I recently aquired a Coleman lamp #117. The green colac was removed. Does anyone know the process that this paint is applied?. It is just brass now with the exception of the wooden handle. Thanks, Mike
If anyone knows how this paint surface was achieved I'd definitely like to know. Are there any manufacturers still making this kind of paint?
There are different types of crackle and wrinkle paint available It may be possible to get an exact match for what you want but that may involve speaking to a paint or automotive specialist? Alternatively, you may find the finish you want in a basic colour e.g. black.. then be able to spray it the colour you need ? There may be threads on this subject already on other Coleman forums, perhaps??
My understanding is that the crackled paint effect was achieved by applying the final colour over a special, still wet undercoat that was of a different consistency. As the undercoat dried it stretched and cracked the overcoat to make the crackles. There are DIY articles on the internet about “antiquing” furniture to look crackled. The issue is going to be finding the right paint(s) for metal and that will withstand fuel spillage. There is also a difference between getting a crinkled finish and a crackled finish. I think I’d be heading to a professional paint maker’s workshop to get advice. Cheers Tony
Ok, I had a look on ebay earlier and took a screenshot but it won’t let me load it.. I’ll try and get the number but why do they always hide it?
Well, I’ve just bought some of the Montana green and a fetching brown I may get some plastikote gold to complete the set
There are two different forms of crackle finish. This is one for sure but there is another that was used on a great deal of post war electrical equipment, usually the metal cases. It was almost always green and the surface was very slightly rough. I really wish I could find this second type of crackle finish but my guess is, it used some ingredient that is now banned, maybe lead perhaps.
@ColinG Do you mean hammer paint (or hammertone paint)? I know it from lots of devices made in the 1950's to 1960's, but mostly in light blue / green / grey, or aluminium silver. Lead has been banned by prohibiting the use of antirust coating / rustproof primer paints such as Lead Red, containing Lead(II,IV) oxide.
This isn't Crackle paint. @ColinG Wrinkle paint I found this a couple of years ago but haven't got around to trying it, so I can't vouch for it's result. Also the information is a little short on quantity details. How to make wrinkle paint June 21, 2018 A. This has been solved … If you want a wrinkle paint and you want it to look like the brown tool box we all know and love (no names), simply add a mix in some boiled linseed oil and a little tung oil. Then add some japan dryer to the mix and I add about 2-1/4 shot glass to a 1/2 qt of what I mix up. Then (I live in Vegas) if small enough part I'll hang it in the sun. Most times I spray down my slab the dust is not bad and spray it. Let settle; it won't take but one good coat, heavy like a primer -- and don't touch it, let it soak in the sun as long as possible. This takes a few days to start drying. You can start seeing wrinkles in a few hrs but they don't get tight like we seen in the old tool box paint until a few days in the drying. And when it does cure and finish hardening it's some great tough paint I mixed with rust paint we all have used and know but no names again. Play with said mixture for your liking. This was after a few dozen attempts with other additives, lacquer and enamel which failed to imitate what I was matching and just Tung oil. Had some luck but the boiled linseed, Tung and jap dryer mixed like the punch at the New Years party we don't remember how we made it home from (strong jap dryer) worked and has for several overhauled boxes. FYI Paint & Varnish Drier ADDITIVE TO IMPROVE DRYING TIMES *Previously known as Terebine or Japan Dryer
