Finally decided to have a go at fettling this AL620 that I got a while back but unfortunately it failed the dunk test All seals were leaking so I replaced them and tried again but a previously unseen leak had appeared (see pic below) I don’t think the leak was coming from the threads where the fuel pipe screws in (I think it screws in ) but from between the boss and tank. I assume this fitting is soldered and so the way to repair the leak will be to solder around the fitting.
I have taken an AL15 apart, which has a similar feed tube. Assuming the AL620 is the same, there is a nut inside the tank holding the fuel tube in place. So the tube should not fall out altogether when you try to remake the solder joint.
Thanks for the replies gents. The problem I have is that I have never done any soldering and don’t have the means to do any. My inclination at the moment is to see if someone more competent than me would be interested in a deal
You will probably get away with getting the area hot enough to melt the existing solder and then take away the heat but clean the area back to brass and wash out the inside with acetone or plenty of detergent to remove any fuel residue first.
Being able to solder is certainly an advantage and learning isn't actually too difficult. In my own case, lack of confidence was by far the biggest hurdle I faced but once I'd got over it, I've never looked back. Admittedly my first few attempts, though sound enough, weren't particularly neat but finesse comes with practice and I found myself soldering all sorts of bits of scrap brass and copper that were laying around the shed to improve my technique.
Had an AL21 with same problem. Soldered it and it worked ok but wasn't as neat as some earlier soldering. On such a nice piece I'd try to find a good solderer to help. If you do do it yourself, use small flux filled solder with a low melting point and I prefer sulphuric acid carefully applied around the side that is leaking after first scrupulously cleaning the area to be soldered. Apply the heat just close and the solder should run easily around the leak area. Dab more solder to get a smooth finish. The torch @Henry Plews has shown is the type to use; not a soldering iron. Good luck.
@stuartc , have faith in your self, follow @Henry Plews directions, and @Sedgman , some good sound advice, and practice on something so you can see how the soldering works. @Ian Bingham has knowledge of what’s inside and how things are made.
Definitely an issue for me Henry as I’ve never done any soldering. This is certainly something I am taking into account. I don’t think this is the piece to be breaking my duck. Thanks for the encouragement Darryl. I think I will get some scrap pieces of metal and start practicing and see how it goes
I find tin lead solder and copper plumbers type soldering iron is excellent as it prevents possible overheating of a direct flame ( solder flows well if surfaces are very clean) Try some practice on clean scraps of copper brass + tin to get some feel for it.
I tried all sorts of alternative repairs to avoid soldering when I first came across a similar issue and in the end I wished I’d just gone straight for the soldering as it was easier than I expected. Neat comes with practice but a serviceable repair is probably easier than you think. Stick with it!
