve are a problem; one write-up I read suggested that they be replaced if you ever acquire one of these lanterns. I do not have any issues with fuel leaking, which I guess is a common complaint and due to bad O-rings, but don't know if they could be related to my lighting issue. I bumped the mantle and damaged it so I'm in a good place to work on it. Where would you start? Thanks!
I would clean the generator and see if that helps first. If no joy I would take it apart and clean the valve and fuel uptake paying attention to the very small hole at the bottom - and as you are there replace the o-rings anyway. The white stuff is just the thread sealant and the rest of the lantern looks to be in good condition. Also make sure the air inlets are clear.
So this is what the generator looks like (see pic). It appears that I have an "early 222" and found that I am able to disassemble the generator. The needle looks fine. I can see through the cardboard tube, the spring, governor body, and the tip just fine. Once unscrewed, the assembly easily came apart. Seems that I need to keep going deeper?
Decided to answer my own question...I went deeper and found this. The hole at the end looked okay, but I don't like that corrosion just below the threads. Should the brass lower section be able to unscrew from the aluminum piece?
No. It is one piece and is not designed to be serviceable. The lower brass tube is the fuel/air tube. You might want to clean the corrosion and blow air into through it. There probably is a small hole near the top to introduce some air into fuel stream. Soaking it in some vinegar might remove some of the corrosion internally. The white material on the threads is the thread sealant used by Coleman on this model. Your fount should be full of Coleman fuel when you light these.
Also, the tip cleaner appears to be missing it's tiny wire tip. If it is there, I don't see it in the photo.
I just finally came across this thread: Coleman Peak 1 222 F/A tube. Are you certain the F/A tube cannot be removed? From that thread, it appears that it can, but I'm aware there were early and late models of the 222, and 2-position and 3-position valves. Mine seems to be an early model with 3-position knob. Supposedly people replace the o-rings in these.
Check that the jet (hole) in the nipple (tip) is clear. As said by @bluepen61, your pricker doesn't seem to have a pricker wire at the top. Tony
The pricker is there...and the hole is clear. Pricker is too small for my camera to pick up clearly. Based on the corrosion I found, I'm suspecting the F/A tube.
The brass F/A tube will separate from the aluminum valve body. Use a tooth pick to clean the pickup orfice.
Could just be corrosion inside the FA tube. That generator is not available anymore, as they now use a later design that isnt as efficient with Coleman fuel. These are not that user freindly IMO. Need pumping a lot, and flicker. Need at least half a tank to run right to start.
Yes as Toby says the brass FA tube can be separated from the aluminum valve body. You may need to heat it up with flame from a propane torch to make it easier to separate. While you have it apart it's probably wise to install new o-rings. The o-ring behind the valve wheel is a 009. The one in the FA tube is a 005 or 007. I have documentation in my garage which tells me which one it should be. I can check that for you. I always use viton replacement o-rings.
I was able to get the F/A tube separated and gain access to the o-ring. The internal rod and passage looked very clean. I ordered new o-rings from OldColemanParts that are out for delivery today. I meant to post this earlier...is this rust in tank, or a coating? (see pic). I have not tried to poke or scrape at it. Thanks for all the guidance so far! I hope to have this running again this weekend.
As a follow-up, I have read that some of the Coleman tanks up into the 80s had a rust colored coating to prevent rust. Not sure why they choose that color; makes it hard to discern coating from rust. It does look too uniform and smooth to be corrosion, which is why I haven't gone poking at it.
